Personal LSP testing! [845, 476, OOS, OCW, WDGPS3.0]

Scottwax said:
Heat affects all products, might as well make it as even as possible when testing.
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Well, logically speaking, if you are going to wax your car, you are going to wax the hood as well, so it would make the most sense to pick a product that was capable of standing up to a hot hood without breaking down. I think the list of products capable of doing that is probably pretty short-Collinite, JW/Klasse and Zaino come to mind but a few others may make the list. It would be best to ask the manufacturer if they have done heat testing and what the upper range of their products is.
 
wannafbody said:
Well, logically speaking, if you are going to wax your car, you are going to wax the hood as well, so it would make the most sense to pick a product that was capable of standing up to a hot hood without breaking down. I think the list of products capable of doing that is probably pretty short-Collinite, JW/Klasse and Zaino come to mind but a few others may make the list. It would be best to ask the manufacturer if they have done heat testing and what the upper range of their products is.
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Just saying you don't know for sure how the other products will react to the heat if they aren't exposed to it.
 
Scottwax said:
Just saying you don't know for sure how the other products will react to the heat if they aren't exposed to it.
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Easy, ask the manufacturer that is if the manufacturer actually does heat testing and I would think that the majority of bulk blenders don't do that type of testing.
 
The water management of OOS is second to none. It may sheet a bit slow, but complete. It quickly "switches" to sheeting and keeps this behavior for a relatively long time. One of the best products for reducing spotting.



I love to watch the mercury-like beading of 845 though.
 
Small update. Added our car to the testing. My truck will be washed and moe pictures will be taken when the weather clears up. Had a few moments to take pictures tonight of the car. The magnum was split into test panels as well using almost all of the same waxes/sealants. They were applied April 27th.



Stripping the previous wax.

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Yeah, it was stripped... blowing air on the water just rippled it, wouldn't come off the paint.

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Stripped versus Waxed with Optimum Car Wax from a few months earlier.

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The waxes! Optiseal, Wolfgang Sealant, Collinite 476, and Colinite 845 in the Microfiber wrap.

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Clean car outside, May 13

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After a burst of water.

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You can see the edges pretty clear!

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Some individual feedback.

- Collinite 845 beads up very well. The great part is the synthetic blend allows the wax to bead up, and sheet depending on how the water is applied to the surface.

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- Optiseal is still slick, and protecting as it should. Since it is a sealant, and the hood is almost parallel to the ground, there is not much sheeting, but more puddling. If the hood were sloped more, it would have sheeted off the surface.

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- Collinite 476 is a paste wax that usually leaves a lot of beads. This was, again, the case. Uniform beads that look great! A little "bead" highway too.

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- Wolfgang Sealant, like the Optiseal, it is hard to judge it on a parallel surface, but it is still protecting.

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Some pictures you might find interesting.



The "unprotected" surface on the right, whereas the left is protected with collinite 845. Very minor filling, but it darkens the finish definitively.

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The "unprotected" surface on the left, whereas the right is protected with collinite 476. A little filling ability, but again, the darkening.

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I will try to keep this updated as well.



Wash was with Meguiars D111 Shampoo plus with ONR added.
 
awesome thread. I have the WGDG and I like it, I also have the s100 (p21s wax) and I find that to be good to but not durable.



This really gets me excited about the Collinite. I am looking for a wax that is durable and has some filling. Can you test to see if the filling last with the beading (protection)?
 
estcstm3 said:
awesome thread. I have the WGDG and I like it, I also have the s100 (p21s wax) and I find that to be good to but not durable.



This really gets me excited about the Collinite. I am looking for a wax that is durable and has some filling. Can you test to see if the filling last with the beading (protection)?
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I wish! I am updating this thread very soon. The Magnum is currently being detailed, so tonight the protection will be stripped, but I will do my best to take some more pictures to see if the waxes are still protecting/filling.



After 2 detergent washes all of the protection on the magnum held up. I will use APC tonight to see which wax resists the strongest cleaner ;)
 
I used Kit Pearl Glo I picked up for $2 at Big Lots and it sheeted immediately out of the gate and fast and didn't change it's charactaristics even after a few washes. Collinite is a given for great durability but it will fall off after 3 months or so.
 
Quick Update on the Magnum. I washed the car with a detergent to strip the waxes, but even after foaming it once, the protection was still strong, so I took a few pictures to post.



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Wolfgang Sealant still protecting and exhibiting sheeting v. beading.

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Collinite 476 beading and sheeting. Depends on the angle of the hood and how much water is applied.

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Collinite 845 beading. This wax was the slickest, but still a hybrid wax, not sealant, so there is sheeting, but primarily beading.

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Optiseal showing it's sheeting abilities. Water runs off or puddles, and does not bead.

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Overall, the Collinites were doing the best, but I didn't give it enough time to test the full duration. It did take 2 detergent washes with APC, and clay bar to kill the wax though!
 
I wonder if your DGPS 3.0 is ok. I found it strange that you found it harder to work with than 476s and the beading looked not as good as I've experienced. In comparison, I find DGPS much easier to work with than 476s. It is very easy to apply. And after waiting for it to fully dry it is a breeze to remove, one light swipe and it is gone.



So I'm wondering....



- Did you shake the bottle very well

- Did you apply it very thin

- Did you let it fully dry at least 45 minutes?

- Did you also happen to let it cure for at least 12 hours without moisture from water, dew, condensation, etc....
 
bcwang said:
I wonder if your DGPS 3.0 is ok. I found it strange that you found it harder to work with than 476s and the beading looked not as good as I've experienced. In comparison, I find DGPS much easier to work with than 476s. It is very easy to apply. And after waiting for it to fully dry it is a breeze to remove, one light swipe and it is gone.



So I'm wondering....



- Did you shake the bottle very well - Yes

- Did you apply it very thin No

- Did you let it fully dry at least 45 minutes? Yes

- Did you also happen to let it cure for at least 12 hours without moisture from water, dew, condensation, etc.... 36 hours without any moisture of any kind
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The 476 was easier because I have had enough experience in applying it, that it is super easy for me to use. The reason DGPS was harder to remove was probably from using too much product. That was a lesson I learned when first using 476, it was much harder to completely remove if you use too much. The surface has since been fully corrected, so the beading/durability would be different now.
 
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