Opticoat Preparation

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Leadfootluke

New member
I bought my "new to me" car late last summer and never got the opportunity to properly polish and seal it. A little over 2 years ago I started getting very interested in detailing and had collected a lot of products. Now, with my current job situation and time factoring in, I have cut back on buying products. Lately the only addition to my products has been Optimum Car Wash [and a great addition at that].



I have a small amount I plan on spending on products this spring and am curious how I can optimize my purchases. If you were to buy the products needed to prepare your car [very clean, but never fully detailed, and a lot of rids from the previous owner's love of tunnel washes] for OC, what would they be? I already have most of the essentials that any detailer would have.



Without putting too much thought into it, I have clay and am considering picking up a new Tar remover [I use Tarminator, is there a noticeably better one?] and IronX for paint decontamination [or the FK system?]. Megs D300 for paint correction/discs [I have M105 and M205 w/hydrotech pads, is D300 a worth it?]. And possibly pads and a finishing polish [the hood repaint is ridiculously soft].



Here is a picture of the car, it is sunburst orange and it appears bright orange in the sun and reddish copper when it's darker out



1full.jpg




After bodyshop repaint, and you can see the contrasting orange with sunlight.

hologramedit.jpg




Hoodholograms.jpg




Hoodholograms3.jpg
 
Leadfootluke- Given the possibly problematic repaint, I think I'd go with the AutoInt/ValuGard decontamination stuff instead of IronX or FK (especially instead of the latter).



If the hood is really *that* soft, you might want to get that finishing polish (e.g., Menzerna PO85RD) to use after the M205 (and do what you need to do to remove the M205's oils...good luck with that ;) ).
 
Leadfootluke said:
Thanks a lot Chad, I read through your review and watched the videos. My only concern at this moment is how soft the repaint of the hood/bumpers/decklid are [due to an small accident by the previous owner], and leaving very fine marring during the prep, but I will polish it and check it out before I OC it.
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Maybe try finishing down with Optimum Polish II or Finish and going straight to OC, no IPA wipe-down required. That has been my preferred method whenever possible. :)
 
Accumulator said:
Leadfootluke- Given the possibly problematic repaint, I think I'd go with the AutoInt/ValuGard decontamination stuff instead of IronX or FK (especially instead of the latter).



If the hood is really *that* soft, you might want to get that finishing polish (e.g., Menzerna PO85RD) to use after the M205 (and do what you need to do to remove the M205's oils...good luck with that ;) ).
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Thanks for the advice!



RaskyR1 said:
Maybe try finishing down with Optimum Polish II or Finish and going straight to OC, no IPA wipe-down required. That has been my preferred method whenever possible. :)
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Let's say I polish with M105/205, will Optimum Finish Polish be sufficient prep, or should I wash/IPA after the M205, finish with OFP and then OC. Or can I go from M105 to OPII or OFP?
 
Leadfootluke said:
Let's say I polish with M105/205, will Optimum Finish Polish be sufficient prep, or should I wash/IPA after the M205, finish with OFP and then OC. Or can I go from M105 to OPII or OFP?
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Noting that I've never used OFP...if I used M205 I'd be really concerned about stripping its oils, even if I were using another subsequent polishing step. Those oils are just *such* an issue for me!



I'd even be concerned about whether the IPA will be sufficient (I use stuff like TOL's PrepWash or maybe OPC or "A").
 
Leadfootluke, I have some UNO you can have if you want to use that, it cleans up nicely with IPA. PM me and we'll work out the shipping details.
 
Leadfootluke said:
Thanks for the advice!







Let's say I polish with M105/205, will Optimum Finish Polish be sufficient prep, or should I wash/IPA after the M205, finish with OFP and then OC. Or can I go from M105 to OPII or OFP?
Click to expand...



Never tried M205 followed by OPT finish...However, I've coated a lot of vehicles after using M205 and I've not had a single issue with polishing oils in M205 effecting the coating. Prep on those cars was usually just a good wash with CGCW and a foaming with OPC. I don't want to see you have to buy a bunch of new polishes just to do your vehicle, but it's nice knowing you can go right to coating after using OPT polishes. Most my Opti-Coat/Guard jobs lately have been D300/MF followed by OPT Hyper Polish, Polish II, or finish. A quick wipe-down wit ha damp MF and I got right to coating. Which polish I chose depends on the paint and how it reacts with each. I did a black 2012 Sonata last weekend which was finished down using PO85RD, which IMO is also loaded with oils. We did a quick ONR wash followed by a quick Eraser wipe-down and the coating went on flawlessly.



