Paint sealant and waxes

Shane.belzers said:
Thanks should have bottle in hand in the next couple hours :) So how long between coats sould i wait if doing more than one wax coating or after i paint seal my truck lets say?



6 hours, 24, right away
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I wait a day, but I dunno if that's really necessary or not. If that's not really feasible, just do another coat after the next (regularly scheduled) wash. The 845 is *so* user-friendly that it's not all that big a deal, even on large vehicles, and the one coat will be sufficient in the meantime.



Oh, one other thing- be sure to shake shake shake the bottle up before you use it. See if there's a "plug" of wax in the neck of the bottle (probably will be), and if so shove it down into the rest of it and shake shake shake some more. Oughta get really thin, like milk. Running some hot water over the bottle can help speed things along.



Then the whole trick is to use only as much as you need, it's easy to waste product (and effort) by using too much. See how much (excess) you can squeeze out of the applicator when you're finished ;)
 
Already done! Got the bottle bout an hour ago soaked in warm water and shook well and walla :) no more chunky wax.. Gunna test in on a truck i just finished prepping then on my dark blue dakota tonight :) best way to judge a product is on your own vehicle!



Thanks guys



Edit: Threw some on a white diamond silverado and man is this some killer wax. little does go along wayyyyy! Cant wit to test on my truck. How long are you guys finding #845 lasts?



Thanks
 
Shane.belzers said:
How long are you guys finding #845 lasts?
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Eh...."pretty long". Yeah, I know :o isn't that a terrible response?!? But sometimes it lasts a long, long time (especially with a few layers) and other times it's merely average (e.g., it doesn't last on the rear bumpercover of my wife's Audi for some reason :nixweiss ). I have zero idea why and I've considered all the, uhm..usual variables. You just gotta see how it works for *you* but if you get a few coats on there I bet you'll find it quite durable. Anyow, you'll *really* love the way it self-cleans in the rain and how easily it washes up too.



Just throw another coat on before you think it needs it and try to stay one step ahead of the game that way.



BTW don't wash it with older versions of ONR and I wouldn't QD it with FK425 either (both have messed it up for me).



Wonder how you'll like it on the dark blue :think: I think of it as a "bright" wax, more for light colors, but I use it on my older dark blue pearl Audi and it looks *NICE*, gets as many compliments as my good cars do! The dealer actually called me once to ask what's on it..."our other customers keep asking me about it so I figured I might as well ask"....and this is my needs-repainted winter beater :eek:
 
Thanks hopefully it looks good, after some polishing and correction using my HD samples when they get here im going to put 2-3 coats and see how i like it. Dont have ONR or any optimum stuff around the shop. Will regular car soap or APC pull of the wax?
 
Apc will strip wax/sealant, car soap in reg dilutions won't.



Edit:

To be more detailed about it, check with the wash soap you use. Some soaps always strip wax, like a true paintwork cleanser.



Some will strip wax in higher dilutions, but not in a lesser dilution. Good all around use, for polish prep and maintenance washes.



Then, others are designed more as a maintenance wash soap. Like cg's honeydew. Relatively mild and lack the cleaning power to remove waxes.



It's best to check with the directions on whatever wash soap you're using.
 
Thanks. I did a black 09 ram last night with the 845 and its so easy to use but does clean up a bit hard on dark paints. Right now we use 10" terry bonnets on orbitals for removimg wax/ sealant. Thinking we might need microfiber bonnets



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Shane.belzers said:
Will regular car soap or APC pull of the [845 Insulator] wax?
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It resists stripping better than many/most waxes, just gotta be reasonable. I'd avoid that APC though.



Right now we use 10" terry bonnets on orbitals for removimg wax/ sealant. Thinking we might need microfiber bonnets
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I would absolutely positively replace those terry bonnets with MF, and I'd be pretty picky about *what* MF I used too. But then I'm awfully particular about what touches my paint.



845 buffs off pretty well with MF bonnets IME, but I'm using much smaller ones than 10". Also, it seems like I *always* still need to go over things a little by hand too. Doesn't matter whether I do "most by machine, then follow-up by hand" or vice-versa, always seems best to do it both ways. Yeah, more work...



Speaking of "more work", I always do my final LSP buffing while fogging the surface with my breath. The tiny bit of moisture in the condensation makes everything go better IME.
 
If one or two cars, ok, but he hasn't said how many new and used cars a day they have to do.

And, the Service Manager and General Manager has the final say on things, as they control the pocket book.

