PC newbie - some questions

kaos

kaos

6-Speeder
Went out to do some polishing with the PC today. I had a few issues that I wanted to run by the experts before I continue. :)

Current condition of paint:

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Started with SSR2 and polishing pad. (Have the Edge 2k package from Dwayne)

It wasn't doing much, so I stepped up to Menzerna IP. (don't currently have any SSR 2.5 or 3 on hand)

That didn't do much either, so stepped up to the IP with a light cutting (green) pad. That improved things significantly, but still didn't get it all.

Here's what the IP/green pad brought it to:

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Now... the aforementioned questions. :D

These pads seem to suck up a *lot* of product. Anything that can be done to alleviate this? I read in a thread here somewhere that the best thing to prime the pad with is the product in use, but this seems to use up a ton of polish.

The polish seemed to be drying on the pad quite a bit. It was fine on the surface, and remained wet enough to continue to work, but anytime I hit any kind of an edge with the pad (such as a badge I'd masked off, for instance), or went around a tight curve, it would sling a large amount of dust. Anything I'm doing wrong? Or is that just the way it is?

Next step? I guess I'll probably pick up some SSR 2.5 and 3, and see what I can do with that. Or should I just go locally and snag some DACP, would that take the spiderwebs out better? Go to the medium cutting pad? *shrug!*

Suggestions welcome... :)
 
What speed are you using on the PC to work the polish in? I have found that stepping up to 6 does a lot more than working at 5. I have also found that SSR2.5 has quite a bit more bite than SSR2. Don't get discouraged, sometimes it takes a little time and several passes with the PC. I had to learn how to be patient and work over each section sl o o o w l y. ;)

From the looks of the marked improvement you already have, I'd say you're on your way. Maybe get you some SSR2.5 - it's my favorite abrasive polish. :bigups
 
I would make one pass over the whole panel on about speed 4, then step up to about 5.5 and work it for a while. Even at that, my hands were going numb. :D Do you guys use any kind of gloves when working for extended periods at high speeds with the PC?
 
Well, to be honest, if the IP didn't get them, as good a product as the SSR2.5 is, I doubt it will do much better.......... but you can try. Same thing for the DACP, as it is similar to SSR2.5 in abrasiveness. The SSR3 is bit much for a PC, but it has been done. You will probably have to step down to lighter polish after the SSR3 to remove any hazing left behind.

Why not try the IP again. Make sure you move the PC very slowly with a little light pressure, and work the paint area at different angles. Start by going back and forth, covering a 2' x 2' area. Then go "across" the same area, and finally, diagonally across the same area. This works well with "circular" swirls.

If your worst swirls have a definite pattern........ say horizonal or vertical, it sometimes helps to concentrate more effort on going "across" the swirls with the PC. Based on the picture, they look to be circular.

You can wear gloves with the PC if you wish. As a matter of fact, any machine that "vibrates" and is used in cool/cold weather should be handled with gloves.

HTH
 
Hi kaos, its hard to see in the pictures what is going on.Question did you clay the vehicle before trying your steps, this is a step missed by alot and if any contaminents are on your vehicle will produce bad results or take alot longer to get great results.I'm still waiting for weather to change to try Menzerna products out so can't give you any advise there,Sorry.The pads I use are advanced 7 1/2 high gloss pads, i use these pads on both circular and pc machines here is discription of there pads and uses:
7.5 inch, White Polishing Pad - The most often used pad. This pad has a mild cutting (cleaning) action and should be used to apply light compounds, polishes and one-step, cleaner/waxes. Use this Hi-Gloss White Polishing Pad with Menzerna Intensive Polish to remove swirls and with Menzerna Final Polish II to maximize surface gloss.
This is also the best pad for applying one-step, polish/sealants like Klasse All-In-One and Autoglym Super Resin Polish when using a D-A polisher.
(You should not use a circular polisher to apply waxes and one-step cleaner/sealants like Klasse All-In-One.)
Note: Polishing pads can "cake-up" with residues reducing their effectiveness. If you don't want to stop in the middle of polishing to clean pads, plan on using 2 or 3 pads to polish the average car.
7.5 inch, Yellow Compounding Pad - More aggressive cutting action than the white pad. Use this pad to compound older vehicles with a dull, chalky or neglected finish.
Use this pad with caution. Compounding can dull the surface (called compounding haze) which will require additional finish polishing to remove.
Use this Hi-Gloss Yellow Compounding Pad with Menzerna Intensive Polish to remove swirls or paint defects that do not come out with the white pad. After compounding, go over the surface with Menzerna Final Polish II using the white polishing pad. This will restore surface gloss and prepare the paint for glazing or waxing. This is the most aggressive pad we offer that is still safe for clear coat finishes (when used with a dual-action polisher).
7.5 inch Black Glazing/Finessing Pad - This pad has no cutting or cleaning action. It should be used to apply a glaze or a finessing polish.
Use this Hi-Gloss Black Glazing Pad to apply Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze, 3M Imperial Hand Glaze, and Meguiar's No. 7 Show Car Glaze. You can also use this pad to apply Meguiar's No. 3 Machine Polish and 3M Finesse-It II Machine Polish.
7.5 inch, Red Concours Finishing Pad - Like the grey pad, this red pad has no cutting or cleaning action. This new, incredibly fine, European foam was introduced in 2004 for applying the final liquid wax or paint sealant using a D-A polisher. While made for the OEM market and demanding enthusiast, this easy-to-use, Hi-Gloss Red Finishing Pad glides over the surface creating a mirror-like shine.
This is also the pad to use for layering one wax or sealant on top of another or for building up multiple layers of shine.
The only thing i can say is keep trying and don't let product dry while polishing/buffing, work it till almost dry, stop and wipe off with microfiber cloth check to see results and either try again more product at higher speed or change to more aggressive pad and slower speed. All this is MY OPINION and only that, read everything you can try what you want or feel safe with and hope it works out.PC is a hard machine to screw up paint with so don't be affraid with that.Hope this helps in some way,good luck and keep up the good work. Bill
 
Ok. Good info so far.

