Newbie needs help please with paint issues!

It sounds like both detailers you consulted are competent (famous last words!). I don't think it's going to make much difference what method/steps are taken, what's more important is the competence of the detailer (more than one way to skin a cat). Why don't you try posting a new thread, something like "Detailer Needed Ottawa Area".
 
coryl said:
Lux told me that all the car needed was a claybar.

The second detailer (who I also buy my tires from) said he wouldn't just claybar and would recommend Maguires #2 fine cut cleaner, then #9 swirl remover, then #26 hi-tech liquid wax to fix the problem.
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Well the good news is the dealer didn't have a chance to touch your car again. Be happy about that since the outcome most likely would have been disasterous.



Since your car has contaminants I like the 2nd detailers approach of using the 3 step Mequiars system. Will the 2nd detailer be claying the car before polishing? If he says "yes" then I think you may have a winner.



Make sure you receive an invoice from the detailer so you can bring it to the dealer in person with a friend(power of two) to get reimbursed.
 
Hey Coryl!!! :)



BTW - I'm also a first time poster on here everyone!! - one of my friends 'GTPaul' is also on this forum.. he has seen our store and some of our work.. and we have also seen the work HE has done on vehicles... simply stunning!!



As discussed, a thorough wash and clay bar treatment, follwed by a coat of Meguiar's #26 Hi-Tech Yellow wax or #21 Synthetic Sealant is all that is really required in this case. Since the vehicle only has 1500km on it and is free from any swirls or defects (based on my last inspection...), I am hesitant to side with the recommendation by the other shop in terms of using a heavy cutting compound on the paint. It is simply not necessary as there are no paint defects - just minor surface contamination which is easily corrected with a clay bar session. As they say, the object of the game is to correct the paint while using the least aggressive method as to preserve the clear coat.



I look forward to fixing the Evo for you!! :)
 
LuxeAutoLounge said:
Hey Coryl!!! :)



BTW - I'm also a first time poster on here everyone!! - one of my friends 'GTPaul' is also on this forum.. he has seen our store and some of our work.. and we have also seen the work HE has done on vehicles... simply stunning!!



As discussed, a thorough wash and clay bar treatment, follwed by a coat of Meguiar's #26 Hi-Tech Yellow wax or #21 Synthetic Sealant is all that is really required in this case. Since the vehicle only has 1500km on it and is free from any swirls or defects (based on my last inspection...), I am hesitant to side with the recommendation by the other shop in terms of using a heavy cutting compound on the paint. It is simply not necessary as there are no paint defects - just minor surface contamination which is easily corrected with a clay bar session. As they say, the object of the game is to correct the paint while using the least aggressive method as to preserve the clear coat.



I look forward to fixing the Evo for you!! :)
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Hi there,



I'm so concerned with the dealer and paint warranty. I sent you the responce sent to me today from the dealer that they don't think it's contamination...



"Our service manager does not agree with the contaminant theory; the light sandy finish is over spray from the factory, not from contaminants. It is too uniform all over the car and that is consistant with overspray. In all honesty, I do not have much experience in this area so I cannot provide personal comment. However, our service manager does have experience and I trust his opinion. The remedy for this problem is wetsanding not claybar. Todd is very good and the type of sandpaper used for this is extremely fine. This work is all done by hand, no power tools. I think you will be very pleased with the result."



It's crazy that they don't think the simpler methods will work such as claybar and are willing to spend much $'s on the fix which so confuses me...they even want to remove the entire clearbra and replace it. Can you clay bar 1/2 the hood and then I'll take it in to show them, or should I just get you to clay the car and then bring them the bill as suggested? I actually don't care about the extra cost if I have to foot it, it's just the warranty I worry about and Mitsu's poor paint quality.
 
Claying (grades) takes care of most overspray. Whether if can be done with out marring the paint, depends.



To wet sand this car would be the second last resort, new paint being last.



By "doing it by hand", I hope he doesn't mean compound-polish also!



I would explain that you will get the removal done some else and come back for a reapplication of their sealant and warranty, for no charge.
 
salty said:
Claying (grades) takes care of most overspray. Whether if can be done with out marring the paint, depends.



