PAC shows you how... to shampoo your carpets in your driveway.

5

515colfelt

New member
Hi guys,

I've just started on the Klasse road and have found it pretty straightforward.Here's the story so far:

Washed and dried car, applied AIO using a damp mf pad (great to use).Buffed off AIO per quarter panel, making sure I covered every minor spot/blemish.I found it very easy to use, but it seems an extremely mild cleaner- some tiny tar spots needed pre treatment.

Applied SG using a hand foam pad very thinly-I could hardly see where I'd been!

Waited 1/2 hour then buffed off with a mf-quite difficult, but some Maguiars quik detailer helped removal.

Overall I was pleased with the way it went only using 1/2 ounce of AIO and 1/3 ounce of SG. It was a great help having ounce bottles to gauge the usage and mf towels that were very plush-Thanks YOSteve!



My only question is as my car is a daily driver I will have to layer the SG weekly. Can I use Maguiars Soft Wash gel to clean the car before putting another layer of S.G. on ? Will it still bond to the previous Layer?

Thanks in advance for your replies, Peter
 
As long as you don't put on any layers of carnuba wax or anything then the SG will bond just fine. :up A layer a week is a really good idea too. It gives the SG plenty of time to cure properly. Once you get to 4 or 5 layers then I would start layering a wax on it to enhance the shine. That is about the peak of SG shine from what I've seen. You could put more on if you want but 5 is about as much as you really need. :)
 
I started like you - and did a good bit of testing different techniques. Application of SG by dry foam pad makes it nearly impossible to get the SG on thin enough. Wet the pad with a spritz of detail spray per panel, then put 2-3 drops of SG on and go to work. I was also successful in using a soft pad + detail spray + Sg on the orbital. Worked great. Do NOT use a detail spray with wax in it! I used meguiar's Final Inspection - seemed to work great.

To buff out, a dry MF is nearly impossible. Thanks to ShowroomLincoln here, the winning combo is this: take 2 MF's. Wet one (plain old water) and wring it out well. Wipe off the cured SG with this towel, which will leave minute, fine streaks of water behind. Follow right behind with the dry MF wipe to get rid of this. works like a champ - basically effortless.

You WILL need good light to see the applied/unbuffed SG at all....

BTW - I documented all this testing if you (or others) care - here, a cupla months ago - in 4 threads:

Carguy Tries Klasse - Part 1 (pre-Klasse cleaning tests)

Carguy Tries Klasse - Part 2: AIO + 1st SG attempt

Sg Layer #2. still not entirely happy

SG Layer #3 - things are looking up
 
As far as protection is concerned, you'll probably be good for 6 months or so. They claim up to a year if you do AIO + SG.

But no true Autopian can go one month without applying something to their cars, so sure, layer away weekly if you'd like. It'll increase the longevity of the protection, and may give the paint a better "look." Plus, a week is a good interval to wait as it allows the previous layer to completely cure.



Longer drying times aid the removal of SG. When it's not completely dry, it's hard to remove because you're just spreading the product around again.



It depends on temp. and humidity conditions, but I usually wait at least a couple hours before removing SG. And it always comes off easily with a dry MF.
 
Lowejackson,

I'm in the UK two or three times a year, if you want to try Klasse I will bring you some. Or I will be glad to order and AIO and SG and bring it with me. My next trip is in August/ September, I wa just there last week.
 
I flew from maryland to Florida with Polish, cleaner, wax, whole bunch of misc (detailed Moms car in Fl) took up half my carry on bag.....this was after 911....

jeff
 
Even at the trade shows, some manufacturers have empty new bottles there because they had trouble getting the chemicals on the plane with petro. distillates and flammability warnings all over the bottle! Be careful.....
 
Steven,

It's very early days with the Klasse, but things are looking good with just one layer of S.G. at the moment. The smoothness of the paint is impressive( admittedly the car is only 8 months old) and the metallic element seems more pronounced, if you get what I'm saying.

I will try to post some pictures after the third layer of S.G.

