Pad angle, keep flat?

B

b34tBoX

New member
Was just curious. After reading some articles, they all seem to mention to keep the pad flat against the paint while using a rotary.

In my short experience, I've found it easier to have a slight angle on the foam pad, meaning, maybe 1/2 - 3/4 of the pad makes contact with the surface. I've found it more predictable and easier to control this way. Sometimes I will alternate what side of the pad I make contact with. ie. one pass favoring the right side (machine angled to the right) of the pad while spinning, then favoring the left side (machine angled to the left) of the pad while spinning.



I do the same thing with foamed-wool pads.



Is this incorrect? Should I really be using the pad 100% flat against the surface?
 
The issue from that technique is it leaves holograms and swirls. The more angle you have the more swirl marks you induce into the paint. Foam is a little more forgiving than wool in that regard but it will still happen.
 
I think its "as flat as possible" . I think its find to use whatever angle you need to remove the defects as long as you go back over with the pad flat.
 
AeroCleanse said:
I think its "as flat as possible" . I think its find to use whatever angle you need to remove the defects as long as you go back over with the pad flat.
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Perfectly Said!



Sometimes we need to polish using the edge of a foam pad or on an angle to get the level of correction desired in a tight spot or awkward angle, but as a rule of thumb do the best you can to at least refine the finish a bit more with the pad as flat as possible... I know some areas of cars make this tough to do but it will help with the hologram problem!
 
An open pad does not induce swirls any more than a closed or flat pad. It's not the angle of the pad but rather the pad and product itself that creates swirls, swirls being micro-scratches.



Curves, say on a Porsche, buff easier and better with a slightly open pad but larger flat panels get done faster with a flat pad. Obviously buffing at too much of an angle is ridiculous and dangerous.



If you're experiencing some pad hop then open the pad up just a tad. Watch the heat build up, keep a film barrier between pad and paint and always finish down properly.



Anthony
 
Anthony Orosco said:
An open pad does not induce swirls any more than a closed or flat pad. It's not the angle of the pad but rather the pad and product itself that creates swirls, swirls being micro-scratches.
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+1



An open pad face hits the paint the same as a flat pad, just less surface area/contact involved.
 
I posted this in another thread but it is useful here as well:



Another thing to do when buffing near edges and corners is to slow down the RPM (rotary) and *very* slightly tilt the pad as to take some of the down force off of the edge. That will slow down the heat build up on the thinner paint. Also, it will help keep the rotating pad from grabbing an uneven edge from one panel to another.



Other than that I try to keep the pad flat.
 
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