Over Correction... mind boggling

Very interesting topic. My .02



A PTG is a great one-time investment....and should be in your arsenal if you're doing any serious correction.



Just be knowledgeable and know when to walk away.....
 
dmw2692004 said:
I think these are two GREAT points. Most people can’t even tell that the paint is FLAWLESS, they just seen a really shiny car with really clean wheels and they are more than happy. I think trying to get 100% correction on anything short of a show-car/garage queen is insane. That being said, I’m having a really hard time with this doing dealer work, because I look at the paint and see a lot of RIDS and getting frustrated that I cant get rid of them. Does the dealer care? They just want the holograms out of their ‘vettes.





Dealers just wanna get a nice clean looking car. And most of them can deal with the Hologram. I in all honesty just try to hit as much of the scratches as possible and whatever does not come out GUESS WHAT? Does not come out. I'm not spending $600+ on a machine that tells me how much clear it has. I just can't see me spending that much. Anyways here no one really cares. As long as they see a shiny car there happy. I have 2 methods. Clean mitts, new soap and mitts that stay in a bucket filled with soap and maybe get washed out once a week. Guess what method I use most and all my customers are happy with? Time is money guys! remember that.
 
alloutdetailing said:
Dealers just wanna get a nice clean looking car. And most of them can deal with the Hologram. I in all honesty just try to hit as much of the scratches as possible and whatever does not come out GUESS WHAT? Does not come out. I'm not spending $600+ on a machine that tells me how much clear it has. I just can't see me spending that much. Anyways here no one really cares. As long as they see a shiny car there happy. I have 2 methods. Clean mitts, new soap and mitts that stay in a bucket filled with soap and maybe get washed out once a week. Guess what method I use most and all my customers are happy with? Time is money guys! remember that.



You can get a decent one for 225:xyxthumbs
 
vtec92civic said:
How is the flipping car business? I need to get in to that. Business has been slow i'm looking for what ever i can to make ends meet.



Its actually more of a hobby and the way I am doing it, it works out really well. I do a few cars a year. I like driving something different every now and again so I pick GM cars only, that I like, but retain decent value. I look online till I find something that strikes my eye, what I call a detailers special, and I buy it. I am actually a GM ASE Certified Technician who oddly enough has never worked for GM and has not been a Tech in the last five years. So I purchase these cars, register them, insure them (it costs me a little). In the meanwhile i repair things that need repairing, and work on detailing the vehicle to where it goes from junk to show condition, and when the title comes in a couple months later, I sell it, make my profit and move onto the next toy/investment. I have been doing well, but you have to expect to lose eventually, its really like gambling which unfortunately I like doing as well.







jono20 said:
I agree with both of you. I often peruse the Pro Before/After forum, and it is safe to say, a lot of those cars are PERFECT! Perfect in the sense that they have taken a Makita rotary with a wool pad and 105, and worn the surface of the vehicle down to the bottom of the deepest defect.



That's all well and good.. I'm just worried about them going back next year, or coming to me! I can't afford an ultrasonic paint thickness gauge, when I get a badly swirled, brushed, and webbed car I assume I'm working with factory paint, it's only begun to occur to me lately that maybe, just maybe, I'm not the only person to have ever laid pad to paint on this particular vehicle...



I am having a similar problem with the before and after section of this forum. I aspire to be like all the autopia greats and i am willing to put in the time and effort necessary. I spend hours watching meguiars videos, reading threads on here, and practicing on my older commuter car. Seems though like the pros are the first ones to level a car with M105 and twisted wool, but are also the first to step into a thread like this and tell you not to do it. I want the same results.... I know these guys have been doing this for years... that's what makes them pro's but I can't imagine god gave them special hands and special eyes. I know we are all damaging these cars.... just some of us make it look better than others.... and some of us are quicker to admit it than others.



Below I made a little write up about my experience today.... to cut to the chase, I will be seeing this car again, which scares the sh*t out of me. I did a great job this time according to the owner, but I certainly screwed myself down the road.



vtec92civic said:
I am not a painter but i have been in the modifying car world ever since i could drive. I have had cars painted and been around painters and so on . . . . . so i have a pretty good eye for a vehicle that was in a accident of some sort. A lot of times owners are surprised when i ask them:



has your vehicle ever been in a accident or repainted? They usually all answer no and then when i show them all the sanding scratches they scratch their head like how did those get there or like i busted them. :chuckle:



if you ever are in question about any particular panel step down a pad or two and on the polish as well. The last thing you want is to go through the clear and instead of you making $300 or what ever you might charge you owe them $1,000 for the paint work that now needs to be done LoL.



