Optimum Polish, Compound, or PB's SSR2.5 or Meg #83?

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dandydaniel

New member
I just purchased a PC 7336. I have light to moderate swirling with holograms. I want to remove them but I'm stuck between a rock and three hard places. From what I've researched, the SSR2.5 is supposed to be for more experienced detailers, and then from there, the Optimum and Megs are similar? My car is a 2005 Honda Accord Coupe in Graphite Grey Pearl (dark grey, flakey). I want the easier to use compound out of the three. Also, anyone have any good combinations with each of the three? I've heard that the step is to ssr2.5/oc op/#83 > polish > sealant > wax. So if anyone could give me a good setup of polish sealant and wax and is that the correct order of application? Thanks.
 
You've got me a little confused...not sure why SSR2.5 would be for more experienced detailers, and SSR2.5 are pretty much the same cut, as well as OC. OP is a little finer. Some people seem to have some problems with #83 (I don't, although it can gum up), I don't think you can go wrong with the OC or the SSR2.5. I was just using SSR2.5 yesterday, it's very easy to use.
 
I searched SSR2.5 and people said they were having some trouble with it. They said it was the dustiest compound ? I guess it comes down to the OC or SSR2.5. If I do end up purchasing the SSR2.5, should I also get the SSR2 for lighter polishing? What else should I purchase with the OC as well? What should I top the SSR2.5 with for the glossy wet look?
 
Also, I'm going to order the Propel Pads. What quantity of each should I get? I don't think i need a yellow pad do i? I'm thinking that the Orange pad can do most of the swirl removing and hologram removal. And then I can go ahead, apply the second lighter polish with the green pad and top it off with the black pad + wax
 
I use Optimum and SSR polishes & compounds. They are both easy to use. You have to work in Optimum more to get a good finish where SSR's you work till they begin to dust or a little before. Of the two I would say start with the SSR polishes and add Optimum later if you need something else. I like having more than one line of polishes because all paints react to polishes a little different.
 
So would this be a good process

SSR2.5 on Propel Orange Medium Pad

ClearKoat Vanilla Moose on Propel Green Light Polish Pad

Natty's Blue on Propel Black Pad

PB EX-P on Propel Black Pad



and I'd remove all of these products after their respective passes with Micropak towels. Sound good?
 
dandydaniel said:
So would this be a good process

SSR2.5 on Propel Orange Medium Pad

ClearKoat Vanilla Moose on Propel Green Light Polish Pad

Natty's Blue on Propel Black Pad

PB EX-P on Propel Black Pad



and I'd remove all of these products after their respective passes with Micropak towels. Sound good?
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I have never used Vanilla Moose so I can't comment on that. SSR 2.5 does finish out pretty nicely with a polishing pad and it may be fine with the orange pad as well, you will just have to see. If not do one pass with the green pad and 2.5 or better yet ssr 1 and that will do it. then proceed with the rest of your steps.
 
So how many of each pads should I get. From what you're saying this is what I understood: 1) SSR2.5 on Green Pad instead of the Orange pad and then go along with the rest of my steps?
 
dandydaniel said:
So how many of each pads should I get. From what you're saying this is what I understood: 1) SSR2.5 on Green Pad instead of the Orange pad and then go along with the rest of my steps?
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Use what ever pad works to get out the swirling. Try the least abbrasive method first and if that dosen't work then up the pad and or polish. As far as how many pads you need will depend on how busy you are. If it's for just your car then a couple cutting, polishing and finishing pads should do it.
 
And don't forget that the Natty's Blue comes after the EX-P. EX-P is a sealant and the Natty's is the "icing", a carnauba.
 
I have no problems w/ 83 or ssr2.5 gumming. Both will dust some, the poorboys more... but it's manageable, lessens the more the pad is primed, and is nothing compared to 3M.
 
It's mostly a matter of personal preference- I like the optimum products, they've worked great for me. I've used #83 in the past, although I have on-and-off problems with it. Some people don't have issues with 83, some do- I think it's kinda a finnicky polish, so I moved to the optimum line and haven't looked back.
 
dandydaniel said:
What is this "dusting"? Also, how are you supposed to "prime" your pad before you begin usage?
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Dusting occurs when you work certain polishes long enough to the point of dusting. Not all polishes will dust. PB SSR line dust a lot where as Optimum does not dust, ok OHC does a little. You can prime with a QD spray.
 
Dusting is exactly what it sounds like. Some of the polish turns into dust and gets sprayed onto your car by the PC or rotary. Priming a pad is wetting it with water or QD (quick detailer spray).
 
I suppose that's true about priming... I was referring to priming though as when you've done a few panels and the polish itself has primed the entire pad so there is no completely dry surface on the pad any longer.
 
drew.haynes said:
I suppose that's true about priming... I was referring to priming though as when you've done a few panels and the polish itself has primed the entire pad so there is no completely dry surface on the pad any longer.
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A pad with no dry spots is normal, infact that's when it works the best. It's caking you don't want. That's when your pad is totally full of used polish, which usually occurs after polishing 1/2 to 3/4 of a car. When you notice some caking just brush it off the pad with a coarse brush don't let it get that bad. You should change your pad when it gets too bad because it won't work as well if it's caked with polish.
 
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