Paint haze

B

BLACKWRX

New member
everytime i do a full exterior detail on a car i get haze......
1. wash car
2. clean paint
3. optimium polish/compound for scratch and swirl removal, mixed with ssr2.5, 50/50(a mix reduses dust) i use a rotory for the swirls and scratches,
4. then i go over again with the pc to light the minor swirls from the rotory
5 buff dry with pc
then i wax with either mothers carnuba liquid wax or pinnacle liquid wax
6 buff with pc
wait about 20 minutes......HAZE
wipe down
MORE HAZE
its like it grows on the car?????
i dont know what to do. i always leave an extra mf in the car....i tell the customers.. do to the multiple applications of products it may take up to 24 hours for the paint to cure, during the curing process the paint may haze, so heres a rag to wipe the residue....
can someone help me?:yay
 
BLACKWRX said:
everytime i do a full exterior detail on a car i get haze......
1. wash car
2. clean paint
3. optimium polish/compound for scratch and swirl removal, mixed with ssr2.5, 50/50(a mix reduses dust) i use a rotory for the swirls and scratches,
4. then i go over again with the pc to light the minor swirls from the rotory
5 buff dry with pc
then i wax with either mothers carnuba liquid wax or pinnacle liquid wax
6 buff with pc
wait about 20 minutes......HAZE
wipe down
MORE HAZE
its like it grows on the car?????
i dont know what to do. i always leave an extra mf in the car....i tell the customers.. do to the multiple applications of products it may take up to 24 hours for the paint to cure, during the curing process the paint may haze, so heres a rag to wipe the residue....
can someone help me?:yay
Click to expand...
Years ago, I used a glaze followed with a wax and had vey bad hazing from the combination. I no longer remember what the products were, but the point I'm trying to make is that not all products are compatible with each other.
You may need to change your product combination.
Got a few questions and comments.
"2. clean paint" How and with what?
"3. Mixed Optimum and Poorboy's" Are you comfortable being an experimental chemist? I don't think I would mix two different products and then use the resultant mixture. Not even if they were from the same manufacturer.
4. Used the PC with what product for the swirls? Are you using the same Optimum/Poorboy's mixture?
5. What is "buff dry with pc"? What needed to be buffed dry?

One of the first things I think I would do is use either the Optimum or the Poorboys alone. Try it on one panel and see what happens. Follow up with a less abrasive polish and then apply the wax.

Charles
 
The extra buffing would be a tell for me. Am not sure of the need for dry buffing if you have MF towels to take residue off after application.

Have read of other detailers mixing product but I am again with CharlesW. Mixing is not something that I choose to do.
 
i would imagine the mixing of the two products might cause the hazing.....but the ssr 2.5 has serious dust issues, add the optimum and no dust, ........and i use the pc on low speed to remove the wax with a mf (buff dry)
 
It sounds like you have some residual product left on the paint....either from the polish or wax....

buy if your using the buffer to remove the products with a MF bonnet..that may be your problem...you may be getting build up on the bonnet and just respreading it....

try to remove the products by hand with a MF towel and keep switching to a clean side...to eliminate any build up on the towel and sorta respreading it....

also keep the wax layers thin....to thick offers no more than a thin layer...just more residue to remove and chance of smearing

Al
 
Wipe down the paint with ISO alcohol and water 50:50 before you wax. This will clean the surface and make it ready for wax/sealant to bond to it. If you still get the hazing, and it wasn't there before you waxed and was after, swith to a different wax or sealant.
 
Wipe down the paint with ISO alcohol and water 50:50 before you wax. This will clean the surface and make it ready for wax/sealant to bond to it. If you still get the hazing, and it wasn't there before you waxed and was after, swith to a different wax or sealant.
Click to expand...
thats a good tip...i will have to try that
 
BLACKWRX said:
i dont know what to do. i always leave an extra mf in the car....i tell the customers.. do to the multiple applications of products it may take up to 24 hours for the paint to cure, during the curing process the paint may haze, so heres a rag to wipe the residue....
can someone help me?:yay
Click to expand...

This is what I wrote about some time back is there a cure time for products, in particular I was writing about, after I finish the car it looks great but about a hour or so later or when a small amount of dust gets on the car, I can see a smeary / hazing if you will....What Steve @ PB said is there is a cure time where the products solvents and such are evaporating, he suggested a col water rince right after... I have found that my car always looks better the next day or even after the next wash...as an experiment I did my black BMW two weeks ago P-w-C and Natty's....then after rinsed the car with cold water in the driveway...dried back up and used a little QD to make sure there where no spots...and the smeary / hazing was gone


http://www.detailcity.org/forums/lsps-last-step-products/18539-do-you-think-there-settle-down-period.html?highlight=cure+time
 
thanks for the link.......another thing is after applying the products how long should i wait before removing them....i normally wait 15 to 20 minutes, i also noticed for some reason i get the most haze on overcast days, almost like the product never dries or evaporates, overcast days are great for application but not for removal
 
AL-53 said:
It sounds like you have some residual product left on the paint....either from the polish or wax....

buy if your using the buffer to remove the products with a MF bonnet..that may be your problem...you may be getting build up on the bonnet and just respreading it....

try to remove the products by hand with a MF towel and keep switching to a clean side...to eliminate any build up on the towel and sorta respreading it....

also keep the wax layers thin....to thick offers no more than a thin layer...just more residue to remove and chance of smearing

Al
Click to expand...

I agree with AL... I remove EVERYTHING by hand... Next time you detail, use a good paint cleanser and re-wax applying the wax with the PC and then remove only by hand with a good plush mf towel.
 
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