To wet sand this car would be the second last resort, new paint being last.



By "doing it by hand", I hope he doesn't mean compound-polish also!



I would explain that you will get the removal done some else and come back for a reapplication of their sealant and warranty, for no charge.
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How can claying mar a finish, and if that happens how is that fixed?
 
There are many different grades of clay. From clays that hardly remove anything, all the way up to something like Z- Bar which marrs instantly.
 
salty said:
There are many different grades of clay. From clays that hardly remove anything, all the way up to something like Z- Bar which marrs instantly.
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Ok, so it's the clay as well.

I also have a scratch on the upper part of the door frame, that the dealership did when they installed my security system. They said that this would be fixed at the same time they did the wetsanding. So now that I won't get the car wetsanded, what would be the way to have that fixed? Most of the scratch appears as if it can be buffed out (the area that is on the outside the car), but the small amount on the edge of the door has gone right through. Any suggestions on this?
 
You are going to have no luck with the dealership. They typically think they know how to deal with every issue with old methods that have been passed onto them.



The chances that the car picked up overspray at the factory is slim to none. It could have picked up plenty of contaminents during transport, or from someone being careless in the shop at the dealership.



Save yourself the headache and trust our opinions that it can be removed by simply clay-barring. If it cannot be removed with clay, it is more then likely a factory paint defect which you will have to escalate the issue to Mitsubishi's district manager.



I have fixed cars for a couple customers who have taken delivery of a new car and it has been contaminated. The dealership always puts up a fuss but when you can prove they are wrong, they give in. Get a section of the car clay-barred or do it yourself (Canadian Tire $20~ for a kit)



Here is some of my work, to prove to you that I know what I am talking about when it comes to reconditioning. Park Avenue Detailing | Ottawa, ON | Portfolio



If you want me to take a look for a second opinion I will be more then happy to.. I am located in the West-End of Ottawa. If Kyle @ Luxe says it can be fixed with clay then I would trust his opinion too.
 
Finally--an Ottawa-area Autopian...all the canucks I could think of seemed to be in Toronto! coryl, I wouldn't hesitate to let gtpaul work on your car, and if he says Luxe is ok, then they are.
 
I certainly do trust Kyle at LUX or he wouldn't have so much of my money already...he installed my clear bra, window tint, window visors and got me my Weathertech liners for the EVO, and then he did the rust proofing on the Sebring.



The concerns I have are with what I need to do with the dealership...the door scratch, paint warranty, should they be reapplying the paint sealant (and the rust proofing) afterwards, as I paid them for both of these, and how that will work with the existing clearbra already installed...can these be reapplied with it on? And I love the sealant they put on the car, whatever it is, so I don't want to lose having that on the car...finish looks the same after 20 washes without waxing. Do I get the clay bar done, and then submit the bill, or do I get 1/2 the hood done with the claybar treatment and go show them? The dealership first said the problem is a defect in the paint, then the e-mail I got from the 'middle person' says it's overspray. And because the dealer is saying things so differently from everyone else, this is where the problem lies.



I 'sort of' don't mind paying for the clay bar, but then I need to know what else I can or should have applied afterwards that the dealer should be responsible for, because I don't want to have to pay for the more expensive things twice. I already hate paying for them the first time...lol.
 
coryl said:
I certainly do trust Kyle at LUX or he wouldn't have so much of my money already...he installed my clear bra, window tint, window visors and got me my Weathertech liners for the EVO, and then he did the rust proofing on the Sebring.



The concerns I have are with what I need to do with the dealership...the door scratch, paint warranty, should they be reapplying the paint sealant (and the rust proofing) afterwards, as I paid them for both of these, and how that will work with the existing clearbra already installed...can these be reapplied with it on? And I love the sealant they put on the car, whatever it is, so I don't want to lose having that on the car...finish looks the same after 20 washes without waxing. Do I get the clay bar done, and then submit the bill, or do I get 1/2 the hood done with the claybar treatment and go show them? The dealership first said the problem is a defect in the paint, then the e-mail I got from the 'middle person' says it's overspray. And because the dealer is saying things so differently from everyone else, this is where the problem lies.



