Pad recommendations for Single Stage 87 Carrera?

LeMarque

LeMarque

New member
After oiling up this Guards Red Porsche (it's the poster child for oxidation), I'm thinking I can stay with M205 for most of the correcting - although D300 would make quick work of the RIDS and swirls. But I'm hoping for suggestions for pads. My arsenal is mainly B&S and a mixture of MF cutting. But I've got the time to order something else in if that's the consensus.

Any suggestions appreciated.
 
Same pads that you'd use for the BC/CC jobs. The only real difference is your pads are going to be the same color as the car within seconds.
 
Yep just prepare to have contaminated pads when you're finished, and don't forget to post pics!
 
Mbkite said:
Cover it with meguirs #7 hand glaze let it sit over night and add more to remove feed the paint..
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Any more info on this technique I have heard of this before, feeding the paint before you try to correct it with single stage paints. Benifits? Easy? Glaze then Polish? Glaze then glaze then polish? Glaze then cut then Polish? Just wondering I have bunch single stage mack trucks and few are really bad one I am having trouble getting it back to a very good shine looks ok but seems the paint has really dried out almost dead just eats up product absorbing it.
 
"OP" like they said be ready to change and wash pad a lot if its badly oxidized. Also I found the foam works better can absorb and old more of the paint, The MF pads I have seemed to gum right up in seconds with all the paint that comes off especially on first pass.
 
Thanks guys.

Did a test spot first with D300 and an OPTI MF pad; 3 passes and it removed a bit less than a tenth of a mil.

Just finished the #7 routine. Lot of work; let's hope it was worth it.

The car has lots of door dings, etc. but I'll post pics in a week or so.
 
trashmanssd said:
Any more info on this technique I have heard of this before, feeding the paint before you try to correct it with single stage paints. Benifits? Easy? Glaze then Polish? Glaze then glaze then polish? Glaze then cut then Polish? Just wondering I have bunch single stage mack trucks and few are really bad one I am having trouble getting it back to a very good shine looks ok but seems the paint has really dried out almost dead just eats up product absorbing it.
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Are you trying to just use a 1 step on this paint ? If it is heavily oxidized it is imperative that you are finishing with a separate clean pad if you really want good paint clarity. Once the pads begin to get loaded with product and paint you are going to end up with a lot of haze. Just make sure to change or clean pads very frequently with this type of paint.
 
trashmanssd said:
Any more info on this technique I have heard of this before, feeding the paint before you try to correct it with single stage paints. Benifits? Easy? Glaze then Polish? Glaze then glaze then polish? Glaze then cut then Polish? Just wondering I have bunch single stage mack trucks and few are really bad one I am having trouble getting it back to a very good shine looks ok but seems the paint has really dried out almost dead just eats up product absorbing it.
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I've been told that olive oil works as well as #7 - no joke.
 
bswombaugh said:
Are you trying to just use a 1 step on this paint ? If it is heavily oxidized it is imperative that you are finishing with a separate clean pad if you really want good paint clarity. Once the pads begin to get loaded with product and paint you are going to end up with a lot of haze. Just make sure to change or clean pads very frequently with this type of paint.
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D300 then polish then wax. Omitting of course all the in between wash steps. M205 can't cut the defects like I was hoping.

D300 took almost a tenth of a mil of the paint on my test spot! Going to be using LOTS of pads!
 
bswombaugh said:
Are you trying to just use a 1 step on this paint ? If it is heavily oxidized it is imperative that you are finishing with a separate clean pad if you really want good paint clarity. Once the pads begin to get loaded with product and paint you are going to end up with a lot of haze. Just make sure to change or clean pads very frequently with this type of paint.
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Most of the trucks one step has been fine they are garbage trucks so not looking for perfection just paint with a little life in it and be able to protect it after. But yeah I was going to try extra steps on this truck that is giving me hassles. After one pas on half the hood looks a lot better removed the oxidation but paint still looks faded and discolored may be to far gone this truck has looked this way for years but I can try anything because we planned on painting it this winter anyways so there is nothing I can do that one be able to be sanded and painted right over.
 
This thread has my attention since I've got an '88 Guards Red Carrera and have been trying to learn how to really do a good job on the paint. Its got a lot of miles but I've owned the car for 13 years or so and its been well cared for but I'd like to get the paint to really pop. I've clayed it and then used a mile cleaner (will have to check which one) and was was Griots Best of Show, however it can be really hard to remove sometimes. Am I doing something wrong or is that just normal? I think maybe Ineed to clean/change pads more often? I got the pads here and are all Lake County.
 
Strip the wax however you like clay etc then try Meguiars 07 . Use lots of it rub it in really well let it sit overnight and then buff it off. Single-stage needs those oils it will make it look spectacular. Then top it with your favorite lsp
 
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