Brother, this was the lesson of the day. DON'T ASSUME THE PANEL YOU JUST WORKED IS THE SAME AS THE ONE YOUR ARE ABOUT TO POLISH. Sometimes you really can't tell if a panel has been repainted. I will never make this mistake again for as long as I live. If i am compounding the hood and I move to the door, I will step down drastically in what I am using... then I will move back up as necessary.



jono20 said:
Would you say it's always the detailer's fault if the car has been corrected SO much that it simply runs out of paint? What about the ten guys before him? Makes you think that the owners need to be educated a bit on whats actually going on once they drop off the ride.



I agree. I learned today that the ride i just completed had been at a detailer just 3 months ago. This is a limited use vehicle that is garaged! :nervous2: This car was a mess when I got it. I really don't feel all that responsible after learning this information. And that many of the panels where repainted :rolleyes:





Auto Concierge said:
Highline II is $225.00(however I just replaced my Highline with a DeFelsko from Phil @DD)if you do not invest in a paint depth gage it is like driving at night with your lights off........ you can do it but..... .



DETAILS PLEASE... BECAUSE IF THIS IS A "QUALITY" ITEM I AM PULLIN THE TRIGGER ON IT!!!! For $225 really there is no excuse not to have one. The one at the dealer I was working for a couple years ago was $2K... big difference!



wannafbody said:
-Gotta resist falling for the "Curse of Autopia" where every vehicle either turns out 100% or it's a failure.(end quote)



True, heavy etching won't come out unless you remove a ton of clear. Even if the owner is gonna ditch the car in a year or two would you want to be the guy who buys a car and a year later the paint is fading or peeling off? Overcorrection seems to be the norm around here.



I agree with your first statement... Its tough being on here sometimes when it seems like everybody else is doing such a high level of work and you aspire to be like them. You look at what your doing and its never good enough.



There are two schools of thought on this though. On one hand you have the vehicle you are a looking to do a good job on, but don't want to see someone get stuck with a car a year later where the paint is falling off if the original owner dumps it .... on the other hand, who are you working for?





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Well, I sure learned a lot today. I am going to move into doing this part time because clearly I am doing decently. I delivered the vehicle today and the owner couldn't be happier with the job that I did. I later learned a couple things about this particular car. They were tossing over the idea of having it repainted anyway because the back bumper was so badly faded and acid etched. I somehow by the grace of god manged to save the rear bumper and not thin the clear out to the point where I can see any differences. The car really did come out great. When I delivered the vehicle and found out this new information I approached it like this... "You were considering a repaint, correct? So the car new looks showroom new with the exception of this small blemish. The car is garaged and rarely driven so you will likely get at least 5 year out of the finish. Maybe no more compounding but certainly a very light polish maybe in a year or so." For the price i charged, I saved them thousands in getting the car repainted today. Also, I was told they took it to a local detail shop that is "highly recommended" in the area just 3 months earlier. This was news to me as it was not previously mentioned although i think I said I suspected it in my first post. Clearly they did a horrible job because the car looked terrible and was thin in random places. Non the less the detail work was horrible and I believe the owner believes my error was a result of their poor quality work. I can roll with that! Anyhow, I have been commissioned to do the rest of there cars....



I did learn a couple of important detailing lessons also.



1. Never assume anything: Just because the hood is rock hard, and the body "appears" original, don't assume it hasn't been repainted. Although good shops are few and far between, they do exist. In this case the paint was soft and already thin... a recipe for disaster

2. If you polish one panel with twisted wool and 3M extreme cut, when you move to the next damaged panel start with a light polishing pad and polish and work your way up once more to compound.

3. I learned to say NO. I will try to rationalize with people and explain what I can an cannot do, but I am not destroying anymore cars... its just to stressful.



I think if I can remember these 3 lessons this will just be a bad memory.



DG
 
I am not professional detailer but why not offer a cheaper option such as using Autoglym Super Resin Polish to fill in the swirls?



