Oops!!
- Thread starter Fishroes
- Start date
But on the other hand Yvan applyied CCR on a single stage paint on the truck in one of the first videos. It would have been awesome if it where available in smaller sizes for some touch up. Cause I think that it would be worth a shot at that kind of damage you have.
Did you noticed any paint transfer on the polishing pad? Are you sure you buffed of the p1500 grit sanding marks? And did do much spot correction on the area you touched up? And for how long or how many times do think you approximately whent over with the p1500?
Just in case you don`t have to repaint it. Can you try to get a picture with the flash on and in the damage spot?
It`s very sad and you get angry at your self when this happens. The risk is high when you do correction on this level. If you find a great bodyshop only you would know it`s been repainted as they are really great these guys and gals that knows what they are doing and it will look oem made. The upside is you get often more clearcoat to polish after the repaint LOL.
Did you noticed any paint transfer on the polishing pad? Are you sure you buffed of the p1500 grit sanding marks? And did do much spot correction on the area you touched up? And for how long or how many times do think you approximately whent over with the p1500?
Just in case you don`t have to repaint it. Can you try to get a picture with the flash on and in the damage spot?
It`s very sad and you get angry at your self when this happens. The risk is high when you do correction on this level. If you find a great bodyshop only you would know it`s been repainted as they are really great these guys and gals that knows what they are doing and it will look oem made. The upside is you get often more clearcoat to polish after the repaint LOL.
Accumulator
Well-known member
They reshot the whole panel with both basecoat and clear, but my situation might`ve been different as there was a too-deep RIDS there (the reason I went ahead and, knowingly, got so aggressive). It *had* to be repainted anyhow as a touchup wouldn`t have been good enough for me so I had nothing to lose and wondered what a mild combo would do if I were more aggressive than I considered prudent.
FWIW, my painter said he wouldn`t have just reshot the clear anyhow, but that was just his take on it and this was back in the days before water-borne paint.
While it`s easy for us to spend your money, I`d take Mike lambert`s advice and get it done right. That`s an obvious place on an otherwise nice vehicle, and I`d just want to get it sorted out so I could put the whole thing behind me as a lesson learned.
Since you didn`t sand the bigger spot I think that you got through the clearcoat sadly. As you can see a little darker area in the spot on the picture in the sunlight. Is the touch up paint proberly and around it is the oem paint without clearcoat. And to get it really great a repaint is the only option to really know it gets great. It would be very interesting to see what the Optimum CCR could do to defects like when you go through the clearcoat. But totaly understand that you don`t as it`s pricey experiment to do. And if it`s not a success it`s an unwanted extra cost. Man if they would have a smaller and cheaper size of the CCR.
I would just like to mention that when going with a smaller backing plate as the 3" on a DA polisher that have 5" or 6" backing plates. They get very much more powerfull to spinning the backing plate. So you can even have them very effective on the speed setting 1-2. Also it`s hard when doing smaller areas and you will be very carefully to count the passes and also take the armspeed in consideration. And also you get a high amount of abrasives from the compound in one spot and it`s not easy to just go with a very small dot of product. Think how you normaly spread it out when polishing and if you would be able count the amount of product in a spot as the size you polished. So spot correction is very aggressive to do. And this all in count makes it easy to go through the clearcoat than you would think. Many have done it and will be doing it even if it`s not a big comfort just now.
I would just like to mention that when going with a smaller backing plate as the 3" on a DA polisher that have 5" or 6" backing plates. They get very much more powerfull to spinning the backing plate. So you can even have them very effective on the speed setting 1-2. Also it`s hard when doing smaller areas and you will be very carefully to count the passes and also take the armspeed in consideration. And also you get a high amount of abrasives from the compound in one spot and it`s not easy to just go with a very small dot of product. Think how you normaly spread it out when polishing and if you would be able count the amount of product in a spot as the size you polished. So spot correction is very aggressive to do. And this all in count makes it easy to go through the clearcoat than you would think. Many have done it and will be doing it even if it`s not a big comfort just now.
Body shop said I only compromised the clear
$325. Went ahead and scheduled it
I asked him about the prep work
He said they will sand the whole door and spray
I asked him do they compound the sanding marks and he said no the clear will cover them
Asked about factory paint quality. He said they don’t hardly put any paint on them anymore and most are water base
$325. Went ahead and scheduled it
I asked him about the prep work
He said they will sand the whole door and spray
I asked him do they compound the sanding marks and he said no the clear will cover them
Asked about factory paint quality. He said they don’t hardly put any paint on them anymore and most are water base
wannafbody
wannafbody
My opinion on the Optimum Clear Coat Restorer was based on a video I saw on YT that indicated that it wouldn`t work if the clear was missing.