I 'sort of' don't mind paying for the clay bar, but then I need to know what else I can or should have applied afterwards that the dealer should be responsible for, because I don't want to have to pay for the more expensive things twice. I already hate paying for them the first time...lol.
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First off: The sealant they applied is nothing more then your average over the counter sealant we can buy at Canadian Tire. It is unfortunate that they charge hundred's of dollars for that but that's how they increase their profit when they sell you a vehicle. Secondly, the dealership isn't willing to do anything for you. You will need to clay-bar half your hood - prove that it can be removed - and then bring this up with the dealership and have them finish the work.



We are all giving you the same suggestions now it's upto you to take our advice and prove the dealership wrong and sav yourself the trouble of questioning whats going on.



Get half the hood done, it will take 5 minutes. Goto the dealership and talk to the manager and say look: "It is removable, this is how the car should have been delivered to me", If they decide to not budge, start calling Mitsubishi Customer Care and complain, over and over.



There isn't much else to say until you get a test spot done. I will do it for you for free if you drive to Nepean.
 
That's very convenient for me, as it looks like I'm just a few minutes away from you as I also live in Nepean (Centerpointe).

Ok, I thank you and will take you up on your offer. And although you believe that the dealership won't pay out, I still really don't want them to do anything other than pay out. :bat. I'm still hurting from the scratch they put in my car door, the lousy car prep, and the $204.52 oil and filter change last week...they explained this one by saying, "you know you have a racing engine in that car?"...and that's only a few things of the things that they have done to upset me, and the tally keeps growing.
 
coryl said:
That's very convenient for me, as it looks like I'm just a few minutes away from you as I also live in Nepean (Centerpointe).

Ok, I thank you and will take you up on your offer. And although you believe that the dealership won't pay out, I still really don't want them to do anything other than pay out. :bat. I'm still hurting from the scratch they put in my car door, the lousy car prep, and the $204.52 oil and filter change last week...they explained this one by saying, "you know you have a racing engine in that car?"...and that's only a few things of the things that they have done to upset me, and the tally keeps growing.
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The only option you have is to prove that the dealership is wrong regarding this situation. That the contaminants can be removed, you have someone qualified to remove them, and that you do not trust the dealership to do the work. If you are not upfront and dead serious with them they will push you aside because the last thing they want to do is pay out. You need to express that you do not feel that they are qualified to d the work based on their assumption that it needs to be wetsanded, and that you have opinions from professional detailers in the city that know what they are talking about



PM me what evenings you are free this week, as it should be mild all week and we will put some closure to what is going on.
 
coryl said:
and the $204.52 oil and filter change last week...they explained this one by saying, "you know you have a racing engine in that car?"...and that's only a few things of the things that they have done to upset me, and the tally keeps growing.
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:spit::shocked



If they can see that they can keep getting over on you like that, they WILL! I just went through something similar with a friend of mine that I referred to a shop to get her car fixed. I had a good experience with them before, so hey. Yea...oops! It turned into a nightmare until I stepped in. They'd of cleaned her wallet out.



Listen to what the guys in your area (and here, of course) are telling you. Autopia is one of the best, if not the best place for stuff like this.
 
i have applied the so called sealant at dealerships, looks and durability aree generally aweful. There are many products out there that are much better. I tell everyone to buypass the paint and fabric protection and do it yourself of find a good detailer that can.
 
SoCalB6 said:
:spit::shocked



If they can see that they can keep getting over on you like that, they WILL! I just went through something similar with a friend of mine that I referred to a shop to get her car fixed. I had a good experience with them before, so hey. Yea...oops! It turned into a nightmare until I stepped in. They'd of cleaned her wallet out.



Listen to what the guys in your area (and here, of course) are telling you. Autopia is one of the best, if not the best place for stuff like this.
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It's so unfortunate that these kinds of things happen...whatever happened to pride in workmanship and decency and fairness? If they can make you afraid (re: under warranty), so that you feel you have to go see them, then they can charge you whatever they want.

And yes, I have learned so much here on Autopia...it's been great and I thank you all. :thx
 
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