Ooops.....

[RedLight_Si]

I can't see how that happened. Have you always had the car? If not, I would guess someone has wetsanded there before and reduced the clear. Is there a texture?

Yea, I have always had it. When say texture,do you mean like an orange peel sort of thing? If so,im not sure about that particular spot. Id have to check more closely. The whole rest of the car though, I know seems to have an orange peel effect.

I would go to a detail shop and ask them to recommend a painter. I've only been in this town 5 months, and I know from customer testimony and dealers which refinishers do what kind of job. I can find a cheap guy that does quality stuff, a mid-range shop that can go mild or spicy, or a top dollar shop. I'm sure a local detailer can do the same and let you know if there are other options.

I might go back to the dealership first and see what they will do for me, if anything at all.


Steve

 

[maximv1]

most car companies have a paint warranty that lasts alot longe than service warranty. i work at a dealer, and that shouldn't happen on a three year old car. take it back and see if they will help you out.

 

[Brenton]

Redlight, I meant texture like rough. You'd be amazed how gummy burnt compound can be, yet with some hand buffing it comes off. Or if it is rough, different than the paint around it, it may be you are into base or primer.

 

[RedLight_Si]

most car companies have a paint warranty that lasts alot longe than service warranty. i work at a dealer, and that shouldn't happen on a three year old car. take it back and see if they will help you out.

What do you think I should say? I think the moment I mention the word "buffer", its all over.

 

[RedLight_Si]

Redlight, I meant texture like rough. You'd be amazed how gummy burnt compound can be, yet with some hand buffing it comes off. Or if it is rough, different than the paint around it, it may be you are into base or primer.

It seems to be quite smooth, but Ill check again. I would be so happy if it was burnt compound,but something tells that it isnt.

 

[maximv1]

tell them you were polishing it with a pc. most good body shop workers know a pc is not strong enough to go through good paint. they should have a thickness gauge that they can compare the paint to to check if it is thinner in some areas than it should be. if you do your service there, and make enough of a concern about, they should take care of it for you.

 

[Brenton]

What do you think I should say? I think the moment I mention the word "buffer", its all over.

I'd go to them and say, "what's this?" They are the experts.

 

[WX51 TXR]

Oh dear... all good advice on here though. I would add that I have always found it best to start as gentle as possible and then get more aggressive if needs be. Folks laugh at me, but I always reach for SSR1 via white polishing pad on new cars whose paint I am unsure about. If it's not up to the job I then go down to SSR2.5 via white polishing pad. Final option is the cutting pad, and I still hate using them. I've been amazed at what you can get out with SSR1/2.5 via polishing pad at speeds 5-6 when you take your time. If your confidence with the PC has been dented take some time out with the SSR1 via a polishing pad - you'll soon feel confident again. :yes:

 

[joe.p]

most car companies have a paint warranty that lasts alot longe than service warranty. i work at a dealer, and that shouldn't happen on a three year old car. take it back and see if they will help you out.

warranty's will cover defect's in the paint clearcoat failure, pealing paint etc and in most case's many of thier cars will have the same problem but in this case lets say their was a defect, once somebody looks at the paint and see this happend when being detailed there's no way there gonna except responseability, human error not paint failure. had he brought the car to have it detailed and picked it up in that condition then he would have a case. i hope things work out for you keep us posted.

continue on with the pc don't give up. fwiw : by the way in one of my old threads budman3 suggests to use a polishing pad when using pbs swirl removers.

 

[mgm2003]

This is an operator error -not a defective paint job.

If you run your pads on the edges they will heat your paint, regardless of the polisher that you are using. Some do it quicker than others (i.e rotary vs. PC). -BUT- they will ALL HEAT PAINT when you run them on the pad edge.

Cutting pads and cutting products level your clear coat/paint, period. They should be used as an exception, not every time that you polish your car.

I have seen the PC burn paint first hand, The operator was trying to remove a scratch using an orange pad, on an angle. I've made mistakes too. Think of it as a learning experience, it's not the end of the world. Just be glad that you were working on your car vs. a customers. Re-spraying a fender should cost somewhere between $200-300.

The PC is a wonderful tool, but at the same time, it's a machine and can cause damage if used improperly.

-Keep your pads flat.
-Start out using the least aggressive pad/chemical
-Keep the polisher moving (i.e. -don't sit on one spot for any period of time)

 

[RedLight_Si]

tell them you were polishing it with a pc. most good body shop workers know a pc is not strong enough to go through good paint. they should have a thickness gauge that they can compare the paint to to check if it is thinner in some areas than it should be. if you do your service there, and make enough of a concern about, they should take care of it for you.

Thats the thing, I dont really do my service there anymore. I dont really care for the service department where I bought my car. I guess I can give it a try. Maybe I should call corporate? They will probably just tell me to take it back to the dealership anyway.

 

[RedLight_Si]

I'd go to them and say, "what's this?" They are the experts.

I can try that, but they will probably be able to tell immediately that I used a buffer, and I dont want to lie and tell them I didnt.

 

[Brenton]

I can try that, but they will probably be able to tell immediately that I used a buffer, and I dont want to lie and tell them I didnt.

