newbie - I'm not worthy!!

I don't see why you couldn't wash it. Just don't add anything on top of the paint that is going to prevent outgassing of the fresh paint.
 
The car is looking good, a 04 Aston Martin parked next to me and he was admiring my lowly 4 banger's shine while french kissing his girlfriends lhasa apso, don't ask. I know Aston's are know for their bad paint, but hey, I'll take it, so aren't Mazda's.



So, anyways, still, no washie for 6 weeks. Pics. I posted them earlier but forgot to hit submit. Doh.



You can see this stuff if you walk around the car and follow the lines, maybe not so

good in the pictures.



This one shows the pillar in question, middle upper left part of the picture in the trees.

Hard to see, but it's there for sure. About 8 bendies from a paintless dent repair under 3/32" of smoothed out clear coat.



P1040527CROP.jpg




This one shows the hood and a spider web effect, left of the light, you have to look at it for a few seconds to see where it is.



P1040529CROP.jpg




The last one shows the clear coat which is gleemy but soft. do not touch.



P1040530CROP.jpg




At this point going for good, hopefully very good, one day damn good. Gotta dream and always do your best.
 
Whoa I touched the screen and that fender absorbed my finger! You warned me not to touch too... :doh ;)





I can't see the spiderwebbing or the dents on the fender. :confused: They can't be that noticeable if they won't show up in pictures. Could you possibly get them to show better from a different angle or with different lighting?
 
Need help with a quick detailer. recently shot clear coat safe. I ask before I end up doing something bad.



Got some paint smudges going cleaning the windows and door trim being in too much of hurry. Used simplegreen and protect all on the door seals, I like the results. Clearing the overspray. Should have prolly taken the trim completely off, that'll be the next step. I was getting to the point where I knew the rubber was carterizing and the windows were driving me nuts.



Invisible glass on the windows. That situation is seeming under control for the moment.



are any of these good candidates for body shop safe?

Mequires Quick Detailer

Protect All

Novus Plexiglass cleaner #1 for the lexan.



I want something with anti-static properties if possible.



Better pics still coming.
 
Where do you have Lexan on your car?



#80 is a light polish that is body shop safe. I believe #7 might also be body shop safe. I'm not sure about the ones you listed. Many quick detailers contain some type of protectant, whether it be carnauba, silicones, or polymers.
 
#80, #7, man am I green. Is that meguiars80 and turtle wax7??



I could be wrong, but I believe the headlights and tailights are injection

molded lexan, well they are at least plastic of some sort. Lexan would

make sense... My motorcycle windshield is definately lexan. That's why

I have that novus. The novus #1 is real slickery clear liquid leaves a nice

anti static coat, slight film, but the slickness makes up for it, novus #2 is

a brown paste wax, for cutting, I'm thinking about tossing it, but will

save it for later.



Holy cow, this thing is brittle, the clear. I ran some quick detailer down

one spot cause I had let my tails drag and didn't tape and it cut into the

clear like sandpaper. 0% lubricity on the surface. I'm thinking wait the

full 6 weeks without water then plan my vacation around a 3 day clean

up on it.



The water spotted glass is back... I'm gonna end up like the rest of

the folks on here with a power buffer and AIO. Vinegar isn't doing

squat. IG, nothing.



I also have a thing called glass scrub. But you have to put it on wet

and with the condition of the paint right now I'm not sure I even

want to get the car wet.
 
Any time you see a post referring to a #, it's Meg's. #7, #80, #34, #83, etc...

#7 = Show Car Glaze

#80 = Speed Glaze



What do you mean "let my tails drag"? Did you drag your taillights across the paint?
 
Well after a week, the clear is a bit harder. If I stay focused on the glass I can avoid wetting down the paint for as long as possible, maybe wax up the wheels.



Went at the door jams with simple green and protect all on a microfiber, just saturating the areas gently, most of the overspray rises to the surface and sits on a gooey film, then with a second pass it's gone. Been cleaning my motorcycle paint that way for a long time.



took a q-tip and simple green to the rubber around the front and back glass. Also the roof wiring loop (exterior)



Tails draggin. The plastic weather strip where the door and windows meet, I let the rag sag and some protect all got on there. Trying to wipe it off made things worse. But just a small area.



Used 15% white wine distilled vinegar solution, on windows, after IG two days ago. Water pitted glass is the worst. Tried the novus 1, 1, 2, 2, 1, 1 on a 1 inch area, removed a spot/stain but put a little scratch in there. Bought this non returnable coopers wash and wax stuff at the H-D store, gonna try that for my next inconspicuous 1 inch square.
 
