Wow... my head is spinning after finding this place. I have always tried to keep my vehicles looking clean, never to the level of you folks. I don't have fancy vehicles but they are mine and want to keep them as nice as I can. I have typically washed them every week to two weeks, Meguiars Gold Class wash, a couple different tire shine products and followed by Lucas Slick Mist afterwards. All OTC items. Well, the other day I decided it was time to give my pick up a wax, 2001 Ford Crew Cab - Black. Went to the local store, picked up a bottle of SmartWax(new product to them and me), a couple pad and buffing towels and went at it. After I was done I stand back and look the pick up over and realize the hood is a danged train wreck. It is full of nicks, imperfections and just neglected and I feel like a idiot. So I think to myself, gonna have to try "that clay bar thing" I've heard about. Decided to do some looking on the internet and find this place and have been reading for about two days. Now I'm probably more confused then I thought I could be to begin with. I have access to what I thought was a decent OTC selection but I have never heard of the products most talk of on here. I'm not opposed to buying what I need, but now I'm wondering where to start. I have always hated the bundled packages of one size fits all, but it almost seems like that is what a "green" guy like me needs for starting into a more serious dive into auto care. Ok, so after this mindless garble, is doing the clay bar where I need to start? If so, I believe I have access locally to the Meguiars clar bar for sure. I know there are more at Wal-mart and Bomgaars, my local outlets. I will hopefully get some responses, in the mean time I'm gonna go read up on how wrong I've been washing vehicles for the last 20 years. TIA
Overwhelmed
- Thread starter screeby
- Start date
Nth Degree
New member
Welcome, screeby
Clay is a good place to start. Something OTC like Meguiar's or Mother's is fine for a noob.
If you are starting with a small budget I would recommend focusing on the washing & drying items you will need to maintain the vehicle. Things like:
2 buckets
grit guards
a good car shampoo
maybe a rinseless wash too
a couple good drying towels
a good wash mitt or other media
lots of MF towels.
After that the budget tends to jump a bit for a polisher & pads. You'll probably quickly decide you want them. That's when you know the affliction has taken a firm hold.
Don't get too caught up in all the different products you read about. Most are good and will do a great job at what they are designed for. People have their preferences for different reasons. Often times the differences between similar products are so small that the average person would probably not notice unless they were applied side by side and in the right light. Some of us work on many cars per week and different products will be chosen based upon the car, the color, the level of the detail, etc.
Start with a good wash & clay and keep reading. The more you know, the better your questions will be. (More specific questions tend to get more and better responses than broad, general ones.) People here are willing to help but get bored answering the same, broad questions over and over again.
And one more tip: break up you posts into paragraphs. It makes it easier to read and will result in more people reading and responding. Many people see a big paragraph and simply hit the back button. If they can quickly scan the post for the pertinent information they will be more likely to respond.
Clay is a good place to start. Something OTC like Meguiar's or Mother's is fine for a noob.
If you are starting with a small budget I would recommend focusing on the washing & drying items you will need to maintain the vehicle. Things like:
2 buckets
grit guards
a good car shampoo
maybe a rinseless wash too
a couple good drying towels
a good wash mitt or other media
lots of MF towels.
After that the budget tends to jump a bit for a polisher & pads. You'll probably quickly decide you want them. That's when you know the affliction has taken a firm hold.
Don't get too caught up in all the different products you read about. Most are good and will do a great job at what they are designed for. People have their preferences for different reasons. Often times the differences between similar products are so small that the average person would probably not notice unless they were applied side by side and in the right light. Some of us work on many cars per week and different products will be chosen based upon the car, the color, the level of the detail, etc.
Start with a good wash & clay and keep reading. The more you know, the better your questions will be. (More specific questions tend to get more and better responses than broad, general ones.) People here are willing to help but get bored answering the same, broad questions over and over again.
And one more tip: break up you posts into paragraphs. It makes it easier to read and will result in more people reading and responding. Many people see a big paragraph and simply hit the back button. If they can quickly scan the post for the pertinent information they will be more likely to respond.
10-4, Thanks for the reply. I will attempt to do a better job posting. I am going to get some new items and get after this next weekend. My process will be as follows
1-Wash with my regular wash (have a question on this)
2-Clay Bar
3-Polish (have a question on this as well)
4-Wax
When washing, is it ok to use a power washer to wet and then rinse? I've done some searches on it and can't really find what I'm looking for I guess.
I have learned I need a polish then a wax. I am leaning towards the SmartWax line, it is available and can be used by hand.
I have been washing my vehicles where I work, the wash bay is warm in the winter and has a power washer.
Hopefully I can get a grasp on this in it's basic sense and then tackle the wife's Edge.
