PC 7424 graduating in to a flex or rotary

[rjcastr]

Hi guys,



im taking the lunge and im curious to try a rotary or a flex what is the difference between the two.



what tips would you give me to prevent pait degredation or burning



techniques ?

things to look for?

tips ?



there are scratches on my car that the PC will not remove and everyone says i will need a high speed for it, will the felx work?

 

[Accumulator]

Hi guys,



im taking the lunge and im curious to try a rotary or a flex what is the difference between the two.

The Flex is like a PC except that it's more powerful overall and, most importantly, the pad's *rotation* is also powered by the motor.



The rotary is simply that- like a drill, it spins in a purely circular motion.



Check out one of the vendors' sites for a better explanation.

what tips would you give me to prevent pait degredation or burning



techniques ?

things to look for?

tips ?

Keep the machine moving and take it easy on areas where the paint is likely to be thin. Pay attention to what you're doing every single second and know what's gonna (or at least likely to) happen before you do it; understand what's going on.



I never found "burning" to be much of an issue, even with a rotary used at high speed. Such stuff seems like common sense to me, just a matter of understanding the whole thing and paying attention (but note that other people have very different experiences to say the least). But getting a rotary to finish out 100% hologram-free is another matter entirely.



The Flex is a *LOT* easier to get the hang of IME, and I haven't touched my rotaries since I got my Flex. That's not to say that I never *will*, just that I've never found a need for it yet.



To avoid paint degradation, don't over-thin or burn it (with any machine).

there are scratches on my car that the PC will not remove and everyone says i will need a high speed for it, will the felx work?

Any machine will take off as much paint as you could ever require, or even go all the way to primer or bare metal Yeah, even a PC, just takes longer. Note that I'm used to working on hard clear; the PC *can* do the job, it's just that most people don't want to spend many hours per panel.



The primary benefit of the Flex/rotary upgrade is that those machines will do the work a lot more efficiently (i.e., faster) and easier.

 

[rjcastr]

Ok i will give my porter a full shot today and hope that i can get the parts that i need out.

 

[Accumulator]

Ok i will give my porter a full shot today and hope that i can get the parts that i need out.

For serious correction via PC, I'd use 4" pads. I can never make any real headway with larger ones even though some other people say they do OK with 5.5" pads.



A 4" foam cutting pad, or a 4" or 3.5" PFW pad can do a whole lotta correction, especially with a product like M105.



But it'll still take more than just a few tries, so don't give up after just six or so section passes.

 

[rjcastr]

For serious correction via PC, I'd use 4" pads. I can never make any real headway with larger ones even though some other people say they do OK with 5.5" pads.



A 4" foam cutting pad, or a 4" or 3.5" PFW pad can do a whole lotta correction, especially with a product like M105.



But it'll still take more than just a few tries, so don't give up after just six or so section passes.

six?



yikes i have a full car to do i guess this will be a whole 10 hour job lol



i have heard that the m105 is a good product how do you compare it to the Menzerna IP



i have a BMW which is known for having hard paint, its a metallic monaco blue so i want to make sure i have a good pop to it, i wonder if paint cleaner would help the problems, priming the paint for a good correction.

 

[Accumulator]

six?

Sometimes a whole lot more than that. Even via rotary with rocks-in-a-bottle compound.

yikes i have a full car to do i guess this will be a whole 10 hour job lol

If a ten hour correction sounds wild to you, you can't *imagine* how long I've spent on some vehicles

i have heard that the m105 is a good product how do you compare it to the Menzerna IP

I haven't used IP, but IIRC M105 is more comparable to Menzerna Power Gloss.

i have a BMW which is known for having hard paint, its a metallic monaco blue so i want to make sure i have a good pop to it...

The paint on my '97 M3 was *ROCK* hard. Correcting it took me forever and I mean *days*, even with a rotary/cutting pad/3M Extra Cut compound for the initial work.



In some places I simply wetsanded it and then took out the sanding scratches (which still took a whole lotta section passes).



He hasn't posted here for a while, but a pro named TotoLandMach works on BMWs all the time. He's *GOOD*, and his time is money, and some of them still take him a really long time.

i wonder if paint cleaner would help the problems, priming the paint for a good correction..

Sometimes I preclean the paint, but not with a paint cleaner. I use some kind of solvent-type approach or a super-shampoo like AutoInt's "A", FK 1119, or TOL's PrepWash (which I think is almost a mandatory product, better than IPA IMO).