No Run Plastic Protectant

Z

Z28GSXRTim

New member
Hello All-



I just bought a 2004 Chevrolet Colorado (Pics Here) and it has quite a bit of plastic trim. I am looking for something I can apply to the trim that will not run when it rains. I have used 303 in the past and am unhappy with it because it will run. Does anybody have any suggestions?
 
You could try a sealant. I usually use FMJ on large plastic pieces. I've heard AIO also works very well.
 
I've had the same issue with the fender flares on my Tacoma. I've tried at least 10 different products trying to find what works best for me.



So far, the best two I've used are the Hi-Temp Molding & Bumper Renewer from Top Of The Line and the 1Z Vinyl & Rubber Care.



Out of those two, I'd probably lean more towards the Hi-Temp product. I've only used it twice so far, but it has been great both times in terms of durability and looks. The 1Z product looks great, but doesn't seem to last as long.
 
The 1Z TP mentioned above works good. I haven't had any durability issues with it to date. I recently tried Poorboy's Trim Restorer and like the look however I cannot comment on durability or streaking yet.
 
Regardless of what you use,, make sure you buff the trim afterwards with a clean dry towel to remove the excess product - that'll minimize the streaking.
 
forrest said:
Regardless of what you use,, make sure you buff the trim afterwards with a clean dry towel to remove the excess product - that'll minimize the streaking.
Click to expand...



Yes, yes, yes... Forrest is right!



I occasionally get comments back about a vinyl/plastic/rubber protectant running or not lasting long (water based product). Most of the problems have to do with improper usage of the product, not the product capability.



Many (if not most) modern protectants contain polymers. These polymers can only do their job when properly applied (just like paint sealants). Proper application of a water-based protectant is as follows:



1. Apply to a clean surface.



2. Use a foam (or microfiber) applicator. Wet the applicator and apply protectant to the surface until good and wet. The surface must get wet!



3. Allow time for the protectant to penetrate and the water to evaporate. The water must evaporate for the polymers to crosslink and do their job. Usually 5-10 minutes is enough.



4. Wipe off the excess with a clean, dry cloth and "burnish".



If you don't understand what I mean by burnish, I mean rub it briskly to set the finish.



If you apply water-based protectant in this manner, they will look better, last longer, and will be less likely to run and streak.



db
 
My Grand Cherokee has quite a bit of plastic trim, as well. I have tried many different dressings looking for one that would not run, would last reasonably long, and would be cost-effective considering the amounts that I would have to use over time. I have tried liquids (including Meguiars NXT & #40, ArmorAll, Mother's Back to Black, Eagle One Wet), gels (including Meguiar's #38, Endurance and Trim Shine gels, and Turtle Wax Tire gel), and sprays/foams (including Stoners Trim Shine, Meguiar's Dash Foam, Meguiar's tire foams, ArmorAll Detailers' Advantage foam, and various others). I have not tried the more boutique products mentioned above.



My finding has been that Stoners spray and the various foams seem to be the most durable, the easiest to use, and the most cost effective. The process described by David is excellent advice and I personally follow it. That said, I have also found that the foams are much more forgiving than the gels or liquids which are more likely to run if you miss a spot in the final wipedown or buff. The foams and Stoners spray seem much easier to spread thinly and evenly in the initial application, making the thoroughness of the final buff less crucial.
 
If I'm not mistaken, the Stoner aerosol protectants are oil (petrol) based. If we have a Stoner rep onboard, maybe they can talk to us about their product. John... are you out there?
 
With the Klasse and now, I see, FMJ, none of these running and durabilty issues, just seal like you do the paint, plastic's protected.
 
DavidB said:
Yes, yes, yes... Forrest is right!



I occasionally get comments back about a vinyl/plastic/rubber protectant running or not lasting long (water based product). Most of the problems have to do with improper usage of the product, not the product capability.



