Personal LSP testing! [845, 476, OOS, OCW, WDGPS3.0]

boywonder

New member
Vehicle: My Pastor's 2000 Chrysler Concorde



Since the day was nice in Chicago, I figured I would take advantage by giving Maxine a much needed bath. I was going to do my father's Navigator but the truck didn't sit still long enough for me to wash it. :mad:



At any rate, I promised my pastor I would wash her 2000 Concorde (silver) and use a few autopian tricks on it.



Let me give you a rundown. The vehicle is kpet outdoors with trees in close proximity to it. Also, her car goes through a construction zone (One that rivals my construction zone on I-294 in length) and is parked in the vicinity of railroad tracks. She also would take her car to the automatic car wash and/or the nearest Blast-O-Matic to clean it. The inside windows were pretty dirty due to cookie crumblers.



This was the plan of attack.



a) Went over car with EF Tar Remover. I got rid of tar and tree sap.



b) Washed car with Dawn to remove waxes. I also used EF HI for the wheels and tires. I bought a Viking tire brush (:D) as well as a Viking Chenille Wash Mitt (:D) and an Absorber (:(). I also used my California Water Blade.



c) Clayed the car with my Mother's Clay Bar. I might have to buy some Pinnacle Poly Clay for the navigator as the Mother's bar has almost been rendered useless.



d) I managed to get 1/2 of the car treated with Meguiar's #9, AIO, and KSG before dark. I wanted to get in before it got too dark because we heard gunshots around my neck of the woods the night before.



e) Since she has a wood dash, I decided against using my diluted HI and just wiped it down with water. However, the windows were the real bear. I used my alcohol-20/20 mixture 2x on the front Windshield and it still was not clean to my satisfaction.

The rear window.....let's not go there. But I spent 30 minutes on the rear window and it was STILL streaky.:mad: I did not treat the dash with Vinylex. I treated the tires and brought the car back to her. I also vacuumed the interior with my Shop Vac (Writing this post reminded me that I need to clean out my vacuum and check the filter.)



Did I charge her? No. She did offer to pay, though. All of the work I did took me more than 3 hrs. The next time I get my hands on that car(maybe Thursday), I am going to AIO and KSG it .



I would do it this Saturday but yours truly will be at a U of I football game. :D
 
see...people dont realize how dangerous detailing can be....threatening emails to people....gun shots...kicking tires while the car is up on jack stands...tennis balls coming at you...arthritic fingers all the time...scrapes and cuts(if you detail your Bimmers wheels..:D )...what went wrong with the absorber...i noticed the frown there but you didnt mention it....



ps....maybe he'll mention you at next w/e's service....

pps...what up with your pops Navigator....he always cuts out on you before you get a chance to attack it.....lucky you actually:)



and i thought the Bronx was bad...:D
 
Good idea, but, unfortunately, you cannot deduct services from your taxes (actually, that is not as unfair as one might think -- if the pastor paid Prinz, then Prinz would have taxable income. If Prinz then donated the $ to his pastor's church, he would have a write off. The write off would offset the income, the result being zero taxable income . . . whic is the same result as not being able to deduct the uncharged-for-labor, in the first place.)
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by bigboyhf [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>No charge? At least deduct it from your taxes....:rolleyes:

H [/b]</blockquote>
Can't do that anyway for the same reasons that darbh said. Also, I would not have felt right charging her since the car was not 100% to my satisfaction. I know I may seem a tad anal about this. However, I know the customer was satisfied but I was not and I do tend to be somewhat perfectionistic when cleaning a car. That's because I treat another's car like I would my own.

Everyone at church remarked on how clean the car was. Her youngest son who also has a Concorde rubbed the paint and remarked on how smooth it was.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by FLONI [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>see...people dont realize how dangerous detailing can be....threatening emails to people....gun shots...kicking tires while the car is up on jack stands...tennis balls coming at you...arthritic fingers all the time...scrapes and cuts(if you detail your Bimmers wheels..:D )...what went wrong with the absorber...i noticed the frown there but you didnt mention it....

ps....maybe he'll mention you at next w/e's service....
pps...what up with your pops Navigator....he always cuts out on you before you get a chance to attack it.....lucky you actually:)

and i thought the Bronx was bad...:D [/b]</blockquote>
a) The absorber dried nicely at first but over time, it was leaving water and would not wring out. I need to clean my absorber because of all the dirt accumulated.

