PFM Drying Towel(s) and using Bead Maker as a drying aid

[Scott In TX]

I have found a new love and it`s this combo of the PFM and Beadmaker sprayed about as drying aid.
I`ve found that it makes the white paint on both of my white cars really glow.

It seems almost better than when I`d used BM as a stand alone and dry.

My question: do I need to worry about how it will affect the PFM towels over time? If I wash them properly, is there a concern of losing performance or becoming hydrophobic when using them with Beadmaker?

 

[acuRAS82]

My question: do I need to worry about how it will affect the PFM towels over time? If I wash them properly, is there a concern of losing performance or becoming hydrophobic when using them with Beadmaker?

I don’t know the answer first hand, as I’m afraid to use my PFMs when any kind of drying aid. Is being used. So I save my lessers towels for drying aids which makes the drying aid experience not as great as it could be. Another user mentioned the other day that he uses his older 16x16 drying PFMs with drying aids and didn’t mention them becoming hydrophobic.

Have you experienced any drying performance issues / hydrophobicity? If you haven’t seen issues yet and have been doing this for awhile with BM, I would just keep washing the way you have been. Sounds like it’s working. BTW, what cleaner do you use, and do you pre-soak in a bucket after using?

 

[KBsToy]

Lately I have found that some of my sucker jr towels are pushing water around and not doing a good job of drying. I use these towels with BM as a drying aid.

We have a red and silver car and just being a weekend warrior I think this process works great for me. I think the cars have a nice shine and slickness.
My towels are about 6 months old and I try to wash our cars weekly with BM as drying aid.

Towels don`t get presoak but do get washed in a dedicated MF wash soap.

 

[gorram]

I was using that exact setup for a while more or less trying to go through a remaining gallon of Beadmaker. I have 5 or 6 PFMs and it wasn`t like I was purposefully rotating them. I have started to see some reduced performance in some of them. These were used primarily when I was visiting my Mom so the towels weren`t getting washed for several hours until I returned home but were washed with dedicated MF wash. They still pickup a ton of water but they need to be primed with water a little more than in the past.

On Griot`s site they are selling a 10 pack of PFMs that have a little less GSM. I`ve only just received them but they seem to be constructed the same as the original 16x16. Only used once so far but they perform just as well.

 

[Accumulator]

I have found a new love and it`s this combo of the PFM and Beadmaker sprayed about as drying aid....My question: do I need to worry about how it will affect the PFM towels over time? If I wash them properly, is there a concern of losing performance or becoming hydrophobic when using them with Beadmaker?

Welcome to Auopia!

Noting that I don`t use either Beadmaker or PFM Drying Towels..IMO it`ll be all about how well you launder them.

I do use SprayWaxes/etc. as Drying Aids, and I use them with plush MF Drying Towels that aren`t all that different from PFMs. I`ve been doing this for years now, ever since the *plush* ones came out as alternatives to WaffleWeave MF Drying Towels. Like you, I`m very happy with how the combo works.

So far, all those MFs still soak up water just as well as they ever did, zero change in performance. (Which is more than I can say about any of my WWMFs, which always, eventually, became less effective whether used "clean" or with a Drying Aid.) I don`t even make a point of washing them immediately after use; the SprayWaxes/etc. will often dry on them and stay that way for days until I finally launder them. I don`t pre-soak/spot unless they get badly soiled (by some residual dirt..gotta watch that!) or something else makes me think I should (not common). This approach works fine for me, although I wouldn`t recommend being so lax about it until/unless you know it`ll work for you.

FWIW, I wash in very hot water (often using the "Sanitize"cycle), with a dedicated MF detergent (note that some are so harsh that the MF vendors/makers say to avoid them, so shop carefully), occasional White Vinegar rinses, and I keep on rinsing until there is zero sudsing (and often do another clear-water rinse even after that). I then dry `em until they are fully dry, in the dryer on a lower temp. setting. Since my plush MFs stay nice for years and years (still using many from the `90s), I`m confident that this approach is both effective and sufficiently gentle.

Now, to possibly render all the above moot.....

BUT- Gee, look at what`s going on with KBs Toy and Gorram! They *are* using the exact same combo as you are, and they`re noticing diminished performance! Maybe it`s just their laundering, maybe it`s the BM...but, it`s happening to them. So maybe that BM at least requires some kind of really intensive laundering...or maybe it`s just gonna cause a slow death of the PFMs, forcing you to do a cost/benefit analysis.