Many (if not most) modern protectants contain polymers. These polymers can only do their job when properly applied (just like paint sealants). Proper application of a water-based protectant is as follows:



1. Apply to a clean surface.



2. Use a foam (or microfiber) applicator. Wet the applicator and apply protectant to the surface until good and wet. The surface must get wet!



3. Allow time for the protectant to penetrate and the water to evaporate. The water must evaporate for the polymers to crosslink and do their job. Usually 5-10 minutes is enough.



4. Wipe off the excess with a clean, dry cloth and "burnish".



If you don't understand what I mean by burnish, I mean rub it briskly to set the finish.



If you apply water-based protectant in this manner, they will look better, last longer, and will be less likely to run and streak.



db
Click to expand...



Thanks to all of those that replied. Using David's process as described above- will this work with 303 the same? I have so much of that that I'd hate to waste any.



I will try the 303 with David's process and see how it goes. I just want to protect the trim from becoming dry and faded over time and trying to figure out which is the best product to restore it ;) .
 
There's a new product made just for those plastic panels on the Avalanche, Element, Jeep Liberty, etc.



I have used it on 2 Elements and an avalanche. After washing the vehicle you apply this product like a regular dressing. However, it is acrylic and it will actually dry on the plastic. It takes about 5 minutes to dry. It doesn't leave the plastic super shiney, just like new. It has been on one of the Elements for 7 months and still looks good. I applied it on the other 2 vehicles about 2 months ago. They also still look good.



The only draw back is that if you have used silicone on the surface (like 303 or other dressings) you have the wash the panels with a pre-cleaner to remove the silicone. Otherwise, when you apply the acrylic product it won't stick.



The product is from Mark V in Southern California. It's called Plastic Protector. The pre-cleaner they recommend is their Extreme.
 
Demon Detailer said:


I have used it on 2 Elements and an avalanche. After washing the vehicle you apply this product like a regular dressing. However, it is acrylic and it will actually dry on the plastic. It takes about 5 minutes to dry. It doesn't leave the plastic super shiney, just like new. It has been on one of the Elements for 7 months and still looks good. I applied it on the other 2 vehicles about 2 months ago. They also still look good.
Click to expand...



That's the idea behind using the Klasse twins. Acrylic is the key here.
 
Z28GSXRTim said:
Thanks to all of those that replied. Using David's process as described above- will this work with 303 the same? I have so much of that that I'd hate to waste any.



I will try the 303 with David's process and see how it goes. I just want to protect the trim from becoming dry and faded over time and trying to figure out which is the best product to restore it ;) .
Click to expand...



Yes it will work with 303. I use a few foam paint brushs to apply the 303, I spray into the brush and continue to apply. It reduces overspray and works well. The brushes are the cheap multi-pack from the dollar store.
 
Demon Detailer said:
The product is from Mark V in Southern California. It's called Plastic Protector. The pre-cleaner they recommend is their Extreme.
Click to expand...

I thought you were going to mention Armordillo. Do have a link or more info on the Mark V product?



Does anyone know if the plastic on the Colorado is the same type used on the Avalanche?



Eric
 
Demon Detailer said:




The only draw back is that if you have used silicone on the surface (like 303 or other dressings) you have the wash the panels with a pre-cleaner to remove the silicone. Otherwise, when you apply the acrylic product it won't stick.



The product is from Mark V in Southern California. It's called Plastic Protector. The pre-cleaner they recommend is their Extreme.
Click to expand...

I don't think 303 contains silicone. This is from their web site:



Developed for aerospace and aviation applications, 303 is the world's most effective UV screening product. Unlike other "protectant" products, 303 does not contain silicone oils, waxes, glycerin or petroleum distillates. 303 leaves a like-new, non-oily, anti-static finish that does not attract

dust. Treated stay cleaner longer, reducing maintenance.



Try it on your TV screen and see how long it remains dust free. :up
 
I'm a HUGE 303 fan but again, for exterior, hard plastic trim, the Klasse twins sure seem to be ultimate solution for me.
 
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