Optimum Hyper Compound on PC/Griots.

dschribs

dschribs

New member
How well does Optimum Hyper Compound work using a PC/Griots? I read about it on line and it looks like it's geared more towards rotary use than a PC.



Does is work as well as 105 with a PC? More or less cut?



I would usually use an orange LC pad for correction with 105. Would I do the same with the Hyper Compound?



Thanks!!
 
The info i am giving you does not come from first hand experience. It is from my last conversation with Dr.G.

Hyper compound has slightly less cut than 105. It can be used with a DA (use spped 5) and needs to be followed up with a polish.
 
I use OHC via Griot's. The cut is significantly less than M105 (same pads/etc.).



OHC on an orange is what I try first, stepping up to M105 if necessary.



FWIW, Irealy like using it when I don't absolutely need the added aggressiveness of the M105 and I'll also use it to clear up hazing that M105 has left. The OHC finishes out amazingly well BTW, at least for me, which is something I can't really say about M105.
 
Accumulator...how does OHC work on hard Audi/VW Clear? I'm thinking about moving to Optimum products for their overall great range of products, but only if their polishes perform well on my hard clear.



Thanks.
 
OneQuickGT1 said:
Accumulator...how does OHC work on hard Audi/VW Clear? I'm thinking about moving to Optimum products for their overall great range of products, but only if their polishes perform well on my hard clear.



Thanks.
Click to expand...



It doesn't do much serious correction, even on MF cutting pads. It acts more like a "kinda aggressive polish" than a "compound". That's not always bad, but if you want to actually *correct* really significant marring (as opposed to just making it better or fixing less serious swirling), I'd go with Uno on a MF cutting pad, which is my current fave for cases where I don't have to get *REALLY* aggressive. I've only used it twice, but on both the '93 and '00 Audis it worked well. Not as aggressive as M105, but so much more user-friendly that it was better *IMO* even though I had to do more passes.



When I do need to really take off a lot of clear, I still use M105 (preferably the v1.0) on MF, and if it were something simply awful I'd either wetsand first or break out the rotary/wool/rocks-in-a-bottle. And IMO gentle, *CAREFUL* wetsanding is often quicker/easier/SAFER when you need to do really aggressive work. Just use very mild paper and don't try to do all the correction with the sanding (err on the side of caution).
 
As always, great help. I am really thinking of trying Uno. Probably going to try that on an aggressive pad for some problem areas and then finish with HD speed...when it comes out! :(
 
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