Not Happy With Result

C

cjbigcog

New member
Just finished my first car today using my pc.The car is an '88 red Benz.The trunk lid had some oxidation.

Here's what I did:

Wash

IP with orange pad

FP2 white pad

Prime Strong

AJ two coats



In the shade it looks great....good deep color and lots of shine.

However, in the sun (if iI get the right angle)the paint looks dull. Can this be corrected, or is it just a case of dealing with old paint.
 
If the paint looks dull, there is probably still some oxidation left. Your best bet would be to run the IP and FPII until the finish is crystal clear, and then, apply the lsp.



Greg
 
To clarify...the trunk lid (in the sun) looks pretty good...nice and glossy. It's only when I get that certain angle of the sun does it look kind of dull.
 
That could be. As I mentioned, this is my first use of a pc along with the Menz. products. I was misting the pad and surface with water to keep it damp. If the polish is too moist, will that prevent it from breaking down?
 
cjbigcog said:
That could be. As I mentioned, this is my first use of a pc along with the Menz. products. I was misting the pad and surface with water to keep it damp. If the polish is too moist, will that prevent it from breaking down?
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You are correct. Applying anything to moist the pads will decrease the abrasiveness. Try it again without use the moisten pads. Also, move your PC around 1" per second if not slower.



Apply a circle of product around the outer edge of the pad to PRIME the pad and then after that a nickel to dime size will sufficient for 2"x2" area I would say.
 
stiffdogg06 said:
You are correct. Applying anything to moist the pads will decrease the abrasiveness. Try it again without use the moisten pads. Also, move your PC around 1" per second if not slower.



Apply a circle of product around the outer edge of the pad to PRIME the pad and then after that a nickel to dime size will sufficient for 2"x2" area I would say.
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Sound advice!
 
Meguiars is your friend when it comes to oxidized single stage paint. #83 and #80 work wonders. I always go back to Meguiars when working single stage paints.
 
Hey sorry to bring this up here.



I see you like to you Meguiars for Single Stage Scott.



What Meguiar products would you recommend to get? I use a Makita so i don't know if you would recommend different products from PC to a rotary. What compounds, polishes, paint cleaners, LSP do you like to use on SS?



Thanks for the help!



- Andrew
 
Scottwax said:
Meguiars is your friend when it comes to oxidized single stage paint. #83 and #80 work wonders. I always go back to Meguiars when working single stage paints.
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Yeah, on ss red it'd be my choice too.



stiffdogg06- Given that your rotary skills are up to final polishing with it (sounds like that's not a problem :D ), #83 or #2 for correction, #9 or #81 for final polishing. A "pure polish" (#3/#5/#7/#81) if you want a glaze. I'd probably go with their #26 for an LSP unless you have some #16 lying around but any good carnauba would be OK (Souveran, etc.). SS just seems happiest with carnaubas instead of sealants IME.



The only true paint cleaner I like on SS is Pinnacle's PCL, but I have the older version, not sure what I'd recommend you try. Some people really like KAIO for this, but it's not my preference; I'd rather use AutoGlym's SRP for something one-step like that.
 
Accumulator said:
Yeah, on ss red it'd be my choice too.



stiffdogg06- Given that your rotary skills are up to final polishing with it (sounds like that's not a problem :D ), #83 or #2 for correction, #9 or #81 for final polishing. A "pure polish" (#3/#5/#7/#81) if you want a glaze. I'd probably go with their #26 for an LSP unless you have some #16 lying around but any good carnauba would be OK (Souveran, etc.). SS just seems happiest with carnaubas instead of sealants IME.



The only true paint cleaner I like on SS is Pinnacle's PCL, but I have the older version, not sure what I'd recommend you try. Some people really like KAIO for this, but it's not my preference; I'd rather use AutoGlym's SRP for something one-step like that.
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Is that a compliment? :secret



If so, thank you!



Also, thank you very much for the help on Meguiars stages!:chuckle:
 
I know just what you are talking about. It is oxidation that is not 100% removed.



I did one semi-truck with 500,000 miles and 9 years worth of oxidation (on SS red), and after one pass of OP and KAIO mixed on a cutting pad, the paint looked a ton better. Until I saw it in the sun, it still had a hazy and dull look to it. So I went over it again and it looked very noticably deeper and no longer had a dull look.



Also, I think 'nubas are more suited to SS paints than sealants, but that's JMO.
 
Thanks to everyone for the input. Also...I was using 6.5" ccs pads....I'm thinking that a smaller dia pad might be the way to go.
 
cjbigcog said:
Thanks to everyone for the input. Also...I was using 6.5" ccs pads....I'm thinking that a smaller dia pad might be the way to go.
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I don't think pad size is the problem. I think you will get the best results using Meguiars 80 series polishes, which were developed (expect for #80) when there were still a lot of single stage paint jobs on new cars. The polishing oils really make a difference on oxidized paint.
 
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