oil change

Along with the oil change question, what about the different types of oil? There's so many I don't know what it all means. There's like 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30, 10W-40, etc. I've just been getting 10W-30 oil for my car. Also any reasons to use synthetic oil rather than conventional oil? Would it make changing your oil easier? (Went to the Bob oil guy website, but the layout and navigation is very bad, couldn't find anything I was looking for, except maybe that filter study).
 
Your owner's manual will specify the viscosity or viscosities you should use in your car. If you don't have an owner's manual, you should get some sort of shop manual, particularly with the kind of work you are contemplating doing in your other thread. If you don't want to do that, the oil filler cap or dipstick may say what viscosity oil to use, if not, I'm sure someone on here will volunteer it for you.
 
MikeWinLDS said:
Along with the oil change question, what about the different types of oil? There's so many I don't know what it all means. There's like 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30, 10W-40, etc. I've just been getting 10W-30 oil for my car. Also any reasons to use synthetic oil rather than conventional oil? Would it make changing your oil easier? (Went to the Bob oil guy website, but the layout and navigation is very bad, couldn't find anything I was looking for, except maybe that filter study).
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The numbers on the oil bottles represent its viscosity (resistance to flow). The first set (xw or xxw) indicates its ability to flow in bench tests that are conducted at temperatures of around zero and below. The lower the number, the easier it will flow in cold temps, allowing easy starting and quickly lubricating your engine. The second set of numbers (ie 20, 30, 40) indicate its viscosity at tests conducted at about 212 degrees. The higher the number the more resistance to flow. You really should read what your owners manual says about what oil viscosity to run in your engine (if it is a new Honda it is probably 5W20). According the used oil reports that have been posted, these engines run very low wear rates with this oil.

As far as synthetics are concerned you can certainly use them if you want. Where they will out perform conventional oil is in sub zero temps and very high temps. If you live where starting your car in sub zero weather is common or you tow or drive triple digit speeds in the desert, then synthetics are a really good choice. If not then conventional oil will do just fine.

At bobistheoilguy it does take a lot of reading, but there is so much information it takes a long time to get through it all (just like this site) A few nights of intense reading and a person can learn about most brands and viscosities of oil. Hope this helps.
 
MikeWinLDS said:
Along with the oil change question, what about the different types of oil? There's so many I don't know what it all means. There's like 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30, 10W-40, etc. I've just been getting 10W-30 oil for my car. Also any reasons to use synthetic oil rather than conventional oil? Would it make changing your oil easier? (Went to the Bob oil guy website, but the layout and navigation is very bad, couldn't find anything I was looking for, except maybe that filter study).
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http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi



:rolleyes:
 
Bill D said:
Just strictly curious: I'm confused about new Mercedes oil filter changes, judging by the description below, the inside filter media is to be changed but the housing of the filter remains?
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Bill, most filters in the world consist of an element and a housing (think about the air filter on your car). There are probably other reasons, but probably partly to do with the mess, spin-on oil filters (an element and housing combo) have become common.
 
Doesn't appear to be the case with Mercedes unless they don't sell a typical disposable filter to the public :confused:



I've never seen oil filter media for a modern car sold by itself before.
 
Bill D, you are correct. On many cars now, the filters housings are a fixed unit with a removable cap, and all you do is unscrew the cap and replace the media inside. This is a very good idea and I think every vehicle should be like this. No more mess under the car, and you can see what's in your filter without having to cut it open like the AIO's. They even do this on the new Ford Powerstroke diesel engines.
 
hirosh said:
i agree. or so i heard. friends advice me not to get FRAM oil filters because they've been known to "blow out" i guess meaning they fall apart or something. also a co-worker was telling me when to use synthetics on a brand new car. i think he said something like not to use them until the engine has been broken in. and he got this advice from another co-worker who bracket races a 10-second camaro. anyone can verify this advice?
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Yep, they do actually blow out. Fram is all I used to use on my mustang until I got a high volume oil pump, and then one day the sucker blew right off the car and oil was EVERYWHERE! It's a good thing I was only driving about 10-15mph, otherwise I probably would have gotten into a wreck. Anyway, since then, all I use is either NAPA Racing or Ford Racing filters. They are more expensive but have better filter elements, flow better, and have a thicker gauge casing to withstand higher pressures.
 
Hey guys,



Thanks for the confirmation abvout those filters. This became more clear to me when I looked at a diagram of a few Mercedes engines from my Performance Products Mercedes catalog.



I sure wish Audi would have chosen that design too.
 
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