b) My pastor is female

c) Another thing I think I might invest in is a microfiber mitt for window cleaning. I scraped a knuckle cleaning the rear window of the Concorde.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by PrinzII [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>a) The absorber dried nicely at first but over time, it was leaving water and would not wring out. I need to clean my absorber because of all the dirt accumulated.[/b]</blockquote>
My absorber works fine, though leaves microbeading that needs to be touched up with an MT. You may wish to wash the car better first...you shouldn't be getting any dirt on the absorber if you are using it for a final dry.

This is a great reason to make sure that you buy only light colored towels/absorbers for your paint so that you can see if there is anything harmful to your paint on it.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by puterbum [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>

My absorber works fine, though leaves microbeading that needs to be touched up with an MT. You may wish to wash the car better first...you shouldn't be getting any dirt on the absorber if you are using it for a final dry.

This is a great reason to make sure that you buy only light colored towels/absorbers for your paint so that you can see if there is anything harmful to your paint on it. [/b]</blockquote>
My absorber is light green. The dirt did not come from the Concorde, but my Maxima (used it to dry the Maxima and hit a few areas (e.g. Door Jambs, Gas Tank Door) which is how it got dirty in the first place). :D
 
You use your drying towel to clean door jams? I would defintely just use another cheap towel for that task. I would not make a habit of treating my Water Bandit like that buddy. Nothing but the paint finish on the exterior for me. Laters.
 
I have a growing collection of waxes and sealants [although small comparatively speaking]. I have only done detailing on my personal vehicles, but I am always looking to see how different products look on different finishes.

In this test, I have 5 of the Waxes/Sealants that I presently own being tested.

Collinite Insulator Wax No. 845


I find this wax to be extremely easy to apply. After I have owned it for nearly 6 months and kept it at room temperature and transfered it to my 8oz dispensing bottle, it has retained a warm butter consistency. It spread very easily and removal is quite easy as well. After 24 hours of application and spraying the surface, the water forms into small circular beads. When greater quantities of water is sprayed, the beads collide and run off leaving the surface almost completely bare, even without flooding. In comparison to the unprotected surface next to it, it is actually noticeably darker and deeper. Under the right conditions the difference could probably be caught in a picture.

Collinite Super Doublecoat Auto Wax No. 476S


This wax is very hard. Even being kept in warm storage the wax is still rock hard. After moving the foam applicator over the surface in swiping motions, the wax melts onto the pad and can be easily applied. Per the collinite website: "The 845 and 476s are made with the same ingredients, but the 476s lasts longer due to the fact that it has a higher concentration of natural and synthetic waxes. This is why the 476s is tougher to work with. The 845 has been Collinite?s overall best seller for 20 years due to the fact that it has excellent durability combined with an ease of use." This is exemplified through the use of both waxes. 476 is much harder to use in comparison to 845, but still not difficult. When spraying the surface, the water forms beads. Unlike 845, 476 likes to stay in beads instead of sheeting like 845 did when water was sprayed heavily on it.

Optimum Car Wax



An extremely user friendly wax, OCW can be applied by spraying the surface and wiping it off with a microfiber towel. The surface reminds me of a waxed, then QD'd finish. Because I have other waxes that are applied in a more traditional sense, I like to use OCW over existing waxes to boost the protection and looks. OCW creates beads on the surface which are a little larger than beads formed by the Collinite products. I am still testing the durability, but since i have began using it a month ago, the protection is still remaining.

Optimum Opti-Seal


Probably the easiest sealant to use. Just wipe on and walk away. It is hard to not use too much product with OOS. Just remove any excess OOS with a MF if you can see streaks. OOS creates uniform, larger beads that sheet off when on vertical or angled surfaces. I have not tested OOS without topping it with OCW, but I hope to see how the looks and performances differ.

Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0

I received this for free from a contest. It is considered a quality sealant and I am hoping to find out how well it performs. DGPS is a little harder to apply than the other waxes or sealants and a little harder to remove. In terms of ease, it was not as nice as the others. It did not sheet as well as OOS, but hopefully the durability will shine through. The beads on horizontal surfaces were fairly large as well.