TIA
1-Wash with my regular wash (have a question on this)
2-Clay Bar
3-Polish (have a question on this as well)
4-Wax
When washing, is it ok to use a power washer to wet and then rinse? I've done some searches on it and can't really find what I'm looking for I guess.
I have learned I need a polish then a wax. I am leaning towards the SmartWax line, it is available and can be used by hand.
I have been washing my vehicles where I work, the wash bay is warm in the winter and has a power washer.
Hopefully I can get a grasp on this in it's basic sense and then tackle the wife's Edge.
TIA
Nth Degree
New member
Pressure pre-rinse is good. Just don't get too close. I prefer a low pressure post-rinse, but that is pure preference based upon efficiency. For your own car do whatever you find works best. I also suggest a final "flood rinsing".
If there is mud or large particles, some might recommend a low pressure rinse before the pressure washer, as there could be some risk of "sand blasting". I personally just increase my distance in those circumstances.
Correct about polish, then wax/sealant. The former cleans or abrades the paint while the latter seals/protects. It has been the topic of discussion many times about the frustration with the interchangeable use of the words by manufacturers causing confusion for the novice.
Don't worry about trying to correct any swirls or scratches by hand. Focus on cleaning and masking/filling for the time being (a cleaner wax or All-In-One like Optimum Poli-Seal might be a good way to go). I would say you are better off getting a second job for a month to afford a polisher rather than trying to level paint by hand. The time you would spend would be about the same and still not achieve the results a machine can achieve.
Baby steps will prevent you being overwhelmed. Some people get ahead of themselves with a plan before even having a proper assessment of the paint. Each time you take a step forward you are likely to find you have more questions, so focus on one thing at a time. And always test a small area before tackling the whole car. I hear a lot of people say "I spent all weekend, thought I was doing a good job, then pulled it out in the sun and realized I missed something and have to start all over again".
If there is mud or large particles, some might recommend a low pressure rinse before the pressure washer, as there could be some risk of "sand blasting". I personally just increase my distance in those circumstances.
Correct about polish, then wax/sealant. The former cleans or abrades the paint while the latter seals/protects. It has been the topic of discussion many times about the frustration with the interchangeable use of the words by manufacturers causing confusion for the novice.
Don't worry about trying to correct any swirls or scratches by hand. Focus on cleaning and masking/filling for the time being (a cleaner wax or All-In-One like Optimum Poli-Seal might be a good way to go). I would say you are better off getting a second job for a month to afford a polisher rather than trying to level paint by hand. The time you would spend would be about the same and still not achieve the results a machine can achieve.
Baby steps will prevent you being overwhelmed. Some people get ahead of themselves with a plan before even having a proper assessment of the paint. Each time you take a step forward you are likely to find you have more questions, so focus on one thing at a time. And always test a small area before tackling the whole car. I hear a lot of people say "I spent all weekend, thought I was doing a good job, then pulled it out in the sun and realized I missed something and have to start all over again".
Good info. I agree about a polisher, it is something I want. I haven't searched that yet on this forum, any "entry level" polishers out there to keep an eye out for?
I am thinking I am going to start by hand this coming weekend on the tail gate. There is already a spot where a pine tree jumped up behind me at work where I parked for the day and destroyed a 1 inch by 2 inch area. I can't hurt it any more then what it is now. I don't wanna tackle the entire truck by hand, after going around it once the other day I was hurting. Going around it twice would be killer...
Am I just nuts if I just wash the tail gate for this project to start with? Just thinking it would pick up the entire process time wise as I will have some time restrictions at some point (baby) and this is almost more of an experiment.
Although it feels like I am still dumb, thanks for taking the time to spell this all out for me.
I am thinking I am going to start by hand this coming weekend on the tail gate. There is already a spot where a pine tree jumped up behind me at work where I parked for the day and destroyed a 1 inch by 2 inch area. I can't hurt it any more then what it is now. I don't wanna tackle the entire truck by hand, after going around it once the other day I was hurting. Going around it twice would be killer...
Am I just nuts if I just wash the tail gate for this project to start with? Just thinking it would pick up the entire process time wise as I will have some time restrictions at some point (baby) and this is almost more of an experiment.
Although it feels like I am still dumb, thanks for taking the time to spell this all out for me.
Accumulator
Well-known member
screeby said:
Even just doing the tailgate might be a bit much!
No, you're not nuts, you just have other priorities
Welcome to Autopia!
screeby said:
this package deal would be an excellent option and a great start, just pick up two more pads of each color....
HD Car Care / 3D International, LLC
btw... :welcome !
Nanolex US
New member
Hello and welcome aboard.
