PC too strong for headlights?

Q

qbmurderer13

New member
Ive got a detail coming up that involves clearing up some mildly hazed headlights. Ive tried plastx by hand on headlights and they really havent done anything. These lights arent in need of sanding, but I was wondering what course of action should I take? Can I use a porter cable with a 4" white pad with some menzerna 106fa, or is that even too strong? Maybe use plastx on the white pad? I dont want to do any more damage.
 
That shouldn't be too strong; in fact, it might not be enough. Most of my correction is done with wetsanding followed by M105 & compounding pad/M205 & polishing pad and then KAIO/KSG finishing pad.
 
It really depends on the condition of the headlights ...



My worst headlights were hit with sandpaper first (800/1000/2000) and then with 203 on a green uber pad. I finished them with 106fa on a blue uber pad.



If the hazing is light ... hit them with 2000 grit and then 3000 grit sandpaper. Then do 105 and finish them off with 106fa.



I have to do my brother's headlights that have deep scratches. I'm sure I have to hit some areas with 400 grit first.
 
Well I stated in the first and third post the condition of the lights. Also I will not be using a rotary, I will be using a porter cable.
 
4" orange pad with M105 on headlights and tail lights works great for me.



Prime the face of the pad with M105. Then apply a dot or two of M105. Apply some pressure, but keep the pad spinning. Frequently check the surface of your headlights to ensure they are not getting too hot. Finish with M205.
 
I worked on badly hazed, but not badly scratched headlights. Did 105/cyan 205/tangerine, and KAIO to finish. They looked much better. I am also going to be doing something similar to what you describe qbmurderer13. 2005 headlights that are in decent shape. Probably just m105/205 but no wetsanding.
 
gmblack3a said:
4" orange pad with M105 on headlights and tail lights works great for me.



Prime the face of the pad with M105. Then apply a dot or two of M105. Apply some pressure, but keep the pad spinning. Frequently check the surface of your headlights to ensure they are not getting too hot. Finish with M205.
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I worked on badly hazed, but not badly scratched headlights. Did 105/cyan 205/tangerine, and KAIO to finish. They looked much better. I am also going to be doing something similar to what you describe qbmurderer13. 2005 headlights that are in decent shape. Probably just m105/205 but no wetsanding.



Ditto on the heat issue as well. Watch that carefully. And if you are doing it with the headlights in place, adequately tape off any edges as they will make small tears in the pads.
 
gmblack3a said:
/// Finish with M205.
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On plastics like tail lights, I prefer finishing up with something else as I've had unpleasant surprises a few days later after the M205's oils/whatever dissipated.



Don't get me wrong, M205 works OK, I just like some other precautionary step before the LSP goes one. Not always an issue, but it has been a few times, and considering how few corrections I do compared to the pros here, that sure got my attention.
 
Nope accumulator you nailed it. Once the oils in 205 fade away you're left with the results of whatever it filled in. Seems to be a nagging issue with 205 and it's uber filling abilities lately. Found myself having to go back numerous times to make sure everything is kosher. 205 isn't the holy grail it was made out to be by all the "pro's" ;) It's good but it still has a lot of flaws with it as well. Once you finish the headlights down it's a good idea to go in a seal them back up. I'd personally use a rotary before I'd bother with the PC on it. The PC will get the job done but it's more of a hassle than the rotary.
 
Jakerooni said:
Nope accumulator you nailed it. Once the oils in 205 fade away you're left with the results of whatever it filled in..
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Not only that, but some plastics "dry out" when the oils are gone; that happened on the "D" pillars of my Yukon and *man* was I :eek: when I saw it! I had to buff down to "not dried out plastic" to affect a permanent fix.



That particular plastic and M205 did *NOT* play nice together and similar, but not nearly as serious, incidents with tailights made me nervous as I didn't want to thin them so much lest they become vurnerable to UV damage. I'd hate for taillights to end up permanently pink or something because I buffed them incorrectly.
 
Jakerooni said:
Nope accumulator you nailed it. Once the oils in 205 fade away you're left with the results of whatever it filled in.
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5 minutes in the sun usually does the trick. Whatever #105 and #205 leave behind flashes off in the sun pretty quickly and you get a true picture of the finish. I usually try to take my lunch break after I finish using #205 and let the vehicle bake in the sun for 30-40 minutes. I've had a surprise or two when I return. :lol



qbmurderer13-not having the car in front of me, it is hard to tell you what will remove the hazing but start light and work your way up to wetsanding if needed.
 
Jakerooni said:
Nope accumulator you nailed it. Once the oils in 205 fade away you're left with the results of whatever it filled in. Seems to be a nagging issue with 205 and it's uber filling abilities lately. Found myself having to go back numerous times to make sure everything is kosher. 205 isn't the holy grail it was made out to be by all the "pro's" ;) It's good but it still has a lot of flaws with it as well. Once you finish the headlights down it's a good idea to go in a seal them back up. I'd personally use a rotary before I'd bother with the PC on it. The PC will get the job done but it's more of a hassle than the rotary.
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Jake, So you are going to blame the product and not user error on the issues that you had with that mega cab?