We use Autoglym at work and it seems o.k. but the polishing action of Super resin is a bit strong for my liking. Superglym ( pink) for new cars is better but doesn't seem to last that long(IMHO) and smears like mad!

Hope this is of help, Peter ;)
 
James A,

thanks for the offer, let me know the next time your coming to the UK.



Peter

Thanks for the info, did you import this stuff or have you found a UK dealer?



Steven
 
Steven,

I ordered the Klasse from "Klasse direct" in the U.S. Delivery cost $38 + import duty,VAT etc.. over here. All in all about £90 ( I've got an understanding wife!)

Peter :up
 
PAC shows you how to shampoo your vehicle's carpets in your driveway!

There is no doubt that most effective method of shampooing carpets is to use a professional hot-water extractor and quality chemicals. For the do it yourself detailer the cost of these machines can be quite expensive. The following method of carpet shampooing requires fairly little tools, but does require a little patience and hard work. By being meticulous it is possible to achieve near professional results, and with constant up-cleaning it can be all the shampooing your vehicle will ever need.

Tools needed:

Several wash buckets.
A stiff carpet brush.
A fabric safe All Purpose Cleaner such as Optimum Power Clean or Meguiar's All Purpose Cleaner
A wet-dry vacuum cleaner such as shop vac.
Several old (but clean) terry towels.

Note: Always spot clean an inconspicuous area of the carpet first, looking for discoloration.

Start by vacuuming the carpet or upholstery thoroughly. Remove the floor mats for the vehicle (these will be cleaned in a separate manner covered in Part Two: PAC tells you how to shampoo your vehicle's floor mats in your driveway! ).

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After all of the surface dirt has been removed from the carpet scrub the carpet using a stiff brush. Push the bristles into the pile. A quick, brisk brushing will cause dirt that has been pushed into the pile of the carpet to come to the surface. It is amazing how much dirt can be trapped in a vacuumed carpet. If you haven't brushed your carpets before you may become discouraged at how much dirt is trapped and how difficult it is to remove. Vacuum again.

Heavily soiled carpets may require require alternating between brushing and vacuuming to thoroughly clean. Continue this step until dirt is no longer visible after brushing. A little patience will go a long way, and the quality of the result is determined by how thorough each step is completed.

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Now mix up the the cleaning solution. In this example I am using Meguiar's All Purpose Cleaner. I mix to 1 part APC with approximately 15 parts water, then blast with water to encourage an ample amount of suds.

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Optional: Mix a second bucket of just water.

Note: When extracting carpets with a machine it is best to use a low suds all purpose cleaner, such as Meguiar's APC +. When shampooing the carpets by hand, use the suds to scrub the carpet, which will keep it from getting overly wet.

Work a section at a time, such as the drivers carpet followed by the passenger side. First dip the brush into your wash solution, picking up equal parts suds and water. Now scrub in a slightly overlapping motion, working the shampoo solution into the carpet.

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Use the wet/dry vacuum to extract the solution quickly. Make sure to pass over and remove as much shampoo solution as possible.

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Optional: Dip the brush in the bucket of pure water. Remove as much excess water as possible by running the bristles again the edge of the bucket. Again lightly scrub the carpet using just water. This will help remove any excess soap residue that could cause the carpet to extract more dirt once it dries.

Then vacuum the carpet very carefully, removing as much water and residual shampoo as possible. Make slow passes over the carpet. At this point the carpet should feel damp.

Note: This second extraction of the carpet should take longer then the first and carpet should feel near dry when complete.

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Finally take a clean cotton terry towel and blot it thoroughly into the carpet to remove even more moisture. This will help reduce the chance of wicking. Wicking occurs when any dirt trapped deep in the carpet's pile is pulled to the top by a capillary action. The carpet appears to become soiled as it dries.

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This article should help many. Loads of info on exterior care, but hardly any on interior care

The title to this thread made me laugh out loud for some reason though


Trouble :-B
 
Thanks Todd for additional information that I didn't have for hand scrubbing the carpets (looks like the wife's car to me :toetap05:). Do you recommend using a wet/dry vac over something like a LGM/carpet cleaner (not the big boy extractors)?

Grungy
 
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