Nice article on rotary buffing

Poorboy said:
no not from the handle..from the base of the motor...:nono
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:dunno It must be the angle of the camera. Looking at the base of the motor, it does look like 1/4" difference. When I was taking the picture, I used the handle as the leverage point and there was only 1/8" difference. The pads have varying diameters. Not sure if that would affect the angles?
 
your first pictire of a backing plate and the adapter really says it all...i really don't think that small amount of space will really cause any difference in vibration, but the test of time and uses will tell us all:dunno
 
Poorboy said:
your first pictire of a backing plate and the adapter really says it all...i really don't think that small amount of space will really cause any difference in vibration, but the test of time and uses will tell us all:dunno
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Okay. Now I know I'm :crazy, because it's after midnight and I'm standing out in my garage taking pictures of buffing pads. :rolleyes:

I don't know why I didn't think of this in the first place, but here is a set of pictures using just the pads and mounting devices (sans the buffer itself). The assemblies are resting flush on the surface of the table.

Here is the E2K setup (in blue) compared with the LC 7.5" Advanced pad setup (in white) -
 
Oh Boy! I knew that post would start people thinking..

Anyway, it seems the adapter is threaded deep into its socket so it can receive the 5/8 shaft. That said, it seems to keep the pad close to the same distance of a backing plate. This would keep vibration at the same level. Also, seeing the pad is ALWAYS centered, less chance of off-balance vibration as opposed to pad/backing plate combo.

Great idea on the quick disconnect. :bigups

However, if it was as accepted, say as a ratchet wrench or impact wrench with the disconnect, why hasn't rotary mfg start making the shafts with this same type of quick disconnect? Sounds like The Edge could stand to make a ton on money licensing the pad rights as well.

And no I have not tried it. Maybe one day I may. I'll have to P/U an adapter and pad combo and give it a "whirl".

Regards,
Deanski
 
Poorboy said:
Second obsevation is that if you hold something up with your finger(like the qc) or hold the same thing up with your whole hand(backing plate), which one would be steadier?
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LOL, I think you are supposed to screw them onto a buffer.
 
What needs to be said is that when the adapter is snapped into the center of a pad it is just about the same as when a backing plate sits on the back of a pad. There also would not be anymore vibration with the adapter in fact there would be much less because it is perfectly centered without any effort. You cannot perfectly center a Velcro backing plate without a lot of trial and error or some measuring equipment. Also we are not the only company or the only pad that suggests buffing flat. The industry leader in buffing 3M even states on their packaging to buff almost FLAT and provides an illustration depicting so which I have attached here. Buffing flat prevents swirls and burning. Our pads have plenty of flex even more so than any standard Velcro backing plate which is quite hard and rigid. Our E2K pads bend and contour around the car. Additionally, when the adapter is snapped firmly into the pad it’s just as secure and steady as a backing plate since there basically is a backing plate inside the pad. Finally, if a rotary manufacturer approached us and was interested in our system we would of course jump at the chance but alas that has not happened because a new and revolutionary system like this needs to be accepted by the public before any big name company would take the risk and as you can see its hard to convince people to change. In the meantime the adapter is FREE from premiumautocare.com and changeover takes all of 3 seconds. Oh and GREAT PICS as usual Marj now go to sleep and stop dreaming and counting buffing pads!
 
Deanski said:

And no I have not tried it. Maybe one day I may. I'll have to P/U an adapter and pad combo and give it a "whirl".

Regards,
Deanski
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Deanski,

you missed your chance to pick one up in person, the Meguiars seminar at Pal Automotive in Piscataway, NJ was a blast :cool
 
you missed your chance to pick one up in person, the Meguiars seminar at Pal Automotive in Piscataway, NJ was a blast
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Story of my life! :-p Missed the nice towels from Dwayne as well.

One day I'll have to order some of the Edge Pads both rotary and PC.

Glad to hear you had a good time!

Regards,
Deanski
 
Steve,
You really seem to be stuck on this point. I did not contradict myself, I was clearly pointing out that we are not the only ones who recommend buffing flat. The picture does not have a graphic of an true angle measurement in fact the pic that says right shows almost no angle I don't know how you measured 15 degrees?. But since you are sure that we are wrong and that only our pads should be used flat I also add the Meguiars videos to this discussion and quote from the "removing defects by machine" clip on http://www.bettercarcare.com/articles.php?articleId=31 which very clearly states "KEEP THE BUFFING PAD FLAT TO THE SURFACE AT ALL TIMES".
 
I think the problem with the 3M package as an example is that it says "almost flat"---what does that mean???

PB interperates their almost flat as a slight angle is ok, 15 degrees or whatever. Edge interperates almost flat as flat.

:dunno
 
I think you are both correct ...
I have used a buffer for 30 plus years and this is what works for me.
When using most wool pads (I haven't used Edge Wool yet) they are domed as indicated in Marj's picture. If this pad was held flat, you would only be buffing with the center which is about 3 or 4 inches in diameter. So for me keeping the pad as flat as possible and having it produce the results I am looking for usually means tilting it 5 to 10 degrees.
When using foam pads (Meguiars and Edge) I have found that I get better results when holding the pad flat. That said, Meguiars pads seem to have a slight dome to them, so if I am doing a final pass with very light pressure, I need to once again tilt the pad ever so slightly so it will make proper contact.
One more thought ... some polishes and some paints cause the buffer to hop, especially with foam. When this happens a quick cure is to tilt the pad slightly.

I can see both sides ... Just my opinion
 
It was a matter of opinion. No reason to delete posts based on that concept. You've used a buffer for longer than some members have been alive. I think you qualify and knowing how to buff. :)
 
:yeah

My learning style is to try different methods until I find the one that works for me. It gives a person the confidence to try something if they know there is more than one way to achieve success
Just an opinion (mine)
 
Sorry guys, I've been a bit too sarcastic and testy due to some personal matters and let it flow into discussions...better that someone like you(Kimwallace) or Boss ...who have tons of experiece give your advice:)
 
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