Nitro Removal Question

J

jw

New member
I put Nitro on and let it dry for over an hour. When I tried to remove it it was still somewhat greasy. I decided it must need more time to dry, so i gave it another 2 hours. I just tried it again and comes off pretty easy but i still see smears underneath. Maybe I used too much of the "A"? What should I do, should I give it more time to dry or remove it and leave the smears and see what happens tomorrow? FYI, it's around 50 degrees in my garage.
 
Can anyone offer any help on this? I tried removing it again but there you can still see splotches of where the product still is?
 
JW,



You have used to much part A, if you can leave it for a couple more hours or even over night it should remove with out issue. However in saying that I would not be concerned about it being a little greasy or leaving smears. You will be able to wipe the product off and then follow with a clean towel and buff off any smears or residule.



Daniel
 
Yeah, sounds like too much of part A.



Remember, a little bit of 'A' goes a loooong way. You *can* use too little sometimes so err on the side of too much. It won't harm the end result.



However, 50 F is 10 C, pretty cold! Let it sit overnight and pull it out into the sun if you have any. That temp is a bit cold for most LSP working properly.
 
Tried again this morning, the hazing or whatever it is still there no matter how much I wipe. Should I do the whole process over again?
 
I had a problem with HD Nitro over the weekend. I let it dry for over 3 hours and there was still hazing left. I then tried again this morning and couldn't removing the hazing or whatever you want to call it. What should I do, should I reapply both steps? I sent HD and email, we'll see if they respond.
 
I didn't try a qd, the directions say not to expose it to any water? Is this something I should try?
 
jw said:
I didn't try a qd, the directions say not to expose it to any water? Is this something I should try?
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There's a lot of guys who have had issues with other types of waxes and such once in a while and using a QD can help. You don't have to expose it to water... using just an OTC Meg's QD might do the trick... it does have some cleaning properties to it, but that's what i've always heard when it came to people having issues with stubborn waxes/sealants.
 
If you check, you will find that almost all QD's have a high water content.

They also have some IPA (rubbing alcohol) in them.

The IPA is what aids in the resolution of the concern, as it is a "drying agent".

The use of a percentage of IPA in a QD allows it to clean and make the water in the product evaporate quicker.

However, the water in the product does stop the crosslinking of an polymer based sealant if allowed.

Several things may affect the "curing", temperature, humidity in the air, skin temperature of the paint system, was it applied immediately after washing (modern paint systems will absorb up to a pint of water when the vehicle is washed, and must be allowed to evaporate before applying a polymer based sealant).

Then there is the question of what, if any polish, etc was applied to the paint before the application?

If the polish, etc contained a percentage of waxes/silicones/siloxanes of certain molecular chains, they will not allow the sealant to bond or completely cure, etc.

If you used the HD polish, if you polished, there should not be this concern, due to it's chemistry of components.

Other's, ???? who knows.

One other issue is the "conditon" of the paint surface, if any "oxidation" is still present, then there may be a curing process concern.

If an older single stage or older clear system, that may also contribute to the concern.
 
Like I mentioned in my first post, I may have used too much of the A. Tonight, I tried two things. I didn one panel with the A and the B and then I tried another panel with just the B. They both did the same thing. I also tried using a qd to remove some of the hazing but you can still see it. My car is a black 911, any suggestions.
 
Have you tried simply washing it? The NS should be ok to wash by now.



Sometimes streaking come off after washing as the detergent removes the excess oils/stuff off the surface.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
(modern paint systems will absorb up to a pint of water when the vehicle is washed, and must be allowed to evaporate before applying a polymer based sealant).
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That's fascinating! How does that work?
 
jw said:
Like I mentioned in my first post, I may have used too much of the A. Tonight, I tried two things. I didn one panel with the A and the B and then I tried another panel with just the B. They both did the same thing. I also tried using a qd to remove some of the hazing but you can still see it. My car is a black 911, any suggestions.
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JW, PM Sent.
 
I tried using a qd on this and it slightly helped but you can still see the hazing underneath. I'm really disappointed in this product. A complete waste of $60.
 
jw said:
I tried using a qd on this and it slightly helped but you can still see the hazing underneath. I'm really disappointed in this product. A complete waste of $60.
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Sorry that you're disappointed, but unfortunately when excessive product (i.e. sealants) is applied, you *can* experience problems. That is pretty normal, especially on a black car where this can be magnified. I wanted to find out out much you applied so I could determine if the problem was user or product based. You're typically able to treat 3-4 cars with a bottle of Nitro Seal. How much did you have left in each bottle after you did your car?



If you did apply too much, then I would rewash the car (or a section of it) and see if this clears up the issue. Add just a touch (cap full) of APC to your bucket. Once dry, try applying it again, but very lightly so you are applying a very thin film over the finish. Make sure NOT to mix up applicators. Use 1 for part A and the other for part B. Please let us know if this helps. I wouldn't use QD either. They are made to gloss up your finish and am not surprise it isn't correcting it. In this case you need to knock things down, not build them up like how a QD tends to do.



From the looks, Ben is also trying to rectify this for you too. 3D stands behind their products so please don't think this is getting swept under the rug.
 
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