I have no problem killing some time in the garage this weekend. I am more concerned about this crazy danged weather here. Snow and melt, snow and melt. The vehicles are just taking a beating.
I still think I am going to attack the tail gate, it is in rough shape as it stands and I can't hardly hurt it more then it is. That may sound ignorant but I really want to try this just for piece of mind. Almost just to prove it to myself.
I really want that polishing package. Once I purchase something like that I can only image my questions then. Y'all will be banning me.
I still think I am going to attack the tail gate, it is in rough shape as it stands and I can't hardly hurt it more then it is. That may sound ignorant but I really want to try this just for piece of mind. Almost just to prove it to myself.
I really want that polishing package. Once I purchase something like that I can only image my questions then. Y'all will be banning me.
Batt4Christ
New member
That kit seems to be pretty decent (by posts on this site), and the Harbor Freight DA machine apparently comes from the same factory... And can be a bit less expensive (but doesn't come w/pads and such). Either way- would save you a LOT of labor!
As far as startin with a single panel (tailgate or hood, or...)- that is not a problem at all. Not a bad way to get started without getting overloaded.
As far as startin with a single panel (tailgate or hood, or...)- that is not a problem at all. Not a bad way to get started without getting overloaded.
I got a hold of a buddy with a 6" DA. With that news in hand, I purchased Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Wax. I will be tackling the tail gate.
Trying to read techniques as much as possible. I know reading and watching is nothing like years of hands on, I will really try to do less rather then more. No pressure, keep moving and try to be as steady as possible. Somewhat the same theory as painting to a point.
Any other tips for the first time, fire away.
Trying to read techniques as much as possible. I know reading and watching is nothing like years of hands on, I will really try to do less rather then more. No pressure, keep moving and try to be as steady as possible. Somewhat the same theory as painting to a point.
Any other tips for the first time, fire away.
Nth Degree
New member
Some pressure is good. You want the pad to rotate freely, but not spin out of control. Always have the pad in contact with the paint when starting and stopping the machine and keep the pad flat to the surface.
Accumulator
Well-known member
screeby- You'll quickly discover that you do need to apply pressure in order to make good headway. The idea of "let the product do all the work"/use no applied pressure just doesn't pan out.
If you use the Ultimate Compound, I'd absolutely follow up with the Ultimate Polish. I know some people say the UC finishes out OK, but I'd still want to do the second step before waxing.
If you use the Ultimate Compound, I'd absolutely follow up with the Ultimate Polish. I know some people say the UC finishes out OK, but I'd still want to do the second step before waxing.
Should have began with that I also have purchased the Meguiar's clay bar which will be used first. I am going back to ensure that they have the Ultimate Polish. I don't remember seeing it.
If they don't have the UP, will a Mother's product work?
I know I want a polish. I just about grabbed the Meguiar's Cleaner Wax as it appears to be an all in one. I know the end product will not be as nice, but for the first time, it would have probably been the proper choice to learn with.
If they don't have the UP, will a Mother's product work?
I know I want a polish. I just about grabbed the Meguiar's Cleaner Wax as it appears to be an all in one. I know the end product will not be as nice, but for the first time, it would have probably been the proper choice to learn with.
Accumulator
Well-known member
screeby said:
I haven't used the Meguiar's clay (my OTC clay is Mothers), but it oughta work fine.
Sorry, I don't know :nixweiss
Nah, I would *NOT* bother stepping down to an OTC cleaner wax. No way :grinno:
Besides the Ultimate Polish, there's also Meguiar's Scratch-X to consider. But *don't* buy Deep Crystal Polish.
Dan
Well-known member
The Meg's maroon paste cleaner wax isn't horrible. I'm no fan of the liquid though.
Dellinger
New member
screeby said:
screeby- keep in mind, I'm in the same boat as you... green behind the ears, lol.
Anyway, I'm not a fan of the Meg's OTC clay bar, I prefer Mother's clay for OTC... it's just more aggressive in my opinion. But, I have some severely neglected vehicles to clean up... so yours may not be as bad as mine referring to the bonded surface contaminants. Don't worry though, the Meg's clay will work out fine.
I worked with Meg's A-12 (maroon bottle, original cleaner wax) on my truck just to get comfortable before diving all in on black Honda with the compound and polish. Remember though, cleaner wax is NOT what you want in your situation. You should probably look for a dedicated polish, such as the UP as others have recommended.
You can find my thread listed in this sub-forum... title- "4 things for Newbs to think about, from a Newb." If you have read it, I apologize; if not, there are some interesting tid-bits in there for new folks (like me).
Accumulator
Well-known member
Dan said:
Do they still make the paste version of A12? Haven't used their consumer cleaner-waxes for so long...
Do remember that it can stain trim something fierce though.