It ain't no one man enthusist shop, George.

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
If one or two cars, ok, but he hasn't said how many new and used cars a day they have to do.

And, the Service Manager and General Manager has the final say on things, as they control the pocket book.

It ain't no one man enthusist shop, George.

Grumpy
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Who is this in response too? Luckily i report directly to the owners of this dealership :) Anything i need i pretty much get!



Well as far as cars go, monthly we see about 600-800 vehicles pass through my department, we do roughly 20-40 a day, this is a mix of used car details, new car deliveries, paint fab leather stuff, to just a wash.



Roughly though about 10-15 new cars a day, 3-10 used details a day depending on how bad they are and how busy we are, and anywhere from 1 or 2 - 12 of the master shield applications.



Defiantly going to get MF bonnets though and ditch the terrys. We always go over by hand after as well, for god measure
 
I was pointing out to all who are reading the thread that your situation is not the same as an enthusist detailer or even most small professional detail shop.

You have large volumes of vehicles to address, new and used, etc.

I feel it is important for readers to be able to comprehend the difference between what you have to deal with, on a daily basis, vs the home detailer.

I doubt very much that the owners of the dealership would be pleased if the labor time for each used vehicle was 14 to 16 hours.

Many forget that there is a segment of the detailing industry that is not the same as doing their own vehicle and having all the time they need to achieve perfection as they see it.

Grumpy
 
Ah thanks for clarifying! Yes my situation is different then most on here. Although im in the process of expanding and re shaping our retail side of our detail services we offer. Im also adding mobile detailing after winter.



Right now though are average turn around on a used car is 2-4 hours.
 
Ron Ketcham- Yeah, I was directing my, uhm....more Autopian remarks towards the personal-use stuff that Shane.belzers had mentioned.



But I do hear you on the different priorities; back when I had the dealership the inventory-correction stuff sure wasn't done to Autopian standards :grinno: Well, anything fun enough to play with might've been a different story ;)
 
Shane.belzers- Just curious- do your (car-buying) customers really care about paint correction, or are they the kind of people who don't see/know from/care about that stuff?



I'm always astounded at how terrible cars are in showrooms...and I mean six-figure cars too. From a business perspective I do understand it; don't put $ into something that doesn't make money, etc. etc. But, well...you know.
 
To be honest most no. Some yea . But for our used car inventory if they care i can sell them a buff from use or our body shop. Most the cars we clean for the used lot. Get a real good prep and just a wax. Some need a hood polished or water spots removed which we can take the extra time for. Whatever sells the cars right ;)



As for show floor cars your right about that. We have 3 corevettes on right now. Luckily 2 are white but the 3 is black and looks horible, same with our black ZL1 camaro. i just sent a black ltz avalanche to the body shop to be buffed before it goes anywhere near the ahow floor. but like you said that all comes out the already small margins these cara have.



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Figured id post more. So far i got collinite 845 in our linup now. Good stuff. Were messing with #66 cleaner wax on our used stuff and it might be out wash/wax wax we use. Also tested poxy love that as well. How long does poxy last ? And for waxing over wax. Is collinite a bottom wax or top wax type of wax. Is it gunna give the under lying protection or the top layer shine ? Since poxy has is a hybrid sealant will id work over wax or only under wax.



Thanks



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shane.belzers- I'd better leave the Poxy Qs for somebody who knows more than I do. But for the Collinite 845, IME it works as *either* a "top" or "bottom" wax...or even both. My usual Collinite regimen is a base layer of 845 (less likely to leave wax artifacts in pitting/scratches/chips or along tape or PPF edges) then a coat of 476S paste wax, then a final topper of 845. I usually maintain with more applications of 845 unless I have some reason to go with the 476S instead.



BUT..for your "work projects" I don't think you really need to bother with anything other than one good, thorough application of [whatever]. For your personal stuff, or those "special cases", you might try my "Collinite sandwich" mentioned above. After you do that "middle layer" you will probably know whether you like that for your final product, or preferred the 845 (if the latter, just do an 845 topper).
 
I was considering when im done correction my paint, sealing with the mastershield paint sealant then top with #845. Until i can get my hands on some opti-coat then that might be my bottom?



Thanks for the always insightful info
 
Shane.belzers said:
I was considering when im done correction my paint, sealing with the mastershield paint sealant then top with #845...
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To0 be honest, my first thought was "why bother topping with the 845?" :confused: But then I don't know anything about the mastershield :nixweiss
 
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