Orbital That Can Do What a Rotary Can

I don't find myself using this tool much at all...awkward and doesn't seem to have a decided advantage over the PC.



And in now way, shape, or form can it do what a rotary can...just so knowbody is misled by this thread.
 
RAG said:
And in now way, shape, or form can it do what a rotary can...just so knowbody is misled by this thread.
Click to expand...





I disagree. Here's my repost from MOL.



Woah, I completely missed this thread, otherwise I would've chimed in a long time ago.



I absolutely LOVE the dynabrade attachment.



Anyone that has had sufficient time with a rotary, knows that a rotary will leave what looks like a clearer, brighter, finish than a porter cable DA(or g-100) will. The drawback with final polishing with a rotary, is that there is always a chance for some slight swirling in the finish. The porter cable DA will not leave swirling, but it takes longer to break down the polish, and the finish does not look as "bright" as if one were to do the final polishing with a rotary.



Now, the dynabrade has a few disadvantages: The price is generaly going to be over $220 when you factor in shipping and the cost of the rotary, as compared to the various prices for the porter cable. The thing is heavy, adding near 2 pounds to whatever rotary you are using. You can only use 8 inch pads with it. Now onto the good stuff.



The dynabrade will never ever leave swirls like a rotary, but it is VERY powerful. It will not bog down, and if you try too hard to to stop the rotation/orbit, you will hurt yourself. If I had to put a number on it, the dynabrade can do at least 80% of the work a rotary can do. It will break down polishes just as quickly as a rotary, and leaves the super clear and bright looking finish one would achieve when final polishing with a rotary, but no swirls. I have even used the dynabrade with rotary only compounds(such as 84) and have been able to fully break down the compound(you need to run the attachemnt at full speed and put a fair amount of pressure on the tool). Finally, if you run the tool at 1800-2000 rpm, it is more than gentle enough for applying waxes.



I absolutely love the thing
 
Well I bought the thing I paid $1150.00 and I have used it once? I guess because of how much it weights. But the one job that I did use the Dynabrade it did not take out defects but for the final polishing yes its does it faster and better then a PC. But you have to apply pressure to it working on the side of the car and that takes some physical energy, I guess that is why I hardly have used it yet.
 
George, I just guess it depends on how you look at it; I think any DA can do what a rotary can, just not in the same amount of time.



I completely agree with the paragraph about how the rotary finishes down better than a DA - I really struggle with getting a DA to leave a finish as clear as the rotary will...though I agree the trade off can be rotary halograms, but the more experienced I become, the less issue I have with this (on any color)...almost never these days.



I think any polisher can do what a rotary can do, but it will take a lot longer...I'd say I can take a completely hammered car and bring it to near perfection (except for the ultra deep scratches) in 1/3 the time using a rotary versus the Dynabrade attachemet I have; if we're taking very light swirl removal, the time difference is barely signifigant...so I also agree with the previous post in that it is good for final finishing.





gbackus said:
I disagree. Here's my repost from MOL.



Woah, I completely missed this thread, otherwise I would've chimed in a long time ago.



I absolutely LOVE the dynabrade attachment.



Anyone that has had sufficient time with a rotary, knows that a rotary will leave what looks like a clearer, brighter, finish than a porter cable DA(or g-100) will. The drawback with final polishing with a rotary, is that there is always a chance for some slight swirling in the finish. The porter cable DA will not leave swirling, but it takes longer to break down the polish, and the finish does not look as "bright" as if one were to do the final polishing with a rotary.



Now, the dynabrade has a few disadvantages: The price is generaly going to be over $220 when you factor in shipping and the cost of the rotary, as compared to the various prices for the porter cable. The thing is heavy, adding near 2 pounds to whatever rotary you are using. You can only use 8 inch pads with it. Now onto the good stuff.



The dynabrade will never ever leave swirls like a rotary, but it is VERY powerful. It will not bog down, and if you try too hard to to stop the rotation/orbit, you will hurt yourself. If I had to put a number on it, the dynabrade can do at least 80% of the work a rotary can do. It will break down polishes just as quickly as a rotary, and leaves the super clear and bright looking finish one would achieve when final polishing with a rotary, but no swirls. I have even used the dynabrade with rotary only compounds(such as 84) and have been able to fully break down the compound(you need to run the attachemnt at full speed and put a fair amount of pressure on the tool). Finally, if you run the tool at 1800-2000 rpm, it is more than gentle enough for applying waxes.



I absolutely love the thing
Click to expand...
 
I replaced the original backing pad with a standard PC velcro backing pad and use the smaller 7.5 LC pads. The new backing pad screws into the Dynabrade just like it does with the PC. I absolutely love this set-up. With the smaller pads I get more power with compounds and polishes than I did with the larger pads. I always run my machine at full speed and have burned through paint like a rotary, so you have to be careful around edges.
 
Mark Waldron said:
I replaced the original backing pad with a standard PC velcro backing pad and use the smaller 7.5 LC pads. The new backing pad screws into the Dynabrade just like it does with the PC. I absolutely love this set-up. With the smaller pads I get more power with compounds and polishes than I did with the larger pads. I always run my machine at full speed and have burned through paint like a rotary, so you have to be careful around edges.
Click to expand...





How did you manage to unscrew the backing plate? Trying to unscrew mine just causes the bearing on the inside to spin.
 
George, I'm going to guess that attaching it to a rotary first will aid in removing the BP. That's just a guess though.
 
SpoiledMan said:
George, I'm going to guess that attaching it to a rotary first will aid in removing the BP. That's just a guess though.
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Actually, I looked up the directions and there is a nut between the backing plate and the housing, unfortunately I don't have the wrench that fits, Joe still has it :(
 
I actually had to take a flat air tool wrench and grind it to make it work. I'll hopefully get around to ordering one that fits perfectly.
 
I'd be interested in switching the backing plate...might have to do this, as my biggest concern with it now is how the metal housing is grinding into plastic of the backing plate (there's only a 1/8" gap between them and if you apply any angled pressure it rubs...at least mine does).
 
hi, im new in this forun. A question... Can i install a counterweight in a makita 9227c to meke the orbital moviment/ Wich one can i use; thanks a lot... fabio:2thumbs:
 
fmiran said:
hi, im new in this forun. A question... Can i install a counterweight in a makita 9227c to meke the orbital moviment/ Wich one can i use; thanks a lot... fabio:2thumbs:
Click to expand...
You have to buy a Dynabrade that is listed in the first post to get orbital movement from a rotary polisher like the Makita 9227.
 
Scottwax said:
I complete a 90%, not full swirl free finish on Audis with moderate to severe swirling. The black A6 I did today not only had horrible halo swirls but rotary swirls too. Two odd things about that....



1. How can someone add rotary holograms yet not remove any halo swirls?

2. Why do the rotary holograms come out so much more easily than halo swirls?



Hyper and a yellow LC cutting pad was my 2nd step! Clearkote Compound with a burgany Meguiars cutting pad was first. :nervous2:
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Scott someone must of used a rotary with a very dirty pad, or tried to compound or polish with out washing.



I once ran over a small chip in the hood of a car the paint chip must have got cought in the pad for a bit, I did a close inspection, as I always do after I do each section and :soscared: But I ended changing pads and getting it out.
 
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