 

[Coatings=crack]

I agree with accumulator on washing. Those with diminished performance try Washing in “hot” not medium or cold. I use griots which the recommend 50/50 with a free and clear detergent. I use drying aids and my year old PFM’s seam fine. The heat hasn’t affected my towels one bit. I also let my towels accumulate till i have a full load.




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[Scott In TX]

Thanks guys. I haven`t been soaking the towel after use, but probably will from now on.
I`ve been doing this for about a month so maybe only 4-6 times have I used my PFM and Beadmaker. So far, no change in the towel performance.
I like the results so much, I`m going to continue and if the towels stop working as well, I will get new ones. It`s worth it I think even though they`re not cheap.

 

[acuRAS82]

I just ordered the 10 pack of 860 gsm 16x16s after reading this thread. Those will be my drying aid PFM experiments.

I wash in “Warm” water which turns out to be pretty hot in my washer. I pre-soak WW, RW and wax/spray towels right after use, then rinse with water and put them in the hamper after drying. I’ve upgraded to better MF detergent which is a glaring improvement. I’m generally pleased with how my towels come out nowadays... but there are some old ones that don’t dry well anymore (waffles and no-name microfiber drying towels). I probably didn’t soak those back in the day though, maybe washed in cold too, used “soapier” MF detergent.

Regardless, it’s because of the old towels poor performance why I’m terrified of using expensive PFMs with anything gloss/protection related, despite being a better washer now. Perhaps using the “Hot” setting is the final step I need to ensure give me enough piece of mind to use my good towels for better uses.

 

[Coatings=crack]

I just ordered the 10 pack of 860 gsm 16x16s after reading this thread. Those will be my drying aid PFM experiments.

I wash in “Warm” water which turns out to be pretty hot in my washer. I pre-soak WW, RW and wax/spray towels right after use, then rinse with water and put them in the hamper after drying. I’ve upgraded to better MF detergent which is a glaring improvement. I’m generally pleased with how my towels come out nowadays... but there are some old ones that don’t dry well anymore (waffles and no-name microfiber drying towels). I probably didn’t soak those back in the day though, maybe washed in cold too, used “soapier” MF detergent.

Regardless, it’s because of the old towels poor performance why I’m terrified of using expensive PFMs with anything gloss/protection related, despite being a better washer now. Perhaps using the “Hot” setting is the final step I need to ensure give me enough piece of mind to use my good towels for better uses.

I use hot only if towels have come into contact with LSP’s. With coating the master blaster sidecick gets 95% of water


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[gorram]

I`m probably embellishing that Beadmaker has reduced performance, if any it is negligible. I`ve used other products that could have contributed too though I was laying the BM on thick more or less to run the gallon out. I`d be more willing to believe that residue left from the detergent used to wash clothes either in the washer or dryer could be as likely responsible.

I`ve never seen any improved benefit from washing in warm or hot water either. I`ve generally switched to cold washing anyway since I got a tankless water heater.

Not sure if I`ve seen it on AG or elsewhere but I recall others mention reduced performance in PFMs too for whatever the reason was.

 

[Accumulator]

I’ve upgraded to better MF detergent which is a glaring improvement.

The YMMV-factor is really something on this particular topic! Some do fine with any ol` detergent, but some of us have an opposite experience.

Perhaps using the “Hot” setting is the final step I need to ensure give me enough piece of mind to use my good towels for better uses.

Works for me

I`ve never seen any improved benefit from washing in warm or hot water either.

That really surprises me, but there`s that YMMV-factor again When my MFs need extra attention, I do the Sanitize cycle and it solves most problems like magic. But hey, if what you`re doing works, then there you go!

I`ve generally switched to cold washing anyway since I got a tankless water heater.

Heh heh, and *that* really surprises me even more! I`d have thought the tankless would lead to doing more on "hot".

 

[gorram]

That really surprises me, but there`s that YMMV-factor again When my MFs need extra attention, I do the Sanitize cycle and it solves most problems like magic. But hey, if what you`re doing works, then there you go!

Heh heh, and *that* really surprises me even more! I`d have thought the tankless would lead to doing more on "hot".

The washer is on the far end of the plumbing and when I wash a load of detailing stuff it probably wouldn`t reach hot until it was nearly full since it would be on a small load. I`ve just never had a need I guess with washing them on hot. Most of my detailing wash is from car shampoo or rinseless wash so not much need to get any grime out. I never liked to wash anything filthy with the good MFs and mitts so I tend to use cheaper rags that I can toss or for nicer rags I`ll throw them in a pad cleaner type solution.

Tankless heater is great but there can be a bit of delay depending on how much cold water it`s got to push out of the way. Some give them the nickname of "on demand" or "instant" hot water where it is really more of an unlimited hot water supply.