Tell them "hey I can correct it for you and remove more clearcoat and leave you with less depth. Or I can fill them in and leave you with roughly the same clear coat you started out with". I think this is what Hacks do according to you guys but this is far better in my opinion than removing precious clearcoat.



Basically fill in the swirls with any good product out there when you see that they have nearly no clearcoat left. Like I said I only detail my car and some of my families but spending $50 in products (Consumer) or more for a professional to do it is far less than a new paint job.
 
I did a Volvo the other day and ran into this problem.



The entire car had a good amount of clear. The hood had almost nothing left. Long story short, the dealer buffed it many times over the years to keep it looking good.



When it came time for me to get to it I recommended a glaze as a correction was just risking a problem. I for one believe there is nothing wrong with glazes/fillers if they are used as a tool to help maintain the clear over the life of the vehicle.
 
LX1 said:
I did a Volvo the other day and ran into this problem.



The entire car had a good amount of clear. The hood had almost nothing left. Long story short, the dealer buffed it many times over the years to keep it looking good.



When it came time for me to get to it I recommended a glaze as a correction was just risking a problem. I for one believe there is nothing wrong with glazes/fillers if they are used as a tool to help maintain the clear over the life of the vehicle.



I agree, as long as the detailer is clear with the customer that the defects are not being removed, only filled. That was they don't come back in three months screaming for warranty work!
 
Danspeed1- Sounds like you're figuring things out :xyxthumbs Keep thinking for yourself and use sites like this, uhm...well, use them properly ;)



ppastos- Yeah, SRP is a good produc for cases like that. When I did cars for family/friends I'd just give 'em a light polishing to round the marring a little and then SRP/Collinite. Not "Autopian" perhaps, but still "best car in the company parking lot" until it needed "rewaxed" again.
 
What do we think of a white pad and 106 (or 85) ..... low enough cut that you could get away doing it 2 or 3dozens times (i.e., once a year for the vehicle's life.....at 20yrs or so I'd expect a repaint anyways, if you had it that long)
 
efnfast said:
What do we think of a white pad and 106 (or 85) ..... low enough cut that you could get away doing it 2 or 3dozens times (i.e., once a year for the vehicle's life.....at 20yrs or so I'd expect a repaint anyways, if you had it that long)



If you’re polishing a customers car more than once a year, there is something wrong. Someone posted this above, at that point you’re better off with a glaze and wax.. I don't know why you would want to polish the same car 2-3 dozen times, the marring on a daily comes back weeks after you polish it because the owner will eventually take it to a swirl-o-matic. I recommend to my customers that they should only get their cars polished once a year max, other than that I think it should stay as simple maintenance details.



just my .02.
 
dmw2692004 said:
If you’re polishing a customers car more than once a year, there is something wrong. Someone posted this above, at that point you’re better off with a glaze and wax.. I don't know why you would want to polish the same car 2-3 dozen times, the marring on a daily comes back weeks after you polish it because the owner will eventually take it to a swirl-o-matic. I recommend to my customers that they should only get their cars polished once a year max, other than that I think it should stay as simple maintenance details.



just my .02.



re-read what I wrote - I said once a year with white/black 106/85
 
First thing I told the customer when she picked up the car was that I didn't feel that it would allow for another compounding in its lifetime... this was my opinion of course to be sure i recommended stopping by a body shop to have them check paint thickness in the future. I told her that it is likely to accept 2-3 more light polishes over the years (106FF w/white).. but no more compounding... at least i won't be doing it.



I also mentioned that there is absolutely no reason why a garaged car would need to be polished or compounded any more than once every two years... I made a point of mentioning i would be glad to re-seal it as many times and she would like, but I personally will not touch the car again with a buffer till 2012... (ill be long gone by than anyway)



DG
 
efnfast said:
What do we think of a white pad and 106 (or 85) ..... low enough cut that you could get away doing it 2 or 3dozens times (i.e., once a year for the vehicle's life.....at 20yrs or so I'd expect a repaint anyways, if you had it that long)



But by the time something's 20 years old, having original paint is one *HUGE* factor in its value ;) My far-from-perfect '84 RX-7 is a real collector's prize simply because you *never* see them with original paint. Ditto for the '85 Jag, even though it's only about 90% original (those ss metallics are a real challenge, very prone to various kinds of failure).



