Generally, there are two types of "oxidation". (See attached photos)
One, simple oxidation. The lens is yellowed and cloudy. On vehicles like mid 90's mustangs, rangers, etc., we use a process involving a pre-treatment, oxidation remover especially designed for auto headlights, followed up with a shine restorer. Done.
On the other side of the spectrum, Caravans, Sebrings, Intrepids, Tauruses, and other models with the clear or "crystalline" headlights, it's a little more complicated. The surface of the lens will appear cloudy and feel very rough. The simple oxidation rem over method will not work on these lenses. This is cause by the plasticizers migrating to the surface of the lens. On close inspection, you will see very very small etching throughout the lens. Like little cracks everywhere. You may even see what's called a "net line" (pronounced nit), or "well line", a line running horizontally from one side of the lens to the other. Somtimes the oxidation is worse on one side of the net line. Net lines are what happens when the plastic, lexan, acrylic, whatever are injected into the mold. Where the plastic meets together inside the mold, it forms this line.
What's happening with these lights, and more specifically, 95-01 Chryslers, is the UV resins are evaporating into the air, the platicizers migrate to the surface, and bam... ugly, UNSAFE lights.
Simple. Clean using pretreatment, wetsand using 600, 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper, clean with PT again, buff with oxidation remover, clean again with PT, apply deep fill, then several coats of shine restorer. It's easy, quick, and permanent. Sorry for the long post. Mike R.