 

[Coatings=crack]

I`m probably embellishing that Beadmaker has reduced performance, if any it is negligible. I`ve used other products that could have contributed too though I was laying the BM on thick more or less to run the gallon out. I`d be more willing to believe that residue left from the detergent used to wash clothes either in the washer or dryer could be as likely responsible.

I`ve never seen any improved benefit from washing in warm or hot water either. I`ve generally switched to cold washing anyway since I got a tankless water heater.

Not sure if I`ve seen it on AG or elsewhere but I recall others mention reduced performance in PFMs too for whatever the reason was.

I doubt it’s left over detergent more than the water resistant sealant your wiping/spraying directly into towel. The only reason i switched is MF detergent has left my towels softer.

Their are articles (ilI believe i read on Adams) that when MF loose performance you can boil them. I believe this is to help liquify the sealants/wax and remove them. I’d recommend trying on your chipmunks as Hot water definitely helped my PFM’s when i felt rhey were slowing


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[Billy Jack]

Personally, I don`t see the need for a towel like the PFM when using a drying aid. I use Beadmaker, D156 and Aquawax often. I`ll use a plush MF, such as a TRC Eagle for a preliminary wipe, wringing out as I go. I`ll then apply the spray product and use another similar plush MF to spread and complete. It requires one more lap around the car, but then there`s no chance of contaminating my premium drying towels. I`ve seen too many comments about reduced performance to even attempt it, so I bring out the PFM`s only when I`m not using a drying aid.

Bill

 

[Accumulator]

gorram- Ah, OK..now I see, thanks for explaining. Makes me feel a little better about sticking with my old-tech water heaters. And now I see why my plumber was pitching all sorts of add-ons to go with a Tankless.

Coatings=crack- Yep, some of my MFs even came with instructions to boil `em before the first use (which I didn`t do).

Billy Jack- I can get away with that for most of the work as long as I do indeed blow the water off really well. I need to use a real Drying Towel for some of it anyhow, but it doesn`t get so soaked with Drying Aid. Now I`m wondering whether I should just do it this way, or at least do it more often...but I gotta say that my Dry Me Crazy MFs do the "buff off SprayWax" thing better than any of my other MFs anyhow, even if it`s not always a huge diff. Heh heh, hope I`m not posting back later saying I should`ve changed my ways...

 

[Coatings=crack]

Ammo Hydrate with a PFM is a whole nother experience when drying the car. It ‘s great when using a different towel and Hydrate or the PFM with another drying aid.

The feel i get drying the combo and how, as i perceive, the hydrate actually helps it suck up more water. Its just awesome.... 2 products that will always be in my arsenal.

My thinking is i use 2 16x16 for usually $15. They are going strong into year two. If i can get just 2 years of that experience using Hydrate then thats $7.50 per year more than enough return on my investment. I’ll probably have longer than that....


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[kjeeper]

Not the PFM but similar, Mckees Glacier 16x16. Was using OG’s preferred FTW with Opti seal, CS3 or Beadmaker.. until buying and using the Glacier. The longer twist loop strands glide across the paint really smooth. FTW’s demoted to jams lol

 

[estcstm3]

Not the PFM but similar, Mckees Glacier 16x16. Was using OG’s preferred FTW with Opti seal, CS3 or Beadmaker.. until buying and using the Glacier. The longer twist loop strands glide across the paint really smooth. FTW’s demoted to jams lol

Did you ever compare PFM to the glacier? The price has me intrested in glacier?

 

[Lonnie]

So the consensus is:
1) Use a PFM towel for drying the initial rinse water
2) Use a separate drying towel for use with Bead Maker as a drying agent
3a) Wash them in HOT water
3b) Wash the Bead Maker-impregnated microfiber drying towels separately to avoid cross-contamination (Might be a bit overboard, and hence an optional consideration)
4) What you use as a detergent does make a difference in how clean they get. Suggested to use a microfiber-specific cleaning detergent.
5) Use vinegar in the rinse first cycle (you ARE using a two-step rinse cycle!?) to soften them
6) Dry on lower heat without fabric sheets (I do air dry outside on a clothes line, BUT only on windier days AND when no one is cutting the lawns OR if there is NO cottonwood dander, pollen, or leaf debris floating in the air)

 

[Accumulator]

Lonnie- The only thing on your list that makes me wonder is "3b", and that only because I dunno whether the "laundered-out" BM will act different from, uhm....other laundered-out stuff like Polishes/dirt/whatever.

And of course I dry everything in the Dryer, but hey, that`s just me...