No, I mean "what's this?" as in "why is there a burn mark here from buffing when this is new and supposedly high quality Japanese paint?"

 

[RedLight_Si]

Oh dear... all good advice on here though. I would add that I have always found it best to start as gentle as possible and then get more aggressive if needs be. Folks laugh at me, but I always reach for SSR1 via white polishing pad on new cars whose paint I am unsure about. If it's not up to the job I then go down to SSR2.5 via white polishing pad. Final option is the cutting pad, and I still hate using them. I've been amazed at what you can get out with SSR1/2.5 via polishing pad at speeds 5-6 when you take your time. If your confidence with the PC has been dented take some time out with the SSR1 via a polishing pad - you'll soon feel confident again. :yes:

I actually started out using the SSR1 with a white polishing pad. I didnt really like how it was going so I stepped it up to the SSR2.5 with an orange cutting pad. That was the big mistake. I should of used the SSR2.5 with a white pad, like you said. I only have one though and I already used the SSR1 with it. Need to get some more. I will only stick with a white polishing pad from now on.

 

[RedLight_Si]

warranty's will cover defect's in the paint clearcoat failure, pealing paint etc and in most case's many of thier cars will have the same problem but in this case lets say their was a defect, once somebody looks at the paint and see this happend when being detailed there's no way there gonna except responseability, human error not paint failure. had he brought the car to have it detailed and picked it up in that condition then he would have a case. i hope things work out for you keep us posted.

continue on with the pc don't give up. fwiw : by the way in one of my old threads budman3 suggests to use a polishing pad when using pbs swirl removers.

Thanks. budman3 actually responded to one my recent posts before this all happened suggesting all that I would need was a polishing pad with the SSR1 and SSR2.5. I guess I should have listened.

 

[RedLight_Si]

This is an operator error -not a defective paint job.

If you run your pads on the edges they will heat your paint, regardless of the polisher that you are using. Some do it quicker than others (i.e rotary vs. PC). -BUT- they will ALL HEAT PAINT when you run them on the pad edge.

Cutting pads and cutting products level your clear coat/paint, period. They should be used as an exception, not every time that you polish your car.

I have seen the PC burn paint first hand, The operator was trying to remove a scratch using an orange pad, on an angle. I've made mistakes too. Think of it as a learning experience, it's not the end of the world. Just be glad that you were working on your car vs. a customers. Re-spraying a fender should cost somewhere between $200-300.

The PC is a wonderful tool, but at the same time, it's a machine and can cause damage if used improperly.

-Keep your pads flat.
-Start out using the least aggressive pad/chemical
-Keep the polisher moving (i.e. -don't sit on one spot for any period of time)

Do you think the pads were part of the problem? I mean I know I shouldnt have used the orange pad, but the pads are the CP(Constant Pressure) kind and are concave without any pressure of them. Do you think maybe if I wasnt applying enough pressure that could do some damage? Here are some pics of the orange pad.

 

[RedLight_Si]

No, I mean "what's this?" as in "why is there a burn mark here from buffing when this is new and supposedly high quality Japanese paint?"

How long would you consider paint to be new?

 

[budman3]

I think that there wasn't one thing that went wrong. It seems like a few different things happened which resulted with this unfortunate incident such as the cutting pad, the paint itself maybe, the curved panel, inexperience, tempature, etc. I personal though that it was near impossible, as you amoung others thought, to harm paint with a PC. Now I wonder if there is any way to minimize the look? I haven't delt with burnt paint before with the PC or Rotary so I'm no good in that category. I've practiced with SSR3 and a wool pad on a spare hood to remove sanding marks and didn't have any affects like this. I wouldn't let this get your hopes up... easier for me to say because I don't have to stand with the paint looking bad... but from the pics it looks like you did a good job of getting rid of the rest of the swirls and hope they're gone for a while.

 

[Brenton]

How long would you consider paint to be new?

I don't know really. I'm increasingly disappointed in the dropping quality of paint. The bumpers on Nissans, Suburus and Kias are crap. GM's orange peel is getting on my nerves. I'd just hate to see Honda on that list. Ask them what they think.

 

[joe.p]

I think that there wasn't one thing that went wrong. It seems like a few different things happened which resulted with this unfortunate incident such as the cutting pad, the paint itself maybe, the curved panel, inexperience, tempature, etc. I personal though that it was near impossible, as you amoung others thought, to harm paint with a PC. Now I wonder if there is any way to minimize the look? I haven't delt with burnt paint before with the PC or Rotary so I'm no good in that category. I've practiced with SSR3 and a wool pad on a spare hood to remove sanding marks and didn't have any affects like this. I wouldn't let this get your hopes up... easier for me to say because I don't have to stand with the paint looking bad... but from the pics it looks like you did a good job of getting rid of the rest of the swirls and hope they're gone for a while.

i agree for whatever reason maybe the paint was a little softer and that edge being somewhat rounded and a combination of other things. you did a nice job and it was something that happend i think you should chulk it up as exp and have it repaired when you can afford it, again the rest of the car looks nice.