Oxidized Ford Mustang

OllieJay

New member
This is a Work in progress and thought I would give you guys a sneak peek on what I'm working on, I'll call this one Project: OXYCLEAN haha. This Mustang belongs to a friend of mine so I told him that I wouldn't mind working on it to see what kind of a result I could get. It sits uninsured in the garage so I just slowly started working on it.



Before



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After using riccardo clay I then went to work using my 9227c with the Meguiars heavy cut wool pad + M105. The results = pathetic. The product dried up so fast and no cutting power leaving the paint with a white haze, I couldn't figure it out! Maybe I doing somerthing wrong?

I soon realized that this paint was extremely oxidized and the oxidation had gone through a fair amount of paint.



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I stopped wasting my time and went straight for the wet sanding, start off with 1000grit, but it literally just didn't cut it!



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The end result from just 1000 grit, the inner left side turned out pretty good but still oxidation on the outter left side...



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So with poor results from the 1000- I got straight to it with 800grit!



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The results were much better it cut through most of the the oxidation, I just had to be careful not to go right through the paint as there was little to spare.



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The 800grit was followed by the 1000 which was then followed by M105 & Meg. heavy cut wool pad, then M205 with orange light cutting pad.



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The results: much better...the paint was alive again with just some minor oxidation left behind. I didn't want to go any further as I don't have a paint gauge & would probably go right through the paint.



M205 w/ lake country 8" orange light cut pad



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AFTER:



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WhyteWizard said:
So, you're cutting with 800 grit sandpaper and going straight to polishing and you think oxidation is your problem. Is that right?



Robert



It says he tried 1000, and that didn't cut it, so he went to 800, then back to 1000, and then buffed it with M105/ megs red wool pad? Not just 800 then polish.
 
Tru_Shine said:
It says he tried 1000, and that didn't cut it, so he went to 800, then back to 1000, and then buffed it with M105/ megs red wool pad? Not just 800 then polish.





Do you know anyone who starts buffing from a 1000 grit scratch?



Robert
 
WhyteWizard said:
Do you know anyone who starts buffing from a 1000 grit scratch?



Robert



Definitely not. Ive buffed over 1500 before but not 1000. but I would prefer a 2000 grit final.
 
That doesn't look like oxidation. It looks like clear coat failure. Depending on how much you charge per hour, it might actually be cheaper to bring the car to a body shop and have it repainted. I'm honestly shocked you were able to get any shine out it. The problem is that it won't last. This would be one of those cars that I would send directly to a body shop for a repaint.
 
Tru Shine and mini1,



Exactly my point. I was being a bit tongue in cheek with my previous response. I wasn't trying to be rude, just goofing a bit, but if you think you're problem with that car is oxidation that's your problem, lol.



Jetwash, get thee to a paint shop dude.



Robert
 
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