Pictures of Clear Coat Failure

JasonD

New member
This is for everyone wondering what this looks like. If your hood looks like this, then you have been plagued with cc failure.









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In your other thread, scottwax mentioned that this was lacquer checking - is there a correlation between lacquer checking and clearcoat failure? I was always under the impression that clearcoat failure = your clearcoat peeling off :confused:
 
bunmango said:
In your other thread, scottwax mentioned that this was lacquer checking - is there a correlation between lacquer checking and clearcoat failure? I was always under the impression that clearcoat failure = your clearcoat peeling off :confused:



Clear Coat Failure - Lacquer Checking, same thing. Lacquer checking leads to cc failure and eventual cc peeling or not, depending on the situation. Now, I'm not a body shop guy so this is my speculation but it's how I understand it. If anyone else has more knowledge in this area, feel free to chime in.
 
It's basically a matter of terminology and degrees of failure. The pictures that Jason posted are indeed examples of "early" clear coat failure, which will eventually lead to the type of "total" clear coat failure you're thinking of.



The term "lacquer checking" comes from the old lacquer paints and finishes used years ago. When these paints and finishes started to fail you'd see "crazing" or "checking". You'll also see it on lacquer furniture finishes and even on musical instruments. It's just an old term that closely describes the look of Jason's early stage clear coat failure.



Think of the cars you see that have "total" cc failure in large spots. Most look like the closest they've gotten to a jar of wax was in a Wal-Mart parking lot 15 years ago! Granted some manufacturers put out paint finishes with problems that failed too early, but I'd like to think that if properly maintained they would have lasted longer. Hopefully Jason will be able to delay the time before the clear totally fails by sealing/waxing. He has certainly improved the appearance!



If you want to see some pics of really bad cc failure check out this link:



http://www.autoint.com/tips/check_crack_degradation.php
 
I hate to admit it, but my car has the same problem. :( Its up over 150,000 miles, so if I get anothe 50K miles out of it before the paint falls off, I will be a happy with it.
 
how would you go about correcting this? or at least delaying complete failure and minimizing the looks of it. i'm afriad i have very early onset cc failure? are there any specific products or is it a wet sand job?
 
LostSheepSquad said:
how would you go about correcting this? or at least delaying complete failure and minimizing the looks of it. i'm afriad i have very early onset cc failure? are there any specific products or is it a wet sand job?



There's no correcting this, but you can certainly slow it down and make it look better. Here's a link to the thread I posted fixing this as best as I could: http://autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=47725
 
My dad's old Lincold Town Car's was like that but they where verticle little scratches. Look like it drove threw a brillo pad.
 
That type of crazing can be caused by a few things, notably;



Excessive film build (too much paint) on cars that have been repainted either too many times, or sprayed too thickly when repainted. This of course doesn't apply to original paint, generally at least.





Repainting over a panel(s) that is too cold ( below 50 deg.) , and / or flash times insufficient for the temps.



Another possible cause- Thremal stressing of the clear. Hot water on very cold sheet metal can sometimes do it. Doesn't show up right away, may take months.



Lacquer thinner can also check *some* paints, including clear. Not every brand paint in every case, but it happens. Looks a bit different than what is seen in that pic.

though.



Seen it in my work occasionally, and having a long background in automotive painting I know what to watch out for. The bad thing is that you can't paint over it, it has to come off. I wouldn't even trust an epoxy surfacer first ( but that's me- others may disagree). Strip, start over is safest. :)
 
The last 2 used Sonoma's or S-10's we had on the lot had some degree of this. The paint was nice otherwise but with a polish and wax it really showed.
 
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