"Newbie" needing help with a Black GTI.

J

jink

New member
I joined this forum a while ago to gather information about detailing. Over the past 3 years I have told myself that I would buy a buffer and start the actual detailing process I have enjoyed reading on these forums.



Most of the users on this forum are very knowledgeable, and I hope to gain some of that knowledge with some of the problems I am facing.



I have owned my Black GTI for a few years now. The paint wasn't in great condition when I purchased it. I had a local detailer work on the paint, but instead received massive swirl marks and halos. After repeated 'corrections' from the detailer the paint wasn't ever fixed and the problems persisted. I gave up until I purchased a buffer. My regular cleaning regimen was a combination of:



  • Washing
  • Clay Baring
  • Waxing
  • Scratch-X
  • Handheld buffing



While I have been on top of the maintenance, my paint has been failing more and more. At some unknown time white deposits have appeared on the hood of the car. These spots are not removable by hand. The swirls and random scratches are covering the car, and the paint isn't very glossy or rich.



An example of the spot:

White_Spot.jpg




I purchased an Ultimate Detaling Machine from Autopia during their 25% off sale. Along with the buffer I purchased the Swirlbuster polish and pad. I am on vacation for this week and have been tackling the paint with the following steps on my hood, roof and hatch:



  • Wash
  • Clay Bar
  • Swirl Buster (x3)
  • SFX 1
  • SFX 2



The paint looks a LOT better, but there are some problem areas that will not go away. Today I tried the Swirl Buster on the hood twice with really slow motion, allowing the product to break up as much as possible. The scratches and white spots are still visible. Other products I tried:



  • Turtle Wax Compound
  • 3M Glaze
  • SFX 1 (2x)



These spots will not go away! After the above, the spots look like this under Halogen:

White_Spot_Halogen.jpg




None of the products I am using (Swirl Buster, SFX 1 or 2) can get rid of the scratches I have on most of the paint. An example:

Scratches_Floro.jpg






Obviously I am doing something wrong. Can anyone advise me on where to go from here? I am delaying applying wax until I can get some of these spots out!

:help:
 
I didn't realize this came out of the post freeze. Can anyone offer advice? 75+ views and no responses?



Is there a different product I can try?



Do I need to resort to wet sanding?





[EDIT]: I am considering Meguiars 80/83 combo. If this doesn't do it I will move up to 105/205. Application of this will be with my DA, and orange/yellow Lake County pads.
 
M105/205 orange and white pads. saturate your orange pad with 105 and rub it in all over letting it soak in good. then put 1 dime size bead on the pad. put the face of the pad down onto the pain and crank on the UDM full speed. don't worry about spreading it at speed 3 and then cranking it up. just go full power. with the primed pad and the addl bead work an 18x18" section pressing down fairly hard so that the UDM head is spinning slowly. keep the pressure the entire time. after 2-4 sections you'll have to either switch to another orange pad or clean the one you have. it's going to start getting dusty and the original load of 105 you worked into the pad is going to get dry and messy.

your first picture looks like a little volcano. that might be all the way through the clearcoat. the scratches by your door handle should all come out though with the M105.
 
I would try the LC orange pad and the M105/M205 combo.... I believe VW paint is hard so you might have to go with something more aggressive...
 
As an owner of am '01 GTI, I understand your pain. #83 is ok, but I got damn good correction with SIP using a PC and 4" pads. Those white spots almost look like rock chips, but considering how many times your detailer attempted correction, it could be that your clear has gotten so thin that these are the first signs of clear failure.



Assuming you still have a healthy amount of clear though, M105 should work pretty well. I recently did a friend's car with it and boy it's a mad time-saver. Based on what I've read about M205, you should get an LSP-ready finish following up with it.
 
jink- Welcome to Autopia!



The spots like you're pointing out in that pic appear to be chips or otherwise compromised paint. Don't expect much improvement there. Ditto for the kind of pitting you can see in the pic taken under the halogens. Sorry...your paint has simply been through a lot and some things can't be repaired.



For the scratches like in the pic of the doorhandle, you simply need more aggressive stuff and yeah, the M105/orange combo works great. And yeah following up with M205 on a polishing pad should work fine but don't switch to that until the M105 has everything basically as good as you want it; the M105 leaves a pretty decent finish on hard paint like yours.



Those are some pretty severe scratches IMO and to get them out will involve removing a lot of clear. It could also remove that tapestrip (with the "VW" logo) so I'd cover that up with masking tape (yeah, I know, it's a PIA). In the absence of a paint thickness gauge, you might oughta settle for "better" as opposed to "really nice"; if you take off too much paint...well, repainting is expensive compared to just looking at scratches.



Be careful around the edges of the recess behind the door handle. IF you get too aggressive you'll cut through (or otherwise over-thin) the clear there. You'll have to do the area behind the handle by hand, but M105 works OK that way (it'll just take time).
 
EvoMRtunerIX said:
might need actual body work if scratch can't come out.. hmmm
Click to expand...



Eh..it's a well-used car. I'd just get it much better and live with the remaining imperfections. Seemingly trashed paint can last indefinitely as long as you take care of it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top