Opti-Seal durability?

Abq - My topic was about the client perspective. They can't reapply in 15 mins.





Jbinery -Layering Opti-seal- wasn't it determined that the carriers and solvents just pushed product around?

I think the UK guys are putting wax over the Opti-seal. Wouldn't the Opti-seal remove some to the wax?

There is some good info on that site, but listen to that statement - wax 2-3 times first, then apply Opti-seal 2 or 3 times and it looks like 1000p.

Why not just use two coats of inexpensive 1000p?



Mark77- ocw does appear to be slightly more durable but its still not in the "LSP Final Four".
 
I don't mean to try to speak for Optimum, but I think its obvious from David's lineup that his goal is professional results with a superior ease in application and clean up. The polishes don't dust and from the AIO to OCW they are pretty much wipe on and wipe off with no waiting for flashing. Its so easy a caveman can do it LOL. I show my customers how to do it before they leave so from their perspective they are protecting their investment in less than 30 min. I see what your saying about a middle of the road product but I like that David gives simplicity to the masses and a custom (mixed to order...limited shelf life) coating for the pros.

jdoria said:
I wanted both of you to comment.



I think I want to try Opt-Coat after G-Techniq. G-Techniq has a similar application principle. I've painted plenty of cars, and am familiar with prepping, mixing, spraying, and finishing.



But I do see the need for a knock-out consumer grade product in the Optimum line up. Something between Opti-coat and Opti-Seal.
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jdoria said:
Abq - My topic was about the client perspective. They can't reapply in 15 mins.





Jbinery -Layering Opti-seal- wasn't it determined that the carriers and solvents just pushed product around?

I think the UK guys are putting wax over the Opti-seal. Wouldn't the Opti-seal remove some to the wax?

There is some good info on that site, but listen to that statement - wax 2-3 times first, then apply Opti-seal 2 or 3 times and it looks like 1000p.

Why not just use two coats of inexpensive 1000p?



Mark77- ocw does appear to be slightly more durable but its still not in the "LSP Final Four".
Click to expand...



Maybe the UK forum says things backwards but means something else? Regardless, the proper way of using Opti-Seal would be to layer it under any wax.



So now my debate is between Zaino Z2/Z8 vs Opti-Seal/OCWax. So many decisions...hmmm :doh
 
jdoria said:
Integrity - You, Scottwax, and Anthony Orosco are the Optimum spokesmen.
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I speak from my experience, not from a script. I love Optimum products but my endorsement isn't compensated so I'll shoot you as straight as I can on the stuff I'm familiar with. My personal opinion on Opticoat is that IS safe for experienced DIY ers, but it can't be stocked in quantity or stored on shelves so that makes it somewhat exclusive. If you feel confident about your prep, I'd just call David and ask him to make some for you. I can't guarantee that he will, but I think your chances are very good. That's all I meant by saying I can't speak for Optimum. He decides the direction and marketing for his company. I'm pretty much just a satisfied customer... As I am of CG, Meguiars, 3m, and others.
 
Personal cars is ONR in the winter (0f-33f)



1Z Einszett Perls in above 40F (34f-39f get nothing...haha)



I used to use Chemical guys Citrus Wash & Gloss, but worried about the "gloss" detracting from the LSP.



I need something to shoot through the foam lance for entertainment. i've heard that Optimum Wash is a champ, valid?
 
Well the ONR polymers should also be adding very little to the protection of your paint. For me, Opti-seal is about 2-3 months but that is after washing/claying/EZ creme to clean the paint/then opti-seal. It doesn't bead like some may want for a lengthy time, but it sheets more. Thus making it better after a rain so you don't have to have water spots.
 
Got_Leather said:
Well the ONR polymers should also be adding very little to the protection of your paint. For me, Opti-seal is about 2-3 months but that is after washing/claying/EZ creme to clean the paint/then opti-seal. It doesn't bead like some may want for a lengthy time, but it sheets more. Thus making it better after a rain so you don't have to have water spots.
Click to expand...



Yep, I agree with this.



In one of those rare periods where I didn't add any additional protection in almost 4 months, I felt like the OS was still giving me some protection.
 
jdoria said:
Personal cars is ONR in the winter (0f-33f)



1Z Einszett Perls in above 40F (34f-39f get nothing...haha)



I used to use Chemical guys Citrus Wash & Gloss, but worried about the "gloss" detracting from the LSP.



I need something to shoot through the foam lance for entertainment. i've heard that Optimum Wash is a champ, valid?
Click to expand...



Optimum wash is killer through a foam gun...at least as good as DP extreme foam and it smells MUCH better.
 
jdoria said:
Integrity - You, Scottwax, and Anthony Orosco are the Optimum spokesmen.
Click to expand...



I wouldn't say I am an Optimum spokesman but I am very familiar with their products. Same with Clearkote and Meguiars.
 
Scott - being familiar with TX sun, which product lasts the longest on a car left out 24/7 (Austin area is similar to Dallas)? I will specify I am not a pro, just a weekend warrior looking for the best performance/$. KAIO seems to be ok, but I have not tried the Optimum line.
 
grungy said:
Scott - being familiar with TX sun, which product lasts the longest on a car left out 24/7 (Austin area is similar to Dallas)? I will specify I am not a pro, just a weekend warrior looking for the best performance/$. KAIO seems to be ok, but I have not tried the Optimum line.
Click to expand...



I'd say on about 90% of the cars I do, I use either Opti-Seal or Clearkote's Carnauba Moose. On my own car I use OCW over a base of OS because it just looks so good.
 
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