Newbie Product/Process Critique

PointyStick

New member
Just looking some thoughts on my products and process for doing some paint correction on my cars;





Step 1: Wash

  • Wash car using Dish washing Soap (my case sunlight, as cant find Dawn)
  • Dry

Step 2: Clay

  • Clay - Mequiar's Smooth Surface Clay
  • Lube - Mequiar's Quik Detailer - Mist and Wipe
  • Repeat Step 1: Wash

Step 3A: Polish

  • Tape
  • Menzerna Power Finish PO203S with Orange Pad
  • IPA (1:1 mix) wipe down
  • Menzerna Final Polish PO85RD with White Pad
  • IPA (1:1 mix) wipe down



OR



Step 3B: Polish

  • Tape
  • Menzerna Power Finish PO203S with Orange Pad
  • IPA (1:1 mix) wipe down
  • Menzerna Power Finish PO203S with White Pad
  • IPA (1:1 mix) wipe down
  • Menzerna Final Polish PO85RD with Black Pad
  • IPA (1:1 mix) wipe down



Step 4: Sealant

  • Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant with Blue Pad
  • Remove by Hand
 
I really feel that you don't need to re-wash after you clay if you use enough lube. Wash it down with a heavy dilution of soap or foam gun+power wash when you are done with the polishing to get all the polishing dust out of the cracks.
 
I think you should find a better wash soap. Dawn works well for removing waxes and such if needed, but I would at least do the rewash after clay with a Megs GC or something along that line.
 
Double Dizzle said:
I think you should find a better wash soap. Dawn works well for removing waxes and such if needed, but I would at least do the rewash after clay with a Megs GC or something along that line.



+1. A real wash soap will help cling and rinse the dirt free of the paint. May not be TOTALLY necessary, but it's always nice to have.



Washing and claying steps look fine. Should have no troubles at all.



I'd use a hybrid of Step 3A and Step 3B. An orange power pad/white pad with PO203 can polish and finish down nicely enough to go straight to PO85RD with a black pad (For that extra "pop" in your paint, if you really feel it's necessary). If for some reason it does not, PO85RD on a white pad will work just as nicely as a finishing polish with a little extra cut.



Report back on the Power Lock, still considering some of it myself :LOLOL
 
dmw2692004 said:
I really feel that you don't need to re-wash after you clay if you use enough lube. Wash it down with a heavy dilution of soap or foam gun+power wash when you are done with the polishing to get all the polishing dust out of the cracks.



Thinking some more on this, washing/drying/IPA wipe-down after polish to ensure the paint is really clean for the sealant would probably be a better use of time then washing after claying.



Double Dizzle said:
I think you should find a better wash soap. Dawn works well for removing waxes and such if needed, but I would at least do the rewash after clay with a Megs GC or something along that line.



I do use Megs GC for my typical washes. From what I have read it seems to be a good idea to ensure the paint is completely stripped of everything before applying a sealant, which is why the Dawn.



Rtom said:
Report back on the Power Lock, still considering some of it myself :LOLOL



Will do, used some already on the front panel of my dark green xterra and looks good and feels really smooth (which seems to be a typical experience from the reviews I have read). I guess durability is the unknown right now.



I will be doing a older black Jetta next week and will post results.



I used Zanio before, it worked well in the dark green xterra (looked good and smooth), but on my white 323 I didnt like the look nor did it leave the paint feeling smooth, so I thought to give the Power Lock a try.
 
PointyStick said:
I do use Megs GC for my typical washes. From what I have read it seems to be a good idea to ensure the paint is completely stripped of everything before applying a sealant, which is why the Dawn.



If you're going to be claying/polishing, chances are that you are going to be removing whatever protection is already on the paint, I would just stick a megs GC wash.
 
Any thoughts on if I should add a paint cleaner step after polishing step/before sealant?



For a washing soap any reviews on AutoGlym Bodywork Shampoo & Conditioner?
 
PointyStick said:
For a washing soap any reviews on AutoGlym Bodywork Shampoo & Conditioner?



I *really* like its lubricity and encapsulation, and it cleans well too.



BUT...I found it surprisingly harsh on LSPs. So much so that I quit using it basically over that. Until I got on my Griot's Car Wash kick, the Pinnacle was my "good vehicle" shampoo (due to its harshness, I'd already switched from it to Meg's #62 on the daily drivers).



If you want a *great* shampoo, I'd go with the Griot's (simply all I use now), or the Optimum (regular shampoo, not their ONR), or DuraGloss. Those are all a lot cheaper than the Pinnacle too.
 
Accumulator said:
If you want a *great* shampoo, I'd go with the Griot's (simply all I use now), or the Optimum (regular shampoo, not their ONR), or DuraGloss. Those are all a lot cheaper than the Pinnacle too.



Just bought Optimum Car Wash from eShine....seems to be well loved around here
 
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