ONR kills 845 but how does it act on 1000p vs 476 ?

F

Fallz

New member
In the past when Ive had 845 on a vehicle the ONR kinda killed it (as well as DG rinse less wash) , I always thought 845 was stronger than that but , guess not. 


 


Any idea how it effects 1000p or 476s ?


 


Also what differences are you guys seeing between the 1000p vs the 476 ? as far a shine /durability goes for winter. 


 
 
I hear the newer version of ONR is much more Collinite-friendly.  The older stuff messed with my 476S as well as with 845.  Never had the issue with FK1000P.


 


I used to use 476S on the (year-round/winter) SUV, but when I switched to FK1000P the durability was *GREATLY* improved, as in...well, no comparison.  The look is very different though ( the FK is much more "bright" and sealanty, with considerably less depth/jetting).  I can see somebody greatly preferring the look of one over the other, at least on certain colors.
 
I did a DG 105 polish on my hood and then topped with 1000p  ( one coat )  . After 3 or 4 touchless washes it beads like crazy. On silver I would welcome the sealant glass look. 


 


Mike
 
I never found 845 as good as people were saying as far as durability went .. no matter what I washed it with .. I did 1/2 my winter waxes on customers cars 2 winters ago with 845 and 1/2 with #21  and come spring the 21 had far out performed it. Some of these cars were hardly washed during winter , maybe the odd spray wash. If 845 was originally formulated for insulators maybe it was also designed not to be washed very often or at all and not by some of the exotic stuff we use.


 


  BTW I like the 1000p look on my burgundy 2013 Civic  and on most the other 17 rigs I have used it on.
 
Canadian Winters: 845 goes through 6 months of it and when my clients come back in spring, some cars still bead a little.


 


Your climate might be different, but it mgiht also be prep.
 
I'm in BC .. you sure the beading isn't from the wash soap your using? I couldn't get 3 months on my own car and its pampered.
 
The beads are very tight and I use the basic wash so it does not out any of the stuff on except soap, spot free rinse. 
 
Jesstzn- Glad you're still liking the FK1000P after the hard-sell I did on it!


 


IME 845 lasts a lot longer when it's layered, and it may well be sensitive to certain shampoos.  It's not *BAD* for me when washed with Griot's, but it's not as durable as 476S, which in turn isn't as durable as FK1000P.  The primary diff I can use as an example is that after a tough winter (vehicle utterly salted/filthy almost daily, washed very frequently with a strong GG shampoo mix) the Collinite (either one) would need redone come Spring, or maybe even mid-Winter, to maintain the "just waxed" effect, whereas the FK doesn't need that.


 


Funny thing about the Collinite is how FK425 QD can *really*  mess it up...some kind of solvent action or somesuch that resulted in nasty pseudo-holograms that were an incredible PIA to fix.  Note that this was on the '93 Audi which has *very* compromised paint, which may well have factored in.


 


You folks using a spray-wax/leaves-stuff-behind QD after each wash?  IMO it provides a bit of a sacrificial layer that can help whatever LSP hold up longer.
 
Jesstzn said:
I'm in BC .. you sure the beading isn't from the wash soap your using? I couldn't get 3 months on my own car and its pampered.
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the cars that come back in spring are generally not washed often in winter, and whent hey are, it's touchles 3-4 times. When I get them, it's heavy-duty degreaser since I'm polishing and re-waxing, so I don't think it's because of teh soap :p
 
Since we're discussing 476S (which I just refreshed on the '93 Audi), anybody else using the 476S on black plastic exterior trim?

No, it's not *nearly* as foolproof as 845 on such surfaces, but it generally *is* Accumulator-proof ;)  I've also done this with the FK1000P, but I do consider both to be in the "don't try this at home, kids!" category
 
476 is more durable than 845 and should hold up fairly. 476 is the same product as Collinite 885 FleetWax that's used on marine surfaces. Like any carnauba wax, the key is getting the right combo of dry time to amount of work you want to do, especially with a paste like 476. We try to keep the surface around 70 degrees when applying, to allow it to dry without chalking from too much heat. We do both boats and cars, and found the proper surface temp is key with the Collinite products.  I think it's easier to buff of than 845, which can get a little streaky on darker finishes when buffing off. 


 


BTW, we buy case quantities of both 845 and 476 at , the pricing is very good and beats buying a bottle at a time.
 
OTR- Welcome to Autopia!


 


Interesting about the temp being such a significant factor for you and how you find 476S easier to work with.  I've always found both to be Accumulator-proof; I just apply to the whole vehicle (often by machine), then go back to the starting point and buff off.  Between very small/large vehicles that can make for some very different timeframes, but I never noticed anything being an issue.


 


And I hear you on the case-quantites, but oh man, you must do a *LOT* of work!  I got a case of 476S back before the VOC-reg changes to it, and I figure it'll last me the rest of my life (seemingly infinite shelf-life, fortunately).
 
Jesstzn said:
I never found 845 as good as people were saying as far as durability went .. no matter what I washed it with .. 


 


 
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Agree 100%. Honestly, I don't really get the love for 845. Collinite 476 is a much better product, IMO. Looks better, beads better and lasts longer. And its pretty easy to use. 
 
Fallguy said:
I did a DG 105 polish on my hood and then topped with 1000p  ( one coat )  . After 3 or 4 touchless washes it beads like crazy. On silver I would welcome the sealant glass look. 


 


Mike
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I just bought a VW GTI and with lack of money right now I am using standard sealants on the car. I've been layering DG 105 for a while now here and there after a wash. Each layer has brought more of the "candy" look out of the paint (black). I will likely finally top it with Powerlock in a week or so.


 


BTW, I know many don't believe in layering but DG supposedly doesn't remove itself or so I've read and the look does indeed change. The slickness of 105 is not the greatest no, but powerlock's slickness is quite nice.
 
I meant to add that I haven't tried ONR on the 105, but with as durable as it has been for me in the past I would imagine that it would have no issue with ONR.
 
I have always been a Collinite fan as an LSP, over PwS, DG 501, 105, 101 and 111, using 845, 476 and 915.  My teen age daughter had an accident last March, needed a new hood on our Ford Focus.  The aftermarket clear coat is very soft, and scratched very easily.  I am hoping 2 coats of FK1000P will help with that.
 
RPPM said:
I have always been a Collinite fan as an LSP, over PwS, DG 501, 105, 101 and 111, using 845, 476 and 915.  My teen age daughter had an accident last March, needed a new hood on our Ford Focus.  The aftermarket clear coat is very soft, and scratched very easily.  I am hoping 2 coats of FK1000P will help with that.
Click to expand...


 


not likely, you would need something like an opti-coat, 22PLE, Cquartz, etc to help with scratching.
 
The primary anti-marring benefit of FK1000P is the way it sheds contamination so readily.  And the way it protects against etching from various things.


 


That said, if a bodyshop did one of my vehicles with stupid-soft clear I'd have it redone with something decent.
 
<span style="color:rgb(40,40,40);font-family:'helvetica neue', helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">whereas the FK doesn't need that.
hu11f.jpg
 
 
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