Pictures

My entire truck had OCW on it from last months wash/wax. Still holding up on the drivers side door.
IMG_0478.jpg


Stripped the wax from the hood :biggrin:
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The surface was clayed a few months ago and has had an LSP on it since. To strip the wax, I used TW Liquid Clay bar [found it in the cabinets]. Then rinsed the surface and sprayed with a diluted degreaser and washed the surface with ONR to wash it all off. I then gave it an IPA wipedown before applying the waxes and sealants.

The 5 next to each other.
845, OOS, 476, DGPS, OCW
The outsides were split with the tape, the middle 3 were separated by the body lines
IMG_0479.jpg


This first shot has lightly misted water on the surface, you can see the differences in the products.
IMG_0481.jpg


Another similar shot with added contrast. It helped to define the different sections. There was more water added to the surface, enough so some surface began to run while other held the water.
IMG_0485b.jpg


Collinite 845
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Beads with beads of air in them? :huh:
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I hope to keep up with the testing to see which not only protects the longest, but retains it's slickness. Hope you enjoy it! :clap:
 
Subscribing. :D

Which seems to bead the most when first applied? Which seemed to bead the least?
 
Subscribing. :D

Which seems to bead the most when first applied? Which seemed to bead the least?

With first application, 476 beaded the best [uniformity] and held the beads. 845 was the slickest. It had small beads, and once the beads increased in size they couldn't stay on the paint and just slid off. I look forward to looking at the results shortly to see if anything has changed after the initial application.

Do you guys think I should let it go 1 week and reapply another coat to each respectively? Or just test out 1 coat?
 
Test one coat. :cornut:

OOS seemed to bead the least, but OCW sure looks darned good for a spray on wax!!
 
Time for an update. It has been a little over a week since the initial application. There is some serious distinction between some of the LSP's and some very interesting results between others.

Collinite Insulator Wax No. 845
Still maintaining it's place as my favorite in this contest. The beads look awesome, but it is by far the most repelling wax. By that, I mean water that is sprayed onto it does not cling and bead, but just does not stick. This is best illustrated by comparing it to 476. If you spray a strong "shower" onto the paint from 1 foot away at the 845, the paint is clear. The pressure pushes the water right off. If you do the same to 476, the water immediately beads and holds the beads. The pictures will help to illustrate this.

Collinite Super Doublecoat Auto Wax No. 476S
This wax is doing just as I thought it would. It bead's the best, but holds water the longest. I love the look of it, and as you blow air on the surface, the beads move off the finish, but just sprayed on, the water holds tight in beads. Again, shown in the following images.

Optimum Car Wax
Confusing. This wax is what my truck had on it before I stripped it. The areas where OCW remains on other panels is still holding up, but not as well as it was a month ago when it was applied. The OCW that was applied last week is sheeting the water. Compared to the Wolfgang sealant, I could not tell the difference between them. The picture somewhat illustrate my point. Definitely not a bad thing! The protection and slickness is holding up well, and I look forward to closely monitoring it.

Optimum Opti-Seal
This sealant sheets water incredibly well. In the images following, they illustrate the sheer slickness of this sealant. Nothing bad to say yet, water just doesn't stick to it!

Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0
It acts just like OOS, but collects a ton of dust. That was the only difference at this point. Also, as mentioned, OCW and this sealant look similar with the exception of the dust collecting.

Again, the order is
845, OOS, 476, DGPS, OCW respectively.

Initial spraydown and subsequent sheeting/beading forming in the next image.
IMG_0541.jpg


IMG_0542.jpg


476 and DGPS and OCW [no differences to the right of 476]
IMG_0548.jpg


More DGPS and OCW, continuous shot mode
IMG_0551.jpg

IMG_0552.jpg

IMG_0553.jpg

IMG_0554.jpg


And the 845 and OOS and 476 comparison. Look at the distinction in the 845 versus OOS and the tight 476S beads to the right. Shot in continuous drive, the pictures are < 3 seconds apart.

IMG_0560.jpg

IMG_0562.jpg

IMG_0566.jpg

IMG_0570.jpg

IMG_0574.jpg

IMG_0578.jpg

IMG_0582.jpg

IMG_0586.jpg

IMG_0588.jpg


Carry on :wizard:
 
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