Paint Meter/Thickness Gauges!

[Neofate]

a dollar short ..



I don't find this justified for a DIY'er that isn't a by day detailer.. I'd love to have one, but I really just need to know the condition of my clear as is, and I could go from there.



That said, any ideas on how to perhaps find someone locally that might have one of these that I could bring the car by and get some measurements real quick?



Hrmm

 

[Greg Nichols]

^^^

If you have to compound your car yearly you might want to reconsider. I was shocked how thin my paint was in areas.



If you do anyones car your flirting with disaster, one mistake and you're repainting it for far more than the cost of the meter.



That said, I understand this is a bit much for the DIY and a orbital. If you rotary or use wetstanding.........



I found that even most of the body shops in the area don't use one!!!!! I suggest you hit up the local quality body shops for measurements.



Cheers,

GREG

 

[Wren]

^^^

If you have to compound your car yearly you might want to reconsider. I was shocked how thin my paint was in areas.

If you do anyones car your flirting with disaster, one mistake and you're repainting it for far more than the cost of the meter.

That said, I understand this is a bit much for the DIY and a orbital. If you rotary or use wetstanding.........

I found that even most of the body shops in the area don't use one!!!!! I suggest you hit up the local quality body shops for measurements.



Cheers,

GREG

What do you consier thin? At what point would you not want to continue wet sanding or buffing?

 

[Accumulator]

What do you consier thin? At what point would you not want to continue wet sanding or buffing?

Gotta have a baseline to start with, then you can remove ~0.03-0.05 mils total (period, for ever). And that's not much.



I've overthinned the clear on my e36 BMW doing correction that I didn't think all *that* extreme, and most of my vehicles have marring I'm afraid to completely remove (even though I could do it easily).



I expect my PhaseII to be back here on Monday, there was a mix-up that was probably primarily my fault or it wouldn't have taken so long

 

[imported_Dave11]

^^^

If you have to compound your car yearly you might want to reconsider. I was shocked how thin my paint was in areas.



If you do anyones car your flirting with disaster, one mistake and you're repainting it for far more than the cost of the meter.



That said, I understand this is a bit much for the DIY and a orbital. If you rotary or use wetstanding.........



I found that even most of the body shops in the area don't use one!!!!! I suggest you hit up the local quality body shops for measurements.



Cheers,

GREG

E-bay has some real good deals at times, it's hit or miss though.....



I picked up a ETG II last year in mint condition with both of the calibration standards with bases in a foam lined plastic carrying case. The dual probe is excellent. It's encased in a rubber boot that is spring loaded to help prevent any scratching on the surface....



I'm not a pro but, I enjoy being able to check my work with this instrument when ever the time comes up.....

 

[Wren]

Gotta have a baseline to start with, then you can remove ~0.03-0.05 mils total (period, for ever). And that's not much.



I've overthinned the clear on my e36 BMW doing correction that I didn't think all *that* extreme, and most of my vehicles have marring I'm afraid to completely remove (even though I could do it easily).

I expect my PhaseII to be back here on Monday, there was a mix-up that was probably primarily my fault or it wouldn't have taken so long

Ok so say you get a vehicle, one that you've never worked on before (I'm sure this to be the case 85% of the time) and you get your baseline reading. Who's to say your baseline is not already past the .03-.05 maximum removal? Say it was originally 4.5 microns and someone buffed it down to 4 but this is your baseline reading. Do you still use the .03 to .05? Or do you use the rule of thumb of 3.5 to 5.5 average paint thickness, not to go past 3.5?



Eager to see your readings with the PhaseII. Also, are the Phase & Highline units capable of reading Ferrous and Non ferrous? (automatic switching?)

 

[Woob]

Ok so say you get a vehicle, one that you've never worked on before (I'm sure this to be the case 85% of the time) and you get your baseline reading. Who's to say your baseline is not already past the .03-.05 maximum removal? Say it was originally 4.5 microns and someone buffed it down to 4 but this is your baseline reading. Do you still use the .03 to .05? Or do you use the rule of thumb of 3.5 to 5.5 average paint thickness, not to go past 3.5?



Eager to see your readings with the PhaseII. Also, are the Phase & Highline units capable of reading Ferrous and Non ferrous? (automatic switching?)

Phase II can do both Ferrous and Non Ferrous, these meters will automatically detect what material they are measuring as well.



I always suggest asking what paint history the vehicles has gone through so you understand if there was any prior bodyshop/detailing work on the paint. Also the ultrasonic meters can measure each film build exactly, but they run $1500+



.03 is really really the most you should even consider going down on the vehicle. Take you measurements all over the vehicle to get an idea of the film build and make an educated guess.

 

[howareb]

I own a Phase II PTG- 3500 and I have been very happy with it for the most part. I use it, of course, to evaulate customer cars, before I start to work on them. (TDEKANY turned me on to this model.)