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
I had a test subject that had been sitting outside for 16 years and had some failed clear on the plastic parts. I decided I`ve had enough isocyanates in my life and couldn`t get an MSDS on the CCR so I decided to try the Gelcoat Restorer since it was cheaper, didn`t have to be kept in the freezer, and seemed pretty safe.
The Gelcoat Restorer came out before the CCR, and when it did, it sounded like it might work great on failed clear, but on the Optimum forum, they said--"oh no, it`s not for that...besides we have another product we`re working on for clearcoat" (which turned out to be CCR). But what the heck, danger is my middle name...so I tried the Gelcoat Restorer on the failed clear...and it darkened it, shined it up, and made it bead water. I`m not saying it looks like it has clearcoat on it...but it looks better than it did.
So I realized while using the Gelcoat Restorer that it seemed an awful lot like a tire coating...and I had a whole quart of it...so I decided to try it as a tire coating. It went on like a tire coating, turned blue like a tire coating, dried like a tire coating. If it quacks like a duck...it`s a tire coating. Well, anyway, I have it on the back of one of my tires, I`ll let you know how it held up in a year when it`s time to rotate again.
Moral of the story, don`t take OPT too literally on this stuff, I`m sure someone at some point is going to try CCR on failed clear or a burn through.
wannafbody
wannafbody
Nothing wrong with thinking outside the box and trying stuff.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Fishroes- Sounds like they`re gonna fix it right up, glad to hear that.
wannafbody
wannafbody
I forgot about the Quix clearcoat pen. That would work on a smaller burn through.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Fishroes- Hey, that`s all good news 
What`re you gonna use on the fresh clear? FWIW I`d use OCW, and my experiences with it on fresh paint were so good that I`m still using it as a standalone on my wife`s A8.
What`re you gonna use on the fresh clear? FWIW I`d use OCW, and my experiences with it on fresh paint were so good that I`m still using it as a standalone on my wife`s A8.
Accumulator, I’m shocked that you didn’t recommend FK1000
It will be Jescar Powerlock or FK It would probably be FK hands down if it wasn’t for the trim staining
Both are pretty close in longevity but Powerlock is much easier to apply (with gg6)
Ive never tried opt car wax (I hate acronyms) I need to use some of what I have up before spending more money
It will be Jescar Powerlock or FK It would probably be FK hands down if it wasn’t for the trim staining
Both are pretty close in longevity but Powerlock is much easier to apply (with gg6)
Ive never tried opt car wax (I hate acronyms) I need to use some of what I have up before spending more money
Accumulator
Well-known member
Heh heh, oh, but I DO! OK, OK...if you like PowerLock because the trim, go for it
BUT I wouldn`t use either until after the paint finishes outgassing (always at least 90 days IME, even when "baked"). For the first three-four months I`d use the OCW so the new clear attains max potential hardness.
I always *LOVED LOVED LOVED* M05 New Car Glaze (and did OK with 3m Imperial Hand Glaze too), but the OCW is better, and testing by Ford proved it OK for fresh repaints ("post-production paintwork" they called it).
Easy for me to spend your money, but I`d hate for you to end up with stupid-soft clear just because you used the wrong wax too soon.
EDIT: I spelled out the 3M IHG since you hate acronyms
I did not ask the body shop this time but the last time they did paint work for me they said I could put anything I want on it after 30 days
It will be close to 60 days because I want to wait until the garage is finished so I can do my annual detail in there
The framer can’t start until after 4 July
Thanks for the spelling
It will be close to 60 days because I want to wait until the garage is finished so I can do my annual detail in there
The framer can’t start until after 4 July
Thanks for the spelling
Accumulator
Well-known member
My painters are usually very good...but they just don`t always know from this particular topic, maybe yours is the same. I`ve shown my painter the official literature from his paint manufacturer that said "wait at least.." and he was all "huh, whaddya know.."
I`ve had numerous cases of first-hand experience with how long it can take to fully harden up, and oh boy can it take a long time! If you can still smell the new paint on a hot day, then I`d absolutely wait, and/but OK...I guess only Yours Truly waits months even when I can`t smell it.
Well, I won`t wish any delays upon you, hope they stick to the schedule. But 60 is better than 30 IMO.
Heh heh, you`re welcome
I`ve gotten pretty bad about all the acronyms, looking for shortcuts what with all the posting (AKA "wasting of bandwidth" 
) I seem to do.