Noob - Need some advice

D

dtraylor

New member
Hello everyone,



I have done some searching on the EO scratch remover, and I couldnt find some of the information I was after. I was wondering how it compares to Meguiars #9? I need to buy a type of SMR since I have the typical very fine swirls, and they're more on the hood than anywhere else. I only have a couple scratches that I can actually feel with my fingernail. Which product would I probably be better off with? I'm thinking #9. Can the EO be applied to the entire vehicle or just in small areas?



Thanks for any help :up



Grant

(((BUMP)))
 
I recently used #9 2.0 for the first time. Did a great job one the very minor swirling I had. You can follow up with your fav wax or sealant. No experience with the EO so can’t comment on that but the #9 won’t take out anything you can feel, it’s very mild stuff.







SJS
 
#9 won't help you with any scratch you can feel. Meguiar's has another product called "Scratch-X" - comes in a tube - that is much better for spot-work. Put a little on a foam pad, use one finger, press and rub in the direction of the scratch.
 
puterbum is correct; EO Scratch Remover is a <strong class='bbc'>very[/b] abrasive rubbing compound suited for deep scratches, not swirl marks! Use it on small sections only, and follow-up with a milder polish such as Meguiars #9. Be sure to try out the newer #9 2.0 version!


Good luck...
~bw
 
I Just purchased this Civic a couple weeks ago. The body is in really good shape, except the paint has been neglected. I'm attaching at picture... This is the top of the car, its by FAR the worst of it all. Most of the car just seems to be oxidized. Clear coat even seems to be decent.

Now, I'm no professional detailer, I more on the mechanical side. I just need some advice on how to bring this thing back to life. I believe it has a good base under there some where.

Compound? Polish? Help me out guys.

IMG_1033.jpg


Thanks in Advance!
 
First, let me be the first to welcome you to TID.

Now, tell us what you have to work with. Are you planning on using a DA polisher, a rotary, or god forbid, by hand? You are clearly going to need to compound the paint and then polish it to get a nice smooth, swirl free finish. Just from looking at this picture, I would think that you would need a wool pad and heavy cutting compound, and then use a finishing polish (at a minimum), and a foam pad to refine the finish and bring back the gloss. You might need a third step, depending on the results you are seeking.
 
Dude, Super thanks for the quick reply. I have a Cheap rotary polisher (variable speed). Also, I'd need some products that can be picked up at the local parts store.

Meguiars Ultimate Compound?

Keep in mind that I'm not exactly used to this kind of work, so something that would keep me from burning what I have left.
 
If you are looking for a good over the counter product, then yes Meg's Ultimate Compound should work fine. As for the pads, call Angelo at PAC, and he will set you up with all the right pads and products. If you have never used a rotary before, I am not sure I would try it out on my car. There is a learning curve with a rotary polisher. You don't want to burn through the paint.
 
The photo looks like the clear coat might be failing in spots. Beginning too aggressive might have unwanted results. Also looks like serious dirt and grime on/in the paint. I would recommend a good wash with a high concentration of Dawn.(A spray bottle with a 2:1 or 3:1 works well) Let it dwell a while, then agitate again before rinsing. Then clay it to see how much of that surface contamination you can remove. Then post a photo at that stage and we might have a better view of what you are dealing with.

Good luck!
 
Also you can see spots over on the left that I tried some "TR3" and some Turtle Wax Buffing and Rubbing compound. Those spots don't look too bad. Especially for 20 year old paint.
 
Keith,

Welcome to the Forum.

Your Honda looks like it may have single stage paint where the color and clear were mixed together.
The paint looks like it has been dying for awhile.
You will be getting that color off on your pads, wiping towels, etc.,..
There might not be much paint to work with, so be extra careful, go slowly, stop often to inspect the work, and see how it goes.
It might not be able to be restored to perfect again, but it can probably be improved.
If might require frequent cleaning and waxing, etc., to keep the color alive.
The Megs Ultimate Compound is a great product, very similar to Meguiars Professional 105 Compound, I believe. Its pretty aggressive, so be careful if this is all you have to work with.
Keep the paintwork cool while you are doing this, dont do it in the sun if possible. Shade is your friend.

Good Luck!
Dan F
 
Dan,
I agree the paint on the top of the car is very thin, but the rest of the car looks a lot better. So I'm thinking if I can get the top cleaned up the rest will be a breeze. I'll get it painted eventually.

I did the dawn thing the others had explained, boy you sure have to rinse the car like 5 times after spraying 3:1 dawn on it. LOL
I did manage to get some of the black off just by scrubbing. I plan on claying it and re-posting when I get the chance.

Thanks All
 
Hey there, what year is this honda? If the paint is too far gone, which it may be (you won't know until you try), repainting the roof would actually, as far as painting jobs go, not be that hard. I say this because the rain gutters make for a nice break between the roof and the rest of the paint, meaning you would have to do no blending, which is a royal PITA unless you know what you are doing. Go easy with the rotary, keep everything cool, and you should know pretty quickly whether there is anything there worth saving.
 
My buffer/polisher is 200-3300 rpm.. Whats easy? I've heard big sweeping motions to keep from burn through. Also, what pad? Wool, Yellow foam, Black foam?
 
Keithsdateg said:
My buffer/polisher is 200-3300 rpm.. Whats easy? I've heard big sweeping motions to keep from burn through. Also, what pad? Wool, Yellow foam, Black foam?
Click to expand...

You are wanting to start gentle until you have a better idea of how the paint is reacting. I would recommend starting with an orange LC pad, or even white to be safer. Yes, you want to keep the polisher moving, but you also want to test a small spot. At first I would stay below 1000 rpm for short periods and check frequently. You really will know pretty quickly whether you are improving things or making it worse. Personally, I wouldn't go straight to a rotary on this, but start with a DA.

Sorry about rinsing the Dawn. I forget that not using a pressure washer makes it more difficult. Next time try rinsing first with just open hose. The majority of the Dawn should float off rather than foam up, then use the sprayer.
 
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