Heh heh, I'm probably coming off as quite different from how I really am with my vehicles; I don't mind hammering them when I consider it necessary, it just *isn't* necessary all that often because of how I wash (and my ability to live with a few RIDS). And I know when to say "when!" too :D



And don't think I'm :argue with you efnfast, yeah, I wouldn't hesitate to do one light polishing per year, at least with something like a modern Audi. But OTOH, just to show ya, my MPV has *never* been seriously corrected. Never used anything harsher than 3M 05933 on a polishing pad via PC/Cyclo and I've only corrected it (lightly) maybe three or four times since new. But my ETG is saying I gotta think twice about doing it again. And only *one* pass with just PC/3M PI-III MG 05937 took the uncleared paint on the underside of the hood down to primer in places :eek:
 
Accumulator said:
But by the time something's 20 years old, having original paint is one *HUGE* factor in its value ;) My far-from-perfect '84 RX-7 is a real collector's prize simply because you *never* see them with original paint. Ditto for the '85 Jag, even though it's only about 90% original (those ss metallics are a real challenge, very prone to various kinds of failure).



Heh heh, I'm probably coming off as quite different from how I really am with my vehicles; I don't mind hammering them when I consider it necessary, it just *isn't* necessary all that often because of how I wash (and my ability to live with a few RIDS). And I know when to say "when!" too :D



And don't think I'm :argue with you efnfast, yeah, I wouldn't hesitate to do one light polishing per year, at least with something like a modern Audi. But OTOH, just to show ya, my MPV has *never* been seriously corrected. Never used anything harsher than 3M 05933 on a polishing pad via PC/Cyclo and I've only corrected it (lightly) maybe three or four times since new. But my ETG is saying I gotta think twice about doing it again. And only *one* pass with just PC/3M PI-III MG 05937 took the uncleared paint on the underside of the hood down to primer in places :eek:



I got a box of 1000 grit paper waiting for the day we meet!!!! :LOLOL:hifive:
 
Barry Theal said:
I got a box of 1000 grit paper waiting for the day we meet!!!!





Heh heh, my vehicles are cowering in fear :scared: Though that Ford of mine might need something like that (if I ever get it back home :rolleyes: Wanna buy it now that you sold the Porsche?).



Here I come across so "ooh, don't thin the paint!" but after ebpcivicsi hammered the Yukon with twisted wool/etc. to the point where he was really nervous about it, *I* was the guy who went ahead and *REALLY* improved its etching :D
 
Accumulator said:
But OTOH, just to show ya, my MPV has *never* been seriously corrected. Never used anything harsher than 3M 05933 on a polishing pad via PC/Cyclo and I've only corrected it (lightly) maybe three or four times since new. But my ETG is saying I gotta think twice about doing it again. And only *one* pass with just PC/3M PI-III MG 05937 took the uncleared paint on the underside of the hood down to primer in places :eek:



lol, talk about crappy oem paint :eek:



My test mule - black 03 g35 coupe - got hammered before I sold it. It was polished 2x with a rotary and 3M compound (heavy cut), then 6 or 7 times with a cyclo and M83, then once with a flex/pfw/sip, twice with flex/orange/sip, and several times with flex/white/106 and still kept on ticking on while I was learning detailing.
 
The hood on my TA was painted at a separate facility and the clear is quite thick. On the plastic panels there are spots where you can see the orangepeel flattened and those panels were only ever compounded once. They've been polished several times with mild polishes such as M9, Mothers Power Polish and ZPC. The clear can range from thick to thin on various sections of the car.
 
wannafbody- Your G35 experiences sound like how I got used to Audis :D That was after having to be SOOOO careful with early-b/c Benzes that were also very fragile. But then as everybody here knows, I still miss high-quality (and thick) oem single stage ;)



Ah yes, I vaguely remember now...the ram air (or something like that...) hoods being different. Interesting that it's *better* huh? Guess that's the way it oughta be!



Wow, that's something about the op getting leveled! Good thing you're taking it easy on that.
 
The Ram Air hoods were painted at ASC. It's surprising that OP can be somewhat leveled over time with mild polishes-some of which were done with finishing pads on a rotary and orange and white pads on the PC.
 
Again, I am just glad the car is out of my possession and the customer is thrilled.



This has definitely been a learning experience for me... hopefully everybody can leaner from my experience.



I am opening a thread on paint thickness gauges.





DG
 
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