20120219-_MG_6427.jpg
 
RaskyR1 said:
.. I've coated a lot of vehicles after using M205 and I've not had a single issue with polishing oils in M205 effecting the coating. Prep on those cars was usually just a good wash with CGCW and a foaming with OPC. ... I did a black 2012 Sonata last weekend which was finished down using PO85RD, which IMO is also loaded with oils. We did a quick ONR wash followed by a quick Eraser wipe-down and the coating went on flawlessly.
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Ah, good to hear the M205 oils apparently aren't a big problem with the coating.
 
Accumulator said:
Noting that I've never used OFP...if I used M205 I'd be really concerned about stripping its oils, even if I were using another subsequent polishing step. Those oils are just *such* an issue for me!



I'd even be concerned about whether the IPA will be sufficient (I use stuff like TOL's PrepWash or maybe OPC or "A").
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I do know what you're saying. I have not seen a lot of concern with M205 and OC like I have with M205 and traditional sealants/waxes.



Dan said:
Leadfootluke, I have some UNO you can have if you want to use that, it cleans up nicely with IPA. PM me and we'll work out the shipping details.
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I may take you up on that Dan. Given my limited polishes it is nice to have another to try especially if one isn't playing nice with the paint.



RaskyR1 said:
Never tried M205 followed by OPT finish...However, I've coated a lot of vehicles after using M205 and I've not had a single issue with polishing oils in M205 effecting the coating. Prep on those cars was usually just a good wash with CGCW and a foaming with OPC. I don't want to see you have to buy a bunch of new polishes just to do your vehicle, but it's nice knowing you can go right to coating after using OPT polishes. Most my Opti-Coat/Guard jobs lately have been D300/MF followed by OPT Hyper Polish, Polish II, or finish. A quick wipe-down wit ha damp MF and I got right to coating. Which polish I chose depends on the paint and how it reacts with each. I did a black 2012 Sonata last weekend which was finished down using PO85RD, which IMO is also loaded with oils. We did a quick ONR wash followed by a quick Eraser wipe-down and the coating went on flawlessly.



20120219-_MG_6427.jpg
Click to expand...



And that's a big benefit to being the professional that you are. Since I only maintain my personal vehicle it is stupid to buy a bunch of polishes that need to be used once. I have M105 and M205 for polishing, which work excellent especially for knocking down defects, but I am sure I am leaving something on the table by not having a finishing polish.



Accumulator said:
Ah, good to hear the M205 oils apparently aren't a big problem with the coating.
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Tell me about it! :D
 
I know you can go right to Opti-Coat after using Optimum's polishes, but I still feel better if I wash with ONR first before applying the coating.
 
Scottwax said:
I know you can go right to Opti-Coat after using Optimum's polishes, but I still feel better if I wash with ONR first before applying the coating.
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In my head I forget that ONR is Body Shop Safe. The cleanliness and gloss left behind make me think it isn't.
 
I had a dent pulled at a bodyshop and a new bumper replaced due to a recent hit. How long will I have to wait for the paint to cure to apply Opti coat? I heard two conflicting theories on it. Some say no waiting, others say 90 days.
 
I just did my 11 Outback this weekend with OC. Out of all the polishes I have, I ended up keeping it simple, using OP with OP polish mf pad, and then a ISO wipe down afterwards. Funny, I hadn't used OP for a long time since I had other newer polishes to try out. But wow, it sure worked great on silver, nice pop in the metallic, glossy. Easy to wipe off and work time was excellent.



The previous two OC applications I used HD Polish and a ISO wipe down. Those both turned out great as well.
 
02whitetundra said:
I had a dent pulled at a bodyshop and a new bumper replaced due to a recent hit. How long will I have to wait for the paint to cure to apply Opti coat? I heard two conflicting theories on it. Some say no waiting, others say 90 days.
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I would still give it the 90 days for the paint to cure and breathe. better to be safe than sorry.
 
Sometimes the conflicting advice comes form the description ued-

1. New paint (on a brand new vehicle) no curing time required

2. New paint (re-painted panels) 90 days recommended (ask the painter as the curing time is stated on the paints P-Sheet)
 
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