Opinion needed (again :) )
- Thread starter pampos
- Start date
Looks like you have some hazing in the second picture...and try and get those pictures outside so you can see better. Different types of light show different defects...also next time, do some 50/50 shots, this way you can see the difference better and also show it to the customer!
Other than that it looks good..and I'm not a professional...I just like what I do!
Other than that it looks good..and I'm not a professional...I just like what I do!
I also see a bit of hazing in the second one.
What type of polisher are you using? DA? Rotary?
Acura paint is pretty soft, so you really need a gentle finishing polish and pad combo to get a really clear finish out of it. Get yourself some Megs #82, Menzerna PO85RD or 3M Ultrafina and you can probably get rid of that.
Looks like a really solid finish though. Just keep in mind that removing the scratches is only part of the job, refining the finish is what really separates a pro from a weekend warrior.
What type of polisher are you using? DA? Rotary?
Acura paint is pretty soft, so you really need a gentle finishing polish and pad combo to get a really clear finish out of it. Get yourself some Megs #82, Menzerna PO85RD or 3M Ultrafina and you can probably get rid of that.
Looks like a really solid finish though. Just keep in mind that removing the scratches is only part of the job, refining the finish is what really separates a pro from a weekend warrior.
jswift2000
New member
If you want something a little less expensive for a finish polish, pick up some Sonus SFX-3 and use a blue pad.
ajnavo61490
AJ Auto Detail, LLC
prolly touch up that chrome on the front with some Klasse AIO and fix the haze
other than that, great job!:woot2:
other than that, great job!:woot2:
imported_Calogero
New member
It look pretty good.
It is so hard to see the hazing in that light. Take some more pics in the sun and then we'll be able to better judge it.
I mean what might look like hazing could be just mere shadows.
Pictures can hide things pretty good sometimes or not show enough detail depending on angle.
It is so hard to see the hazing in that light. Take some more pics in the sun and then we'll be able to better judge it.
I mean what might look like hazing could be just mere shadows.
Pictures can hide things pretty good sometimes or not show enough detail depending on angle.
The problem is that before i got the car,they polished it by rotary polisher creating heavy swirl marks.They tried again and again to repair them (by rotary polisher again) and they made it worse.Since then (3 years ago) i was trying to repair the paint by hand polishes, swirl remover,glazes etc.I tried Autoglym super resin polish,Autoglym deep shine,Meguiars scratch-X and many more, without any results.Then i bought the Ultimate Detailing machine and i tried it using the scratch-X on the white pad(SFX-2 SonusPad) and to be honest i saw big difference.Because i am not sure about the clear coat's level(because of the "professional" detailer) and because of my experiments, i don't know what to do.Now i have in my "collection" the UDM Polisher,the 3 steps of SFX Polish,the Meguiars scratch-X, the Meguiars paint cleanser(step 1) and polish (step 2),the Klasse-All-in-One.the Klasse glaze,carnauba wax,the SFX pads(steps SFX-1,SFX-2,SFX-3 Pads),the DAS Pads (white,orange green and blue),the Sonus swirlbuster polish and the Sonus paint cleanser.Please tell me if you can what is the better and safer way to combine those products (i mean the best combination, not all of them : ) ) to have the best possible results.
If that was a $100 detail then thats an awesome buff job.
If that cost $500 then its pretty average and i would expect flawless photo's.
Charge by the quality of the work.
If you think there are some slight holograms or marring left then you cant charge top dollar.
I'd rather have the swirls removed and be left with some marring than having none of the swirls removed at all.
A $200 detail can always have a 4 step machine polish to insure the swirls are removed and the a flawless finish. By doing a 2 step machine polish you have bigger gaps between each step so the last step might have to be slightly more aggressive results.
If you pay the best professional in the world $50.. they wouldn't even attempt to start removing swirls. So you'd already be a step above them. If the paint is 99% flawless you can still be a professional :2thumbs:
If that cost $500 then its pretty average and i would expect flawless photo's.
Charge by the quality of the work.
If you think there are some slight holograms or marring left then you cant charge top dollar.
I'd rather have the swirls removed and be left with some marring than having none of the swirls removed at all.
