Overspray Removal

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I got the idea for this thread reading this thread:

http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums/polishing-rotary-polisher/30811-rotary-not-rotary.html

I did a headlight correction on this red Corolla a few weeks back and noticed that the car had been repainted in several spots. We'll just say it's a poor job at best. One of the worst spots on the car is a tape line that was visible on the hood Note the overspray on the outside of the tape line. Well I wanted to see what I could do with it while being gentle with the lower quality paint the car was resprayed with. The tape line ran the entire length of the hood and wraps down by the headlight. The overspray was heaviest there, although it is hard to see.

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I first tried clay. It did not remove the overspray, but it did remove a piece of paint. :wall At this point I am trying to avoid using the rotary and rocks in a bottle. (be gentle)

I reached for the PC and a white LC CCS pad. I first tried (it worked) Meg Ult Compound. I love this stuff. It has a bit of bite, but I did not use a super aggressive pad and kept polishing times short with little pressure. The results were amazing, it came off in just a few minutes. I followed up with D151 and called it good. Here are a few after shots.

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So if you find yourself asking "rotary or not?", don't automatically think you cant clean something up with the PC you already own.

And to totally sell out and shill away for Ultimate Compound, here is the link to buy it :D

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-ultimate-compound.html



Thanks for reading.
 
I was once told "If it spins, it cuts". This is proof of that. Nice work on the hood. Tape lines are a pain in the rear to completely remove.
 
Very nice work, Phoenix !

That hood is absolutely beautiful!

Client had to be amazed, right ?

No one ever said a PC couldn't correct - it can, but it takes a longer time, and can never be as effective as Rotary Power which is forced rotation on all the time.

I like to use my Meguiars G110V on some areas of vehicles when I am ahead of the curve and have extra time to burn, but these areas are always things like headlights, taillights, perhaps a plastic bumper that is not too messed up, glass, etc..

I also like to use a Flex 3401VRG with 5" pads to lay down a glaze or an LSP quickly, and be done with it.

Dan F
 
mrclean81 said:
I was once told "If it spins, it cuts". This is proof of that. Nice work on the hood. Tape lines are a pain in the rear to completely remove.
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Thanks, I appreciate it.

Stokdgs said:
Very nice work, Phoenix !

That hood is absolutely beautiful!

Client had to be amazed, right ? And Yes, very pleased.

No one ever said a PC couldn't correct - it can, but it takes a longer time, and can never be as effective as Rotary Power which is forced rotation on all the time.

I like to use my Meguiars G110V on some areas of vehicles when I am ahead of the curve and have extra time to burn, but these areas are always things like headlights, taillights, perhaps a plastic bumper that is not too messed up, glass, etc..

I also like to use a Flex 3401VRG with 5" pads to lay down a glaze or an LSP quickly, and be done with it.

Dan F
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First, Thanks!

I know it can correct, that's why I use it. I also use it where heat could be an issue, like on plastic (bumpers and such). Also, it may be the right tool, like on this after market paint could be removed with a stronger polisher. :D
 
Great correction work the TID10, looks like the power of a PC is still can do what it's needed for with the advancement of products coming out and the rotary is not always needed for everything out there.
 
zoomzoom mazda5 said:
Great correction work the TID10, looks like the power of a PC is still can do what it's needed for with the advancement of products coming out and the rotary is not always needed for everything out there.
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Angelo, you summed up the point of my thread. I didn't spell that out, but I was thinking it. I really like some of the polishes like UC that have been optimized for the PC. This is a good example of what it can do.
 
This thread naturally made me think about overspray but more importantly why?

During my younger years and even in the not so distant past I've done literally 500 to 600 full paint jobs and not counting countless spot and panel repair. Never once was a vehicle I painted turned over to the customer with overspray present. To be honest I don't know how overspray is even an issue if the jobs done correctly.

Example

If a front fender and part of the door needed to be refinished then generally I'd have two avenues;

1. Paint the fender and door then fade or blend into the rear quarter. Once satisfied with the color the entire side would receive 2 or 3 coats of clear bring it to one uniform level.

2. Paint the fender, door and rear quarter to create a uniform seamless color. Once satisfied with the color the entire side would receive 2 or 3 coats of clear.

Paint and blend part of a fender then the entire fender is clear coated, again no overspray.

I have seen and worked on cars where overspray was an issue and only because some hack at a dealership or backyard shop took shortcuts and did a piss poor job.

I've seen paper and tape lines half way across the hood because someone didn't think the paint would go that far. What I discovered was that the front fender had been repaired and because of poor prep work and a half-assed paper and tape job, overspray was allowed to settle on any surface that was not covered.

To completely correct this tool me a full day using clay, compound, polish, my rotary polisher, wool pads, dual action polisher, and foam pads. Once complete the car received a nice coat of Carnauba wax to make it look wet...

I'm tired just thinking about it!!

Nice save on the hood and I love the reflection shots....
 
Thanks for all the comments guys. I really enjoy fixing stuff like this. It's fun to see a before and after.
 
Hey guys i am new to this, but i have been messing around with the MF system and really enjoying the results. It works great in my rookie eyes. I was reading this forum here about the overspray and got to thinking, would it be wrong to wet sand away the overspray and then buff out? Thanks a lot guys.
 
punch said:
Hey guys i am new to this, but i have been messing around with the MF system and really enjoying the results. It works great in my rookie eyes. I was reading this forum here about the overspray and got to thinking, would it be wrong to wet sand away the overspray and then buff out? Thanks a lot guys.
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Yes and no.

I have used 4000 grit sand paper from Micro Surface Abrasives (I believe the name of the company is) to remove overspray and it works in a very similar to fashion to clay (but obviously much faster). It is a unique paper that reacts much finer than 4000 grit and also has a net like mesh-texture.

That said, using any more aggressive than that is likely too aggressive. Detailing clay, for the most part, is offers the best way to remove most overspray in the least invasive manner to the paint underneath.
 
Stokdgs said:
Very nice work, Phoenix !

That hood is absolutely beautiful!

Client had to be amazed, right ?

No one ever said a PC couldn't correct - it can, but it takes a longer time, and can never be as effective as Rotary Power which is forced rotation on all the time.

I like to use my Meguiars G110V on some areas of vehicles when I am ahead of the curve and have extra time to burn, but these areas are always things like headlights, taillights, perhaps a plastic bumper that is not too messed up, glass, etc..

I also like to use a Flex 3401VRG with 5" pads to lay down a glaze or an LSP quickly, and be done with it.

Dan F
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Dan,

How did you calculate this statement?

Cheers,
GREG
 
Todd, thanks for the reply. All of this is kind of confusing with all the different brands and compounds and buffing pads. What is the difference in compounds that painters use and detailers use? Thanks
 
punch said:
Todd, thanks for the reply. All of this is kind of confusing with all the different brands and compounds and buffing pads. What is the difference in compounds that painters use and detailers use? Thanks
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That really depends on the goals of the individual detailers and/or the individual painters/body shops.

Stepping outside our world (where we focus on the higher end of things) many bodyshops use compounds that are extremely aggressive (since they are working on fresh paint). Many have a lot of chemicals that hide or mask remaining imperfections. The goal is speed, quick in and quick out. The compounds are generally silicone free (body shop safe).

A lot of detailers (again not the detailers you are likely to find on this type of discussion forum) use products that also fill defects, but could have the added benefit of using silcones and waxes.

By the same token you will find both body shops and detailers who use nothing but quality products. So it ends up being a very broad generalization.
 
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