However, the ultrasonic models have peaked my intrest, because there are times that I cannot properly evaulate a car when I am dealing with fiberglass or plastic materials. If I am going to invest in an ultrasonic model, one feature that I did wish to have is the ability to measure individual layer thicknesses in a multi-layer system. I have only found two meters than can do this. One is the Deflesko PosiTector 200 Advanced (C) and the other is the Olympus 25 Multi Plus (which I cannot find a price or a vendor to purchase from).



So my question is are there other ultrasonic models exsisting that have the ability to measure individual layer thicknesses or is the Deflesko 200(Advanced) the only way to go?

 

[Woob]

I own a Phase II PTG- 3500 and I have been very happy with it for the most part. I use it, of course, to evaulate customer cars, before I start to work on them. (TDKANY turned me on to this model.)



However, the ultrasonic models have peaked my intrest, because there are times that I cannot properly evaulate a car when I am dealing with fiberglass or plastic materials. If I am going to invest in an ultrasonic model, one feature that I did wish to have is the ability to measure individual layer thicknesses in a multi-layer system. I have only found two meters than can do this. One is the Deflesko PosiTector 200 Advanced (C) and the other is the Olympus 25 Multi Plus (which I cannot find a price or a vendor to purchase from).



So my question is are there other ultrasonic models exsisting that have the ability to measure individual layer thicknesses or is the Deflesko 200(Advanced) the only way to go?

Defelsko 200/1600 Models are the way to go, they are used by alot of the UK detailers. Are you going to sell your Phase II? Do you have the probes? Considering grabbing one for 445 with the probe since alot of people seem to think it's easier to manage.

 

[howareb]

Defelsko 200/1600 Models are the way to go, they are used by alot of the UK detailers. Are you going to sell your Phase II? Do you have the probes? Considering grabbing one for 445 with the probe since alot of people seem to think it's easier to manage.

Are you going to sell your Phase II?



I may. I just got it though, so it is basically brand new.



Do you have the probes?



I have the model without the probe. What is easer than one hand-operation.

 

[Accumulator]

I have the model without the probe. What is easer than one hand-operation.

That's gonna be a personal-preference thing. I'm certain that the probe-on-a-cable model is the right one for *me*, but I can sure see somebody else going the other way. I will say that not having to bend around to read it when testing awkward spots is nice though



I got mine back (well, got a replacement) but I won't be getting around to trying it for a little while.

 

[carcat1]

That's gonna be a personal-preference thing. I'm certain that the probe-on-a-cable model is the right one for *me*, but I can sure see somebody else going the other way. I will say that not having to bend around to read it when testing awkward spots is nice though

The Elcometer 311 Milgage will hold the reading long enough, so that you can bring it up to your eyes to read the number. There is no need to bend around awkward spots to do testings. All the top professional-grade gauges above $600 could do that.



If you're on a budget, the HighLine paint thickness meter that Greg Nichols mentioned above can't be beat. It's hard to believe they'll be able to sell those gauges for such a low price for long - considering it is basically the same item as those stated above going for $379-$449.

 

[Accumulator]

The Elcometer 311 Milgage will hold the reading long enough, so that you can bring it up to your eyes to read the number. There is no need to bend around awkward spots to do testings. All the top professional-grade gauges above $600 could do that...

Eh...I didn't express myself well :think: If/when I'm taking a number of measurements on awkward-to-access panels, I like being able to hold the readout in one hand (where I can see it) while moving the probe around with the other.



Again, it's just a matter of what one person does/doesn't like and what seems awkward/convenient to *me* might seem the opposite to somebody else.

 

[Greg Nichols]

I'm really getting use to the Highline I have, I think its the best bang for the buck. It has all the same functions and standards as more high priced ones.



GREG

 

[imported_Denzil]

Ooh, a High-Line gauge as an alternative! $279.99 is a much more reasonable price, hehe. Maybe I'll be able to purchase one sooner than I thought.



So is it really that good Greg?



Did anyone catch this from eBay? Seems like a pretty good buy. :xyxthumbs

 

[Woob]

I don't like the color orange...

 

[SuperBee364]

I'm really getting use to the Highline I have, I think its the best bang for the buck. It has all the same functions and standards as more high priced ones.



GREG

Greg, does this model just give you one reading for total coating thickness (primer, base, and clear coat added up to one number). Or does it just give you the thickness of the top-most (clear coat) layer?

 

[Accumulator]

I'm really getting use to the Highline I have..

Glad you got the right gauge for you. Sorry I wasn't of much help during your selection process...the whole thing sorta got back-burnered for me after my first PhaseII went inop.

 

[howareb]

Greg, does this model just give you one reading for total coating thickness (primer, base, and clear coat added up to one number). Or does it just give you the thickness of the top-most (clear coat) layer?

Forgive me for answering for Greg, but this meter gives the total coating thickness.

 

[SuperBee364]

No worries, Howareb, thanks.



The search continues, then, for one that will only give the thickness of the topmost layer, without being as pricey as the Defelsko.