Pad recommendations for Single Stage 87 Carrera?

LeMarque

LeMarque

New member
After oiling up this Guards Red Porsche (it's the poster child for oxidation), I'm thinking I can stay with M205 for most of the correcting - although D300 would make quick work of the RIDS and swirls. But I'm hoping for suggestions for pads. My arsenal is mainly B&S and a mixture of MF cutting. But I've got the time to order something else in if that's the consensus.


 


Any suggestions appreciated.
 
David Fermani said:
I'd try MF 1st. (my personal preference on Porsche paint). 
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 Me too.


 


Did a test spot first with D300 and an OPTI MF pad; 3 passes and it removed a bit less than a tenth of a mil and left the finish near LSP ready!


Just finished the #7 routine. Lot of work; let's hope it was worth it.


The car has lots of door dings, etc. but I'll post pics in a week or so.
 
LeMarque- Heh heh, reminds me of how Theal mixes Lindseed Oil with some of his compounds!  And a childhood friend's dad use to wipe down his beater with a mix of Turpentine and some kind of oil.  Sure didn't look Autopian but he got hundreds of thousands of miles out of it back when most cars rusted away in a few years.
 
Accumulator said:
LeMarque- Heh heh, reminds me of how Theal mixes Lindseed Oil with some of his compounds!  .
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 I read somewhere the major chem companies used Lindseed Oil/Flaxseed in there compounds years ago.


 


#7 did a spectacular job. It was a workout rubbing it in and buffing it it all off but it removed as much of the oxidation as my test spot with D300 and a MF pad; and you could hardly tell where my test spot was compared to the area around it after #7.


 


Now I'm wondering, since the 911 is going to be finished with OCP, whether or not I should just use the included PP to polish the car rather than starting with D300 and finishing with PP? :unsure:


 


The car has semi-numerous door dings - virtually no swirls! - just lots (too many to sand out) hairline scratches that even D300 can't correct and just a few a few areas that will need to be sanded; top of the front fenders for example.
 
LeMarque- you gotta school me here- what are OCP and PP?


 


And yeah...I wouldn't remove all those scratches anyhow, you'd just thin that paint more and speed the day when it needs repainted.  I live with the marring on my older Audi because I'd rather have imperfect original paint than risk having to refinish it.
 
Sent a reply via my phone but it looks like it didn't make it, so ...


 


Opti-Coat Pro and their included Primer Polish; which "leaves the paint ready for OCP" without having to use something like PrepWash
 
LeMarque- Ah, OK, gotcha.


 


To use the coating you'll have to strip off all the oils/etc. from the M07.  Eh, I dunno....I wouldn't go with a coating on old single stage myself as I wouldn't want to remove those oils.


 


I'm usually all about stripping off Meguiar's Trade Secret Oils, but on older single stage  I'd more likely do the old-school "feed the paint" thing.  But eh, that's just me...I don't even use sealants on my Jag's single stage.
 
I tend to agree but he saw my opti page on my website and doesn't want to have to go through removing the oxidation again. He says he's going to be buried in this car lol
 
Just to add I was questioning the single-stage myself but spoke with Chris Thomas and he said it would be a good way to go.
 
Sorry I'm juggling too many things the end of this week. Yes I will have to remove all the oils from the mo 7 I was referring to not having to remove whatever there polish might leave behind
 
There ya go Accumulator. You put the doubt back in my mind <_<


 


Do you think this paint formulation wouldn't play well with clear? What if a guy took his '87 to a paint shop to have clear sprayed on?
 
LaMarque- No, don't think about clearcoating factory ss.  Just keep it maintained and don't do anything that might mess with the originality.  Assuming it *is* factory paint (at least mostly), that's one of that car's greatest attributes!  It's only original once, after it's repainted it's just not the same (cars that were once ss, but where then repainted with b/c are a dime-a-dozen compared to those that still have ss).  Yeah, ss takes more maintenance, but that's just the nature of the beast.


 


Single stage paint is just *different* and it looks different.  That's one reason why Porsche kept using ss for certain colors long after they were basically switched over to b/c.  This car is....what?...Guard's Red?  That PIA, quick-to-oxidize, ss paint is a *feature* ;)
 
OK. So tag your it...


 


Yes Guard's Red. At least t is now :)


 


Since I'm really not going for 90% correction and I'm leaving the finish with it's 'character', is there a need to remove the polishing oils or can I just apply an LSP after say a light pass with Adapt or 205 or Menz, etc.


 


Which aslo makes me wonder if I'm using M205 for my version of a one step, why wash off the oils?
 
LeMarque- The oils from M205 will dissppate over time, and might make for an unexpected change.  But then any glaze oils from something like M07 would do that too sooner or later.  I tjhink we're on the same page there.


 


Hard to say...if it were mine I'd probably use a glaze + wax approach and redo both as needed, but that's me. The thing with ss is that it just needs more work, more often.  So I'd pick stuff that's user-friendly and do it pretty often.  Yeah, I know, most people don't want to do that, hence the popularity of b/c.
 
Well I passed your thoughts on to the customer. He's going to come by Monday and make a decision. If he chooses not to Opti-Coat, SOMEONE owes me a profitable job <_<
 
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