Newbie needs help please with paint issues!

bryansbestwax said:
i have applied the so called sealant at dealerships, looks and durability aree generally aweful. There are many products out there that are much better. I tell everyone to buypass the paint and fabric protection and do it yourself of find a good detailer that can.



Bryan, don't you get me going on this sealant! Whatever the heck they put on this car, I have to tell you that I just love it! I have never seen a product on a new car that shines like glass and doesn't need frequent waxing like my other car (Sebring) does...even my neighbour's new cars don't shine anything like this, and that shine on my EVO continues after every washing...today is like the first day I bought this car. My bicepts thank whatever the product is that they applied. I'm going to find out their secret formula...and I think have ways to make them talk! I'm wondering if they aren't using some formulation similar to the one that has been recently talked about on this autopia site?
 
I was looking over the clay bar information which led me to a thread talking about recommendations for removing contaminants. One guy was saying that claying does not remove anything below the surface. He goes on to say that the contaminants that are below the surface even after claying continue to damage the paint. He says that only what has been touched by the clay on the surface would be removed.



He says in service manuals from Ford, etc, that they suggest using a chemical process, and to back up what he says, he produces an old service manual, but then says in a later responce that this information is in many of the new service manuals today...what do you all think about this information?



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He says that most paint contamination issues can be corrected with products designed to relieve, remove and neutralize the contaminants without reducing the thickness of the clear coat. The manual he produces from Ford actually says that clay bar is not the recommended fix, and the manual actually does mention the following products to use instead...



"Fallout Remover" for industrial contamination- ex. jet fuel residue, iron/sulpher contaminents, smog contamiments



"Denatured Alcohol" for removing petroleum based contaminents, wax, etc.
 
gtpaul said:
DO the spots look rust coloured? If not, it is highly unlikely that it is industrial fall-out or rail-dust.



Don't think so, or at least I hope not...the paint has actual gold in it, so there are flecks of this gold color everywhere throughout the "phantom black" upgraded paint.
 
LuxeAutoLounge said:
Hey Coryl!!! :)



BTW - I'm also a first time poster on here everyone!! - one of my friends 'GTPaul' is also on this forum.. he has seen our store and some of our work.. and we have also seen the work HE has done on vehicles... simply stunning!!



As discussed, a thorough wash and clay bar treatment, follwed by a coat of Meguiar's #26 Hi-Tech Yellow wax or #21 Synthetic Sealant is all that is really required in this case. Since the vehicle only has 1500km on it and is free from any swirls or defects (based on my last inspection...), I am hesitant to side with the recommendation by the other shop in terms of using a heavy cutting compound on the paint. It is simply not necessary as there are no paint defects - just minor surface contamination which is easily corrected with a clay bar session. As they say, the object of the game is to correct the paint while using the least aggressive method as to preserve the clear coat.



I look forward to fixing the Evo for you!! :)



Welcome to Autopia! And good suggestion.



Are you from Toronto?



My friend also owns a detailing shop on the Westcoast, called Lux Autospa LLC.













Anyway, the dealer gets paid by performing warranty work in-house, or by outsourcing a repair job to other repair shops. The dealer wants you to wetsand and repaint the car through warranty because they simply get paid for it.



A friend of mine has an IS350 which had a lot of swirls instilled by the dealer washes. He complained to the dealer and the dealer had the car repainted for him under warranty. No joke. The newly painted panels now have a lot of orange peel.
 
gtpaul bring a microscope if you have one.



Rail dust might not be showing rust yet, but it should be easy to tell if it is overspray or a different contaminate.
 
coryl said:
Don't think so, or at least I hope not...the paint has actual gold in it, so there are flecks of this gold color everywhere throughout the "phantom black" upgraded paint.



I think you should consider having the entire car clayed and polished with something like PO85RD, M205, or PO106FA. After that, apply a few layers of durable wax of your choice. Hire someone you trust do do it.



It's not uncommon for brand new cars to suffer from surface contaminations. On almost every single detailing forum there are people talking about their brand new cars requiring a clay job. The wax or protectant installed by the dealer are actually worthless if the vehicle was not prepared properly. If your car feels gritty to the touch after they applied protectant to the paint, then that means they did not prepare the paint properly. You should try to get your money back from the dealer.



I clay my cars every time before I polish them, regardless of how gritty they feel to the touch. Claying with a mild clay bar doesn't remove clear coat.
 
the_invisible said:
Welcome to Autopia! And good suggestion.



Are you from Toronto?



My friend also owns a detailing shop on the Westcoast, called Lux Autospa LLC.













Anyway, the dealer gets paid by performing warranty work in-house, or by outsourcing a repair job to other repair shops. The dealer wants you to wetsand and repaint the car through warranty because they simply get paid for it.



A friend of mine has an IS350 which had a lot of swirls instilled by the dealer washes. He complained to the dealer and the dealer had the car repainted for him under warranty. No joke. The newly painted panels now have a lot of orange peel.



I have already suspected that this is why they would would want to wetsand the car...you have confirmed my suspicions. I have just sent an e-mail telling them that I will not let them wetsand it.
 
coryl said:
I have already suspected that this is why they would would want to wetsand the car...you have confirmed my suspicions. I have just sent an e-mail telling them that I will not let them wetsand it.



Good idea! Don't let the dealer wetsand it!!! Just get Luxe to clay bar the car before installing the clear film. Just make sure that they will remove any swirls or marring, if there are any, before they install the film. Defects can look very obvious underneath a clear film.



Here's a picture of what it may look like if you install a film over the swirls.

gallardo_7.jpg
 
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