NXT Tech WAX COMPARED TO #20

explorer

New member
I am just trying to find how this NXT Tech Wax is going to compare to Meguiars #20.

Will it last longer?

Protect better?

Ease of application:nixweiss

I know that NXT is not around yet but maybe someone like Mike Phillips will chime in:xyxthumbs

Also how long before it hits the Canadian market? :wavey



Ho, yea will it give AIO and SG a run for it's money:nixweiss :D :xyxthumbs
 
If you read the posts Mike has made about it, you'll find a lot of comparative info. NXT is a pure polymer, #20 has some waxes in it. #20 also has some cleaning ability. NXT does not. NXT should be very deep, fill in swirls, and bead a lot. It should also be very durable. Compare that to what you think of #20, and there you go.
 
OK, now things seem a bit clearer for me, the NSX is a sealant (polymer), Meguiar's just calls it a synthetic wax I guess so the general public will understand it better
 
I would bet that the Pro version of the NXT (and there will be a pro version) will not have "wax" in the name. ;)
 
I hope to see this in Canada ASAP , being sold by the gallon and like you said the word Wax out of the container.

I'm buying #20 for now, need some protection, the winter is coming.

This is what I have planned;



Mothers california gold Car wash



Mothers pre-wax cleaner



DACP



P21S Paintwork Cleanser



Meguiars #20



P21s Concours-look Carnauba Wax





What do you guys think ?



Any suggestions, modifications?:wavey
 
Is the Mothers pre-wax cleaner more abrasive than DACP? I'm wondering maybe you should flip flop those 2 steps.
 
The use of both is probably redundant. If using both I would go with the cleaner first followed by the DACP. Why? I know the DACP will buffer out to a high gloss and remove minor surface marring. P21S will further enhance the gloss. JMO
 
Skip the Mother's pre wax cleaner and use a claybar instead. The prewax cleaner is mostly just kerosene anyway (take a whiff of it).





Clay and DACP are the pro way to go.
 
Biff - Pre-Wax Cleaner is an aluminum oxide based cleaner,. not mostly kerosene.



Considering the list of products, I'd skip PWC all together. Clay should be in there before DACP and after wash.
 
Bill D said:
Is the Mothers pre-wax cleaner more abrasive than DACP? I'm wondering maybe you should flip flop those 2 steps.
No way. It's just a really, really mild polish.



Some products have funny names and we're always seeing people confused by them. Pretty much all of the "Cleaner" products (PWC, all those Meguiar's products, etc.) are NOT meant to clean dirt and contamination off like the way clay does. They're all varying grades of polishes.



Likewise, I'd substitute the pre-wax cleaner step with clay. In most detail jobs a product like pre-wax cleaner often doesn't see much utility with all the other products people have on hand or plan on using...
 
explorer said:
I am just trying to find how this NXT Tech Wax is going to compare to Meguiar’s #20.

Just for the record, this is a completely new formula, nothing borrowed, (nothing blue), from #20 Formula.



Will it last longer?
Chemists says, "Yes".



Protect better?
Chemists says, "Yes".



Ease of application
Chemists say, and I say too, #20 is pretty easy to apply. In fact, I really like #20, it doesn't make paint as dark and clear as #26, Gold Class, or NXT Tech Wax, possibly not even as dark and clear as the lowly A-12 Meguiar's Cleaner Wax, but it does create high gloss and high shine, I think you S.P.F's, (Synthetic Polymer Fans), call this the Plasticy look?, although it’s probably less plasticy than most, (polishing oils).



It also leaves a very Dry & Slick surface. This is one of the reasons I like #20 and use it as my first layer of wax after machine cleaning and machine polishing customers cars. Not only does it lay down a long lasting, highly water and detergent resistant layer of polymer protection, but I feel the added slickness helps to reduce the potential for towel inflected scratches, or even accidental touching as I finish the car. Check it out and see for your self the next time you do a Complete on a car.



Complete is my term for taking a car’s finish through all of the necessary steps to take the finish to its Maximum Potential). In a way, this is a play on words, some might say stupid, because my Completes, only include the paint. No interior, no trunks, no engine compartments, no fender wells, and usually not even the door jambs unless I get splatter in them.



I’m doing a complete this weekend and will post the details in my Recent Details section of my forum. It’s a 1956 Oldsmobile. Finish is in excellent overall shape, I’m just going to remove the RIDS and take the finish to it’s Maximum Potential.



Anyway, to answer your question, both products are easy to apply, but the NXT Tech Wax in most cases will not dry as fast. (#20 dries really fast if you apply a thin coating). NXT Tech Wax contains a potent polymer and it’s a little different than any other wax I’ve ever applied. The chemists insist on wiping it off after it hazes, and then swipes clear. Instructions on the label say,



SHAKE WELL. For best results, apply to a clean, cool surface in the shade. If applying in the sun, make sure surface is still cool enough to touch. Apply small amount of product onto foam applicator and spread a thin, even coat on the entire vehicle and allow 10-15 minutes to cure. KEEP OFF VINYL, RUBBER, AND CLOTH SURFACES. Remove excess with a clean, 100% cotton, terry cloth towel, turning to a clean portion of the towel for final wipe.



