Optimum Polish

Josh1

New member
I got some of this product from SMP today. I would have got some of the SSR's but he told me not to worry about them. Now I am reading that pc cannot break down Optimum Polish that good and will leave a haze. So I called SMP up and he told me just to use the Vanilla Moose to get rid of the haze after using it. Is Optimum Polish all I really need if it gets out the swirl marks? It will suck if I have to wait another 5days for some SSR to come in.
 
Optimum Polish works EXCELLENT with the PC! It breaks down properly, very quickly, and produces a terrific gloss.



Those who wrote that that it won't break down, must have overapplied it. Too much OCP reduces its effectivity and polishing ability because the polishing oils take over the process and the product will just slide over itself without doing corrective work.
 
I'll second that. Though I use OP 90% of the time with a rotary, I've had no problems with the PC. Three medium speed passes with PC on 6 is sufficient, though you have the OPTION of woking OP much longer since it has a long drying time.
 
No. When you need a more aggressive product, upgrade to the normal or the Hyper compound. But the polish removes the imperfections amazingly. It is one of the greatest products to produce a truly brilliant shine. Just feel the way OCP works and use less. When you primed the pad well, the amount of product you should use is amazingly little:
 

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My swirl marks are alittle bad. You can not see them unless in strong sunlight or certain lights. Do you think Optimum will be enough for the job? THanks for all the help. :)
 
On harder paints *maybe* you won't be able to remove certain swirls until you use a bit more aggressive product. But with either the Polish or the Compound you have nearly unlimited time to remove them. Remove a bit of haze, then if you still not satisfied, you can continue. Both will finish down to an amazingly close level. After the compound, you can use the Polish to produce an even better gloss!
 
OCP is my main polish and I only use a PC. As others have said, using the right amount and PC movement speed play a big role in OCP's effectiveness. A little finicky yes, but well worth the results.
 
Make sure you are using the *right* pad.

I use Oragne pad(LC) on a rotary, if the swirls its bad or has alot of defects. If there's are some light marring or tiny bit of swirls here and there, I bust out the green pad(LC) and by follow by white pad.
 
I just tried out my Optimum Polish and after using the PC for approx 2 min of polishing a 1.5 x 1.5 foot area I removed with a buffing Concurs towel and found that it didn't remove easily like a wax would when it's totally dry. Does this mean that I'm not letting the polish break down enough or maybe I'm using too much polish.



I used the blue propel pad with OP using a good amount of pressure then on the last few passes about 30 seconds worth I lightened up on my pressure.



Or is it normal that the OP takes a little while to buff out completely?



Bence,



What do you mean when you say "When you primed the pad well, the amount of product you should use is amazingly little."



Because I used about 3 maybe 4X that much when I was working on a section that was about 3 x 3.



Thanks
 
RP-350Z said:
What do you mean when you say "When you primed the pad well, the amount of product you should use is amazingly little."



Because I used about 3 maybe 4X that much when I was working on a section that was about 3 x 3.



Thanks



Well, initially your pad is going to be completely dry. It is primed by putting a generous amount of product to dampen the entire pad. You could also mist the pad before this to help spread the product. Now generous is in relation to the small amount that he displays, and does not mean splatter the product all over. Rather, use enough that the pad can handle, draw an X or an O, or apply a long line over the panel, keep doing this on different sections you work on until the entire pad surface is damp. (It takes maybe 3 times for me). Now the pad is primed and only needs little product to continue the rest of the car.
 
If Optimum does not wipe off pretty easily, you didn't break it down properly or you used too much.



The blue Propel pad is a finishing pad, it is not meant to be used with abrasive polishes but polishes with a chemical cleaning ability like AIO. Lots of luck trying to remove defects with the blue pad. Either the green Propel, yellow Meguiars polishing pad or the white Lake Country polishing pad work well with Optimum and probably works as well with other manufacturer's polishing pads.
 
gtbaka said:
Well, initially your pad is going to be completely dry... Rather, use enough that the pad can handle, draw an X or an O, or apply a long line over the panel... Now the pad is primed and only needs little product to continue the rest of the car.



Yes. Priming is exactly like that. But I only prime once. After this, you can (and should) use these little amounts. Don't polish for only 2 minutes; with this polish you can polish for 15 if you wish...



Don't oversaturate the pad by using far too much product! Using more than necessary (too much oils present) result in reduced cutting power. And it will spread excellently when you try to cover a 3×3 area.



Edit: Scott was quicker.
 
Opt Pol is excellent with many of the Orange pads available. Granted the pad has an initial break in period, you would be amazed at what you can accomplish with a slightly more aggressive pad, without marring your paint. As Scott said, you would be better off having a pad that supports the product better. Your not going to get anywhere with swirl removal, with blue. You can clean paint with it, but no more then that.

Maybe what SMP was implying is that the Opt Pol is better suited for a Rotary. But is is my go to, about 90% of the time. If Im using a more aggressive brand, I use the Opt Pol for cleanup.....
 
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