"Perfect Shine" Expectations

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onemansopinion

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This weekend I will follow the process laid out in the "Perfect Shine" How-To article for detailing my '04 dark blue Touareg, but I have a few questions.



1) Considering this is my maiden voyage, what amount of time should I expect to complete the wash, polish (P21S cleanser), AIO, and wax (P21S carnauba) phases? What time should be allowed between each phase?



2) What would be tell-tale signs that something is not being done correctly during the polish, AIO and wax phases? During these phases, I should maintain back and forth motions that are parallel to the ground in 2' X 2' sections, correct? (I'll be doing everything by hand.)



3) Any words of wisdom or suggested modifications to the process?



Looking forward to seeing what happens ... I'll be sure to take some pics of what will hopefully be a success.
 
Just follow the directs each manufacturer gives you to the letter. Don't get creative and you will get a very nice, wet shine.
 
One thing you might want to throw in the mix is claying. All the VW I have seen seem to have very good paint in regards to orange peel and clarity but the trip over on the boat and rail movement tend to leave a bit of contamination in the paint. Claying is rather painless and gives a good smooth starting point.



I don't know enough about P21S cleanser and wether it will accomplish the same as claying.



Also .. aren't P21S cleanser and AIO sort of like the same proceedure? I am not versed in either .. just what I read here.



Here is a good article on claying



http://www.bettercarcare.com/articles.php?articleId=14
 
onemansopinion said:
This weekend I will follow the process laid out in the "Perfect Shine" How-To article for detailing my '04 dark blue Touareg, but I have a few questions.



1) Considering this is my maiden voyage, what amount of time should I expect to complete the wash, polish (P21S cleanser), AIO, and wax (P21S carnauba) phases?
Click to expand...

I know we have a lot of aerobic Autopians here ... but just let me say that those steps alone would take me AT LEAST a 10-hr day. Don't rush it.
 
Mother's California Gold Clay Bar Kit is very good and about $16.00 at Pep Boys. The comment above about shipping contaminants is valid and I'm sure you dealer DIDN'T clay the vehicle before delivery. Do it yourself and get the best possible finish you can. I did my entire Lightning is about 2 1/2 hours.
 
Thanks for the comments & guidance. I have some follow up questions.



1) Regarding black trim around the bottom of the exterior of the vehicle: should I treat this before I begin? after? with 303?



2) Also regarding the exterior black trim: I should keep the P21S polish, AIO & wax off of the trim, correct? If some should get on the trim, use a detailing spray to remove it while still fresh (if I'm not taping off), correct?



3) Regarding chrome: keep all three product off of the chrome & remove (immediately) while fresh, true?



Thank you to all for sharing your knowledge base & also, thank you Lynn for the longer time estimate as I'm sure my first pass through this process will be more time consuming for me than it might be for most of you.



ps - I see that it's going to rain in my area ... guess I'll get a quick evaluation of the protection benefits of my efforts ...
 
onemansopinion- I always treat the black trim on MY vehicles with AIO (been doing it for ages with no problems), usually topped with BFII, P UPP, or even SG. But yes, plenty of people are happy with 303. If you decide to use the 303, I'd do it first so errant products will wipe off easier, then touch it up again at the end.



AIO and wax are fine for chrome, no need to keep them off- put 'em ON instead. Heh heh, *I* use AIO on just about everything except the windshield and the tires!



Don't worry too much about front-to-back motions. As long as everthing is clean (and your applicators, etc. are soft) it won't matter. People use PCs and THOSE don't move front-to-back. F-t-B just makes any swirls that DO happen less noticeable. Try to NOT get the swirls at all instead.



Seriously consider the clay. Every vehicle I have NOT clayed ended up with "rust blooms" from imbedded ferrous deposits. No, the paint cleanser won't do the same thing as clay.



And I'm with Lynn on the time estimate. It'll take longer than you might think.
 
I think I'm gonna have to raise my confidence level before I attempt claying my new vehicle ... while I understand your advice, I'm just not ready to run before I crawl. Heck, just going this far is a major advance for me over my previous process of a once or twice a year waxing!



Since this is a long weekend that appears to contain rain in the forecast & also that my Bucs are out of the playoffs, guess I'll hang out in the garage & take my time ... again, thanks for all of the input ... the info & individuals on this site are great.
 
It may have taken longer for the first 1 or 2 trips over the car, I don't really remember. But it seems now that for any product it takes me about 20 minutes to go all around my Subaru Impreza Wagon. So to apply and remove 1 coat of SG I plan on 45 minutes plus prep (gathering supplies and cleaning up when I'm done) And yes, I do it all by hand. ;)
 
One final question (for now): can the P21s polish be applied to the painted bumper areas? I presume the AIO & wax are great, but will the polish cause any damage to the non-metalic painted areas?



Can't wait until I can start sharing experiences instead of being full of questions ...
 
You shouldn't have a problem with PS wax on your painted bumpers. I've used it on my car which has painted bumpers with inset black plastic rubbing strips without any hiccups.
 
Andy: what I was wondering about was whether I can apply the GEPC (polishing paintwork cleanser) to the painted bumpers prior to AIO & PCW ... or will this damage the bumper finish?
 
This should be OK.



The paint on your bumpers will be basically the same as the body (i.e. clearcoated) although they probably use a plasticiser (?zer) in the painting process as plastic flexes more than metal.



I use exactly the same procedure on my bumpers as the rest of the car, although I generally use AG super resin or Poorboys EX on my bumpers and lower door panels for added gloss as these areas tend to pick up the most crud off the road.



There's quite a few Veedub owners here (jesstzn springs to mind) who can probably put your mind at rest with more authority than me.
 
onemansopinion- As Andyc said, you'll be fine using the GEPC on the painted bumpers of your VW. Really. In fact, some day you'll probably end up using something MUCH more aggressive on them!



The paint there is basically the same as that on the rest of the vehicle except for the addition of a "flex additive". It *IS* often a tiny bit softer, but not enough to matter in this context. I polish the painted bumper covers of my vehicles (including my pampered S8 and its somewhat less pampered A8 garagemate) whenever they need it. No problems at all. And I'm use stuff that's a lot stronger than GEPC. I've done this to some vehicles for MANY years without problems...
 
onemansopinion.. if your refering to the atuall painted bumpes and not black textured plastic lower valances I polish / wax mine all the time. Treat them just like body paint. The black textured valanaces heep the wax etx off them they are a b*tch to clean up. I use Feorever Black Tire Dressing on them.
 
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