The part about keeping the product off of vinyl, rubber and cloth surfaces is just common sense. While this product doesn’t turn as white as bad as other Meguiar’s waxes, (as well as some competitors), it’s not intended for application to these materials. So don’t read into this more than the common sense meaning.



So if your were to follow the above directions, for most people, they could begin wiping off the NXT Tech Wax at the point they started applying it, after they have finished applying it to the entire car. (Which is another way of saying it takes most people at least 15 minutes to apply a thin coating of wax to an entire car, exceptions for small cars like Mini Cooper’s, Boxter’s, Honda 2000’s, Z3’s, and such).



Also how long before it hits the Canadian market?

I don’t know. How’s that for honesty. I’ll ask when the crew gets back from SEMA. I’ll guess sometime after February.



Ho, yea will it give AIO and SG a run for it's money :nixweiss :D :xyxthumbs



Question: Are you supposed to let either of these two products dry/cure for a longer period of time after wipe off before getting them wet?



How’s that Explorer?



Mike
 
Scottwax said:
How about layerability?

I'm sure everyone wants the answer straight from Mike... However, it is a pure polymer, no cleaner. So I imagine it can layer to the same extent that you can really layer any other product like that. Mike has mentioned putting on two coats on some of the details he's done with it.
 
Hi Scottwax, and Aurora40 too, (Aurora40, you posted before I could finish typing this up)



This is still a very new polymer technology. What it can, and cannot do will have to be seen.



(How's that for a fluff answer?)



Seriously,



I asked the chemist in the early stages of this project if the polymers in this product could bond to one another. His response was "yes".



I read into this as to mean you can layer it, but the chemists, all of them), believe in the "Law of Diminishing Returns". That is to say, your car's paint, (or in Scottwax's case, his customers car's paint), can only hold so much wax, (or synthetic paint protectant, whatever word/term you choose to describe your protective coating, such as "Polish"). After the microscopic pores, fissures, cracks, and miscellaneous surface imperfections are completely filled with product, then any further application of product, for the most part, becomes excess and is wiped-off.



The goal is to fill the surface imperfections as thoroughly as possible in order to leave behind as much protection as possible. While polymers and such can and will bond to the surface, (areas above surface imperfections), this layer you leave behind is measured in microns, not inches, or even millimeters.



Two thin coats of any company's product, maybe three, is better than one sloppily applied thick coat. It insures easy wipe-off and thorough penetration and deposit of product.



Then, until these coatings have worn away to some degree, further application merely waste product.



That's not to say you can't enjoy applying a product and then admiring the results, you can. but are you actually leaving behind more and more film-build, chances are greater that you're not, versus chances are that your are.



In the old days with #7 Sealer Reseal Glaze, and today with #81 Hand Polish, because these products don't build-up, that is to say they do not have any Lasting Characteristics, Meguiar's has historically said you can apply them often.





Many owners of street rods and aniques cars have never done anything to their car's finish except to apply,



* Deep Crystal Polish

* #3 Machine Glaze, (by hand)

* #7 Show Car Glaze, (used to be called Sealer Reseal}Glaze

* #5 New Car Glaze



and now even newer products like,



* #9 Swirl Remover 2.0, (by hand)

* #81 Hand Polish



And that's all. These products are oily and they make paint look deep, dark, reflective and yes, even wet. Because cars like these tend not to be, Daily Drivers, they don't need protection, as in a protective coating to protect against the things, substances and elements that would attack the finish if these things could come into direct contact with the finish.



(Hey Forrest... could you back me up on this? i.e. polish only, no need for wax on a Show Car).



If you apply a pure polish often, then you don't need to apply wax. For the most part this is true. But for most of us who use are cars as daily drivers, and... don't have the time to polish often... wax extends the amount of time between polishing by acting as a sacrificial-barrier coating. As this sacrificial barrier coating wears away, then you can re-apply either polish, or re-apply wax, or both.



Your aesthetic choice.



Two more comments on the topic of Layering,



1) I have tried applying multiple layers after time has gone by, (sometimes an hour, sometimes a day), and I see no difference or increase in results after two thin coats. Actually, I would say it's really hard to see any difference after one well applied coat but, in my head, I know I think I've done my best work by applying two thin coats.



You know, typical Joe Six-pack frame of mind,



"If a little is good, then more must be better?



2) My other thoughts on the theory of "Layering" as the word/term is used by serious enthusiasts on detailing discussion forums, can be read here.



Mike, care to comment on the debate over putting 20 over 7?



Because some of what I wrote in this thread may rile up some feathers, I will not post my responses in this thread here on Autopia.



But, if you're interested, you can click over there and read it yourself.



Mike



p.s.

What’s that Beatles lyric from the Revolver Album…. My fingers are bleeding….
 
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