You made claims in the past that the KBM was detailing 101 here:



http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-de...6222-new-m105-kicking-but-w-kb-method-17.html



I wonder why the owner never replied back after he viewed the truck in the sun:



http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-details-before-after/124463-2006-dodge-ram-mega-cab-edition.html



Could it be Jake that the owner drove a long way to have you detail his truck and is now having it fixed by someone else? :rolleyes:
 
Scottwax said:
5 minutes in the sun usually does the trick. Whatever #105 and #205 leave behind flashes off in the sun pretty quickly and you get a true picture of the finish.
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I agree, but I've never come accross M205 via PCXP filling? Note that I never correct anything more than rotary swirls or M105 hazing with it. My regular routine after polishing is to rewash (powerwasher) with Dawn and do 1 or two alcohol wipedowns. I do this more to remove the oils for LSP bonding, but it also reveals anything the oils *could* conceal. This gets done 1st thing in the morning the day after I do the polishing and the car sits outside in the hot Florida sun for several hours while I do the interior. So far, I haven't had the need to re-correct a single car.
 
Everytime I polish a different car or paint with M105, I do 5x straight IPA wipedowns and nothing ever comes back. I have also heated up corrected panels with my halogens and still have nothing come back.
 
David Fermani said:
I agree, but I've never come accross M205 via PCXP filling? Note that I never correct anything more than rotary swirls or M105 hazing with it. My regular routine after polishing is to rewash (powerwasher) with Dawn and do 1 or two alcohol wipedowns. I do this more to remove the oils for LSP bonding, but it also reveals anything the oils *could* conceal. This gets done 1st thing in the morning the day after I do the polishing and the car sits outside in the hot Florida sun for several hours while I do the interior. So far, I haven't had the need to re-correct a single car.
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Same here. The trick with the rotary is a few final passes with light pressure at 1000 rpms, only a few times have I come back to find faint holograms and that's been on softer paint. Nothing real bad but the paint did look perfect 30 minutes earlier! :lol



I'm usually following the KB method with #105 with #205 and a rotary so I don't have any real idea about #205 doing any filling via DA polisher while doing the KB method.
 
Nope bryan I have zero issues claiming user error on that Ram. That was 100% my own fault. And I drove to him to fix it. Which he was with me the entire time and we went over that truck again with a fine tooth comb until it was absoultly the way he wanted it. I didn't leave until he said he liked what he saw. (really didn't take much more but we wanted to be sure) But the point that 205 has the usual Meguires flaws still stands. I'm not the only one to point this out. Numerous detailers (just not your little click there) have pointed out the same thing over and over. 205 is a good product but it fills. Which if you're prepaired for that it's not an issue.



But again bryan you always seem to take a thread completly off track just to do a personal attack on someone. Wether it's me, Scottwax, jdoria or any other detailer that dosen't agree with your one track train of thought on detailing. I mean you're what 60ish now... Yet you still act like your 15 or something.. I know full well I'm not the only one that thinks this board would be much better off without you. (as I'm sure you're little following you have thinks the same about me) Not sure who p*ssed in your wheaties when you were a kid but it's time to let it go man. I don't ever start crap with you but I always seem to find myself having to rebutt against your idiotic attacks...
 
Jakerooni said:
Nope bryan I have zero issues claiming user error on that Ram. That was 100% my own fault. And I drove to him to fix it. Which he was with me the entire time and we went over that truck again with a fine tooth comb until it was absoultly the way he wanted it. I didn't leave until he said he liked what he saw. (really didn't take much more but we wanted to be sure) But the point that 205 has the usual Meguires flaws still stands. I'm not the only one to point this out. Numerous detailers (just not your little click there) have pointed out the same thing over and over. 205 is a good product but it fills. Which if you're prepaired for that it's not an issue.



But again bryan you always seem to take a thread completly off track just to do a personal attack on someone. Wether it's me, Scottwax, jdoria or any other detailer that dosen't agree with your one track train of thought on detailing. I mean you're what 60ish now... Yet you still act like your 15 or something.. I know full well I'm not the only one that thinks this board would be much better off without you. (as I'm sure you're little following you have thinks the same about me) Not sure who p*ssed in your wheaties when you were a kid but it's time to let it go man. I don't ever start crap with you but I always seem to find myself having to rebutt against your idiotic attacks...
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So what I hear about another detailer having to fix that truck is not true?



Jake, IMO the problem is you always want to run your mouth about aspects of detailing that you have no clue about. You continuously attack myself and other pros who use different methods to get the job done. Then when you try these "detailing 101" methods out and they don't work for you, its one excuse after another.



I had you on ignore for at least 2 months, all the while I hear from others that you are still running your mouth about certain pros on this board. Why is it you feel you have to lash out at others who have success?



You ran your business into the ground in Flint. Folks tried to help you out by offering you a sweatheart deal doing fleet washes for a very wealthly client, but no you where too smart for that job. So you turned it down. Then you came to the south to conquer and now you find yourself working at a dealership making $10/hr.



I have got more then a few PMs as of late from detailers who are sick and tired of your constant whining. They say things like, "I used to feel sorry for Jake, but once you get to know him he is a real PITA."
 
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