A $200 detail can always have a 4 step machine polish to insure the swirls are removed and the a flawless finish. By doing a 2 step machine polish you have bigger gaps between each step so the last step might have to be slightly more aggressive results.
If you pay the best professional in the world $50.. they wouldn't even attempt to start removing swirls. So you'd already be a step above them. If the paint is 99% flawless you can still be a professional :2thumbs:
If you used just the SFX-3 with the "2" pad, the hazing you are seeing would be left on polish and/or wax smearing. Unless you were running your UDM on top speed and Very quickly moving the pad, you should not get hazing on that mild of a polish. Use some "instant detailer" on your MF cloths, and the wax should smear less.
In a nutshell, to remove heavy or deep scratches, you simply move up the line of polish strengths(start with SFX-3) with a matching pad "3" and increase until the scratches are being removed. If this does not remove the scratches, try the SFX-2 with the 2 pad and look at results, then lastly SFX-1 with the 1 pad if they are deep scratches. The "problem" with having to go to the most aggressive polish is that it may remove the deep scratches, but cause very small swirls in the paint which looks like a "haze" on the paint. So if you use the SFX-1 with a 1 pad, you then must move down the line of polishes to remove the "haze" created by the more aggressive polish. These are the 2-4 steps of polishing you see on this web site!
Being a pro with experience on different paints allows you to save time as you will start knowing the various hardness of paints and what will work with them. ie- a GM clear coat is usually very hard and will require aggressive polishes and a few polishing stages, but many Japanese paints are soft and only require a milder polish to remove scratches.
In you collection, use the SFX line to polish, use the Color X to remove scratches by hand under door jambs etc, use your AIO as a final polish/sealant, and use waxes as a final sealant. (The beauty of AIO is that you can use it as a polish after using milder polishes saving you a 'paint cleaning" step) The Megs step 1 and 2 and most "paint cleaners' do little or nothing to remove scratches and are only useful for oxidation-I have some when I first started years ago and they are still there! The same goes for the glaze products-they are only masking the scratches, not removing them.
Most detailers here will do a either a "1 step polish' which is usually a medium polish to remove oxidation and reduce scratches but finish with no haze. (Your SFX-2 with white pad, then apply wax with white or black pad.). Then if the customer wants perfection, you would have to use more aggressive pads/compounds/machines-rotary to remove scratches and work back down with finer polishes and pads which would give you the 2-4 polishing steps and multiple wax steps for the ultimate shine!
Hope this helps!
In a nutshell, to remove heavy or deep scratches, you simply move up the line of polish strengths(start with SFX-3) with a matching pad "3" and increase until the scratches are being removed. If this does not remove the scratches, try the SFX-2 with the 2 pad and look at results, then lastly SFX-1 with the 1 pad if they are deep scratches. The "problem" with having to go to the most aggressive polish is that it may remove the deep scratches, but cause very small swirls in the paint which looks like a "haze" on the paint. So if you use the SFX-1 with a 1 pad, you then must move down the line of polishes to remove the "haze" created by the more aggressive polish. These are the 2-4 steps of polishing you see on this web site!
Being a pro with experience on different paints allows you to save time as you will start knowing the various hardness of paints and what will work with them. ie- a GM clear coat is usually very hard and will require aggressive polishes and a few polishing stages, but many Japanese paints are soft and only require a milder polish to remove scratches.
In you collection, use the SFX line to polish, use the Color X to remove scratches by hand under door jambs etc, use your AIO as a final polish/sealant, and use waxes as a final sealant. (The beauty of AIO is that you can use it as a polish after using milder polishes saving you a 'paint cleaning" step) The Megs step 1 and 2 and most "paint cleaners' do little or nothing to remove scratches and are only useful for oxidation-I have some when I first started years ago and they are still there! The same goes for the glaze products-they are only masking the scratches, not removing them.
Most detailers here will do a either a "1 step polish' which is usually a medium polish to remove oxidation and reduce scratches but finish with no haze. (Your SFX-2 with white pad, then apply wax with white or black pad.). Then if the customer wants perfection, you would have to use more aggressive pads/compounds/machines-rotary to remove scratches and work back down with finer polishes and pads which would give you the 2-4 polishing steps and multiple wax steps for the ultimate shine!
Hope this helps!