Oh, yeah, and look for a highly slick, clear coat safe wash and the #80 or #7. Big fun.

Hopefully one of the OTC products or my Autozone has it.



Playing around with this will be my Christmas present to myself.



I'm writing all this stuff down with the dealer, cause they are just like the worst stewards of car care ever. Eventually, I'll have to write them a letter or something. Unbelieveable.
 
Merry Ho Ho's.



Also picked up clay magic, is this stuff any good? I've heard most clays are about the same, except for the Sonus Extra Fine Clay, which touts monthly useage.



Still need leather cleaner, and Car Wash solution and Carpet/Upholstery Care.



I have Lexol protectant, but ran out of Tanners Cleaner, really mild stuff. Like butter.



I have my 10 year old bottle of Zip Wax, but figure, new car, new bottle, will lean towards NXT Wash. I'm gonna have to search that one.



Carpets, really not necessary yet, but I had just 85% restored my 2 year abused F150 carpets with Meguiars, I think, maroon bottle, takes like 2 weeks to dry completely and not stink, but did a heck of a job removing coke, gum, coffee, pitch...
 
Clay Magic is a widely used clay brand here.



My preferred products:



leather cleaner/conditioner = 1Z Lederpflege, but Natural Look and Pinnacle's leather cleaner/conditioner are both good too.

Car wash soap = TOL's Bubble Bath is very nice. Locally, I like Meg's soaps (Gold Class, NXT, or Deep Crystal soaps)

Carpet-Upholstery care = Detailer's Pride Carpet/Upholstery Cleaner or Meg's APC/water.
 
I've also had good experiences with leatherique products, poorboy's ss&s, and folex for carpets (try adding some oxyclean to some water and using that too).
 
okay pics.... just a few pics and a few more questions, honest...



the car was clear coated about 3 weeks ago, I prolly mentioned... except the trunk and roof...

why??? you tell me... but the trunk lid is like the only noticable place for mass improvement...



1. I was missing this piece of plastic then noticed with my camera, brown staining on the seats, like the prep team put nasty old armor all on the seat belts.... gonna try hot water first, then 303 cleaner spot remover



MISSINGPARTS.jpg




2. I'm wanting to apply 303 protectant to the dash, but have heard it's best to clean thoroughly first.... maybe the 303 cleaner and spot remover??? simple green, lexol

something readily available if possible



303DASH.jpg




3. I tried to clay out these scratches, maybe need to get out the compound.



545CROP.jpg




I used Megs (( but this damage is pretty serious ))

paint cleaner (4)

scratch-x (4)

clay w/lube, then wash soap - (2)

paint cleaner (1)

clay w/ was suds - (2)

paint cleaner - (2)

scratch-x (4)

then gave up and ran out of time, wanted some shine

nxt - (4)

S100 - (1)



544CROP.jpg




4. At least the back of the car took on some flavor



FINISHEDCROP.jpg
 
You can't clay out scratches. It will remove any clear coat that's raised above the surface, but so will a compound or polish, which is what you need to use anyway, depending on the severity of the scratch.
 
I'm not seeing what you see in the first pic.



Yeah it's best to use a plastic cleaner on the dash or other plastics/vinyl before applying a protectant. 303 cleaner would work fine. Some protectants though, like Trim Restorer or Natural Look contain cleaners as well, so they do both steps at once.
 
First pic, look left of the seat belt, and top of the seat cushion, hopefully it's just a lense flare, lighting O-R it's possible that it's just sun damage. Anyways, would have never noticed if I hadn't taken a snapshot, I have to hunt down that piece of plastic above this area, another story.



Here's a better angle. I'm thinking hot water on a damp rag. That's always my first answer. I'm not really that OCD, honest, had I not seen this photo, I just figured I should investigate.



BROWNING.jpg




On the dash, I'll look for Trim Restorer or Natural Look. Are they readily available?? ((I'm a Autozone shopper))

I like a matte look, but darker and richer... Prolly try the 303 first. I sent away for the 2oz sample pack, ((2oz. bottles of 303 protectant, 303 cleaner and spot remover, actually wondering if the 303 cleaner and spot remover is as good as the 303 aerospace cleaner for a prep??))



Maybe hitting the L.A. Auto Show and going around the detailer area, and pickup a years supply all at once.
 
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