Paint correction on Single Stage Paint `86 4Runner. Any advice or thoughts on approach or LSP welcome!

briarpatch said:
....really like Petes 53....IMO....one of the most underrated waxes out there
Click to expand...

yeah... I was looking for something similar to Fuzion (a stupid easy to use WOWO product) without the steep price for my Challenger. Not exactly cheap but the price was tolerable. I probably would say that I still like Fuzion better overall between the two but Pete`s is a close second. I really didn`t want to waste it on the T4R especially using it as a sort of AIO to help remove the oxidation but I needed a fast and easy solution at the time. ....never really got around to using until then.

More recently I used my FK1000P for that purpose on the truck. ....worked quite well.
 
Meguiar`s M03 is functionally nonabrasive in-and-of itself, though the pad might contribute a little cut. Back in the day we added corn starch to it to provide a little cut (don`t try this at home kids, at least not now in the 21st century).

IME it`s utterly useless/worse on b/c but still VG on some single-stage and more user-friendly than M07.

M09 is so minimally abrasive as to do virtually zero actual correction unless used quite aggressively, but it does do some concealing and AFAIK it still contains the same TSO as M07/M03.

So on ss paint, using M09 and then M03 (be gentle with the latter so it doesn`t disturb the residual M09 stuff), and then topping with a low-solvent LSP can be a good, if temporary approach. It`s not what I do on my ss Jag, but that`s just me on that car. Honestly...I haven`t used my M03/M05/M07/M09/M81 for ages.

For oxidation, none of these products strike me as appropriate (and I tried such stuff back in the day when ss oxidation was a regular issue). I`d rather use something with strong chemical cleaners or else just cut through it with something that`s reasonably abrasive. The old M02 used to be great for that on both counts, although it was some pretty harsh stuff...no idea whether they even still make it or whether it still has the same chemical cleaners post VOC-regulations.
 
Thank you, Accumulator, for the additional info. :) What the heck is this "corn starch" you speak of anyway? hehe., Just messing,

I found M09 to not be enough for what I was using it for, and shelved it. M205 met my needs that day.

QUESTION: do modern b/c paints even oxidize? Or does the clear coat just fail?
 
JustJesus said:
I found M09 to not be enough for what I was using it for, and shelved it. M205 met my needs that day.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that makes sense. I was happier with my M09 when I quit using it as a "swirlmark remover" and started using it as a "glaze". And heh heh...I got into some, uhm...discussions...about how Meguiar`s uses certain words ;)

QUESTION: do modern b/c paints even oxidize? Or does the clear coat just fail?
Click to expand...

Yeah, they oxidize, but not as readily as most ss. The oxidized b/c paint on some of my used-vehicle purchases had them looking like there was a milky film on the paint: dark blue looking light gray (`93 Audi) ; silver looking nearly white (Tahoe).
 
Accumulator said:
Yeah, that makes sense. I was happier with my M09 when I quit using it as a "swirlmark remover" and started using it as a "glaze". And heh heh...I got into some, uhm...discussions...about how Meguiar`s uses certain words ;)
Click to expand...

I know what you mean, though I haven`t had similar discussions :)



Yeah, they oxidize, but not as readily as most ss. The oxidized b/c paint on some of my used-vehicle purchases had them looking like there was a milky film on the paint: dark blue looking light gray (`93 Audi) ; silver looking nearly white (Tahoe).
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. That`s odd about those color changing cars! well, yeah. hehe. I guess upkeep is important, eh
 
Accumulator said:
Yeah, they oxidize, but not as readily as most ss. The oxidized b/c paint on some of my used-vehicle purchases had them looking like there was a milky film on the paint: dark blue looking light gray (`93 Audi) ; silver looking nearly white (Tahoe).
Click to expand...

....the 90s bring back some bad memories of paint problems during that time.
 
Kean said:
....the 90s bring back some bad memories of paint problems during that time.
Click to expand...

In all fairness, the `93 Audi has held up well considering what it went through with the original owner and her "detailer" (scare-quotes intentional..[freakin`] hack killed every panel and it always looked like [crap] when he was done anyhow).

Worse is my `85 Jag`s Rhodium Silver single stage metallic lacquer. So problematic that they discontinued it...mine was (partially) repainted *THREE* different times during manufacture and again at point-of-import (and yeah it shows, always did even when showroom new). The paint continues to fail and nobody will mix a lacquer-based match for it these days, not that I`d know which panel to have them match anyhow.

Sorry about the rant :o The Jag`s been bugging me for 31 years now, total mess but I *LOVE* how that particular paint looks on that particular car..wouldn`t own it in b/c or even a modern ss like urethane, it`s gotta look JUST SO to be my Wayback Machine.
 
Yeah, I just remember my black `93 Silverado that developed crows feet regardless of the care I provided it. ....perhaps due in part to some of the changes the manufacturers were going through in paint technology at the time.
 
Kean said:
Yeah, I just remember my black `93 Silverado that developed crows feet regardless of the care I provided it. ....
Click to expand...

On my Jag I call that "patina" and say it`s a feature as it speaks to the car`s originality :D

But yeah, some of GMs early b/c paints were just awful...look at how nasty Buick GNs always are even when stored since new.
 
My `89 Cadillac has crows feet on one panel as well. I think it was due to a paint defect that year. It`s been there since the car was at least five years old so I have to dismiss it as patina as well.
 
Thanks everyone for all the tips. I spent the day washing, decontaminating the paint, and started polishing. There was a ton of tar and fall out on this beast.
Finished up the roof, hood, and front passenger and driver fenders.

EDIT: In the end I went with Perfecting Cream, PB Black Hole as a glaze, and PB-Ex Sealant with Carnauba.



















 
RaydiantDetail said:
Thanks everyone for all the tips. I spent the day washing, decontaminating the paint, and started polishing. There was a ton of tar and fall out on this beast.
Finished up the roof, hood, and front passenger and driver fenders...
Click to expand...


SS red is kinda gratifying to work, huh? You can really *SEE* the progress...

.. In the end I went with Perfecting Cream, PB Black Hole as a glaze, and PB-Ex Sealant with Carnauba.
Click to expand...

How did the Perfecting Cream work correction-wise?
 
Accumulator said:
SS red is kinda gratifying to work, huh? You can really *SEE* the progress...



How did the Perfecting Cream work correction-wise?
Click to expand...

Yes, super gratifying! Its a night an day difference especially when you start seeing the true paint colour pop through. Perfecting cream worked very well. it didnt remove alot of the other larger defects ofcourse but I think for what the client wanted which was really oxidation removal it did great. I also ended up using the Rupes Keramik Fine Polish (Yellow) with my nano and lhr75e as well and that also did a nice job. I love the Boss creams though, super long working times and no dusting even outside in the sun.

Its taken a long time. Its a beast of a car but I finally finished today on the paint. 16 hours total and I am beat lol.
Still need to finish up the trim but I am happy with the results. I think next time I need a helper for this size of vehicle lol.
 
Here are some post correction and PB glaze, the PB EX Sealant is curing. This is the 2nd coat of PB EX sealant I applied. This stuff is awesome and love that it can go on nicely in the sun as well. I let it cure for an hour then wiped off. Wipe off was very easy as well.















EDIT: I will post some final photo`s tomorrow after the trim restoration but all in all this was a really fun and challenging project.
 
RaydiantDetail- Heh heh, glad you could call it "fun"! Sounds like you`re really dialed-on on what products work best for you under your conditions.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top