How about priming the pad? I have done some more searching and now found threads that say just prime with the product, and others that say mist first with some QD or S&W. Thoughts?
 
Boss_429 said:
The SSR3 is bit much for a PC, but it has been done.

HTH
Click to expand...


I bought some SSR3 thinking it was for the PC?

I have used it once with a cutting pad and 5 or 6 on my PC. It worked pretty well. I needed something stronger than DACP. SSR3 did the job that one instance. I had some nasty scratches on black paint that looked a lot like Kaos's pictures.

Believe me it did take a lot of time and patience to get the results I was looking for. In the end I had to leave a few of the scratches behind and moved on to Meg #9. Filled in what was left, but I was done trying. Under my halogen lights it looked pretty good, but in the sunlight they were pretty much invisible.

Hey Boss -- Is there something more agressive to use than DACP or SSR2.5 that can be used with the PC?
 
Well, if you've been able to use the SSR3 successfully, you've alread found a product more abrasive. Steve's polishes are pretty easy to work and forgiving. However, I still think SSR3 is better suited to a rotary. Much of that will depend on the quality/hardness of the paint.
 
Yes you have to prime your pads. I just spray light mist of water and then apply the product to the pad in a X pattern, put pad on vehicle and move it around with machine off until i get some product on vehicle, then start while pad is on vehicle. I Always start off on a middle speed and do an area until just before product is dry and stop, wipe off with Microfiber cloth and inspect, if i like it move on if not apply more product and change speed, keep repeating until get desired results or change to more aggressive product and more aggressive pad or one or the other.I can usually get vehicle done with 2 of each pad as the pads will get caked up after awhile and rather than waste time cleaning then just change pad. After you are done clean all your pads and let then dry and put them in ziplock bag for storage.Same goes for Claying I use just soapy water with a sponge alot of it and just go over an area 4times back and forth lite touch.If a vehicle is in rough shape I use a circular buffer for the compounding/intense polish and also the polish then move over to the pc for the glaze and wax, just cuts time in half but have to know what your doing very easy to burn paint with circular buffer.Plus people i know are not going to do there vehicle but once a year I do the wash and dry and then clay and wash and dry then compound and wipe off with 50/50 water and iso alcohol then polish and wipe and then wax and wipe and then add liquid glass as a sealant and wipe , takes away alittle of the depth of the shine but looks great just the same and will last alot longer.Cars/trucks/suv's alot of work but look how many hours you worked to buy it and the hours to keep it looking great is not that bad.You can go to properautocare.com and alot of info on detailing there.Good luck and keep trying you will be pleased in the end.
 
Actually, Poorboy Steve says to never prime your pad when using his SSR's. He said that it will cause the product not to break down correctly and gum up the pad (IIRC).

Also, FWIW, I have used SSR3 with a PC on Steve's recommendation and have had very, very good results. I did have to follow it up with SSR2.5 to remove hazing, but I think it's okay to use with the PC.

Just my $0.02.
 
So with all that said, what do you step up first when you need something more aggressive? Do you step up the pad first or the product?
 
zannard said:
So with all that said, what do you step up first when you need something more aggressive? Do you step up the pad first or the product?
Click to expand...

Personally I usually step up to a more agressive product on the same pad. Say going from SSR2.5 with a polish pad to SSR3 with the same pad. That's an interesting question when you think about it. I would assume that it comes down to personal preference. :dunno
 
Good question, funny thing is can't give set answer,SORRY.I have been doing this since 1968 and average 25-30 cars a year and this is not my Job LOL all family and friends and friends of friends.I get $100.00 for outside detail only. Every car/truck/suv is different and from time you seem to learn what it takes to break it down and polish it up. There are no set rules in stone to this detailing, wish there was. With new products and new machines and new pads changes all the time.Everyone has there opinion and alot are very good but bottom line is you have to try something and see how you like it, then again depends on what you actually are looking for and how much work you are willing to do to get it and how much money you have to spend on products.I learn new things everyday and new products, some work some don't, doesn't mean it was the product or the opinion that was wrong just didn't work well for me. Only thing I can say is read-read-read and take out what sounds good to you and try it, if you like it stick with it if not move on.With PC you should not do any damage to you vehicle's finish, might take alot longer to get perfect results but bring plenty of BEER and good TUNES and results will make the difference.Your starting well trying and asking questions now just keep trying and hope it works for you, don't give up,it is worth it in long run.
 
Well, after trying several pad/product combos, I finally went out and got some DACP locally. Ended up having to step all the way up to the yellow Edge 2k medium cutting pad, and the results are excellent. After the DACP/yellow pad, I went back over it with SSR2 and a blue polishing pad.

I couldn't believe how much the act of just getting the swirls out really made the metallic pop too. I've polished this truck by hand and with a cheezy walmart buffer before, and it always shined up real nice, but I've never seen the metallic really stand out like it does now.

And all this can be attributed to what I've learned here... So, I guess there's only one thing left to say.

:dcrules
 
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