newbie - I'm not worthy!!

D

DuMouixe

New member
P1040525-.jpg




Hi I'm DuMouixe (( pronounced ^do-maaah-s, not dumbass, LOL))



Finally bought an economy car after burning through 5 Ford Trucks...



So I will finally have a vehicle small enough to garage park at both ends.



I'll be lerking around for tips and advice to take my car care to new levels.



My next project, basic cleaning, polish, seal and wax, attempting to kick butt on some knarly water spots.



Just saying hi, I'll try and not ask too many dumb questions all at once.
 
You are in the right place. Welcome to the forum!!



Sounds like you know where to start. Just ask anything. Searches are a good tool as well!!
 
:drool: Nice car! My next car will probably be a Mazda6. I haven't decided whether I want the 6s or the 6i yet. Or there's always the Mazdaspeed6! :spot :hifive:



Now get a PC so you can start doing this --> :waxing:



And post pics when you finish detailing it! :2thumbs:





Oh, and :welcome to Autopia! :wavey
 
That graphite grey color looks really nice on that car. It hides defects really well too so that's always a plus :dance



I hope to see more pictures of the car, it looks good even before you started :D Welcome to the OCD (obsessive compulsive detailers!) club
 
Still getting used to the buttons on the 6.



I bought it for mileage and quiet ride. ((could even be quieter with Continentals))



Has a mid boost/cut which is nice on stock radio.



I mistakenly bought the dealer prep & they botched up pretty good. To the point of where they are fixing some paint problems over the weekend. But, yeah, not a bad car, they gave me a Subaru Forester and it feels more like a Mazda than the actual Mazda does.
 
It actually does hide alot, that's why I went there. Black cars tend to give me mood swings.



(recovering OCD, now practicing moderation in moderation). But I want it to look nice.
 
Don't be scared of the PC. It's a harmless little toy. :) It can transform a good-looking car into an awesome-looking car, with essentially nothing to worry about.



To apply a carnauba wax, just get some foam hand applicators (many of us use the yellow Meguiars pads) at a local store and use those. Don't make the common mistake of beginners, and lay down globs of wax on the car. A thin coat (almost transparent) is all you need. The same amount of wax is going to stick to the paint whether you apply a very thin layer of a 1/2" thick layer.

I'd recommend buying a paste carnauba. I find pastes easier to apply thin. One swipe in the jar and you're set for at least 1/2 a panel.
 
I've been doing non-overlapping rows, as sparse as possible.



I guess, I'll have to practice with the PC on the white pickup. Maybe a panel or two to get the hang of it.



Is cold hose water okay as a clay lube? cause it seem a lot more convenient.



Right now I have the beginners stuff, paint cleaner, scratch-x, got about this far before taking it back to the dealer, and tenatively planning on using nxt & s100.



No clay bar yet. For shame.
 
NXT + S100 would be a good start :) You'll be itching to try new combos to get the best finish possible. :)



I prefer to use some kind of QD or soap to lubricate the clay better than water can. I mix up a spray bottle with car soap and water when I'm claying. Without enough lubrication, the clay will scratch the paint.
 
GOOD ARTICLE. A bit scared of the SLING factor, but I'll pick one of these toys up around chinese new year. LOL. if not sooner.



God save the Queen, or Geese Belize, I just am sitting on pins and needles here, waiting to see WHAT comes back from the autobody shop.



Although I may replace the glass with solar-tint embedded panes, ala, SUV back window style, around $800, for the time being, I'm still fighting those water spots, I've heard Oreck bathroom cleaner will zap 'em completely.
 
Klasse AIO or white vinegar would be much safer alternatives to using a bathroom cleaner on your car.



I've removed some horrible hard water spots with AIO, so I know it is a very capable product.
 
Shoot - didn't mean to put a scare on. Zamakazi's and typing just don't mix.

On second thought, maybe not such a good idea. I'd have to tape everything off.

Thanks for the RC, there.



Polishing glass always seem tantamount to failure. But when there's a will, there's a way.



BTW, is AIO or the Glaze pink?? Because, I used a pink product for a while a roommate had and the imperfections erased very quickly and easily. Acrylic good, swirl marks bad. ((or is it?))



OR is Jet Wax easier to work with regarding buildup? I'm not sure I'm buying that,

put a capful in your wash bucket, instructions on the back of the klasse bottle, to erase buildup...
 
AIO is not pink and will not remove swirls. Yes acrylic is good IMO. Klasse sealant glaze is one of the most durable products you'll hear about on this forum.



I don't know what Jet Wax is. Is that something you put in that dispenser in the dishwasher? ;)
 
LOL. But man, that new cascade rocks for stainless flatware! Long live shineguard. LOL. ((really, but not for cars))



I appreciate the help. I will post back in a couple few when I start getting down to business.



Mezerna's line is starting to look interesting.

<http://www.properautocare.com/menklasconki.html>



Oh, to be young and on a budget...



I'll just lightly slather for now, the meguiars paint cleaner did put on a nice pop, but it took almost three days to settle in.



Gonna stick with the by-hand for now...
 
Nice car. I have a car about the same color, so, I will be watching your progress, and your prodect experiments with an eye toward mine.



I've been here only six months, and I have changed almost everything I do to care for my car. And, I continue to learn even more.



When I want to clay my car, I wash it of course, and then, fix a fresh bucket of really soapy car wash. I use it as a clay lube. I soap up part of a panel, then clay, then rinse, and go on to the next area.



Or, as someone earlier mentioned, a spray bottle of such a solution would work, too.



Anyway, welcome! I look at a number of different forums in a number of my areas of interest. IMO, some of the nicest, most knowledgeable people around hang out here.
 
Clear coat, it looks like they wet sanded a good portion of the car and sprayed it with a layer of clear coat. Not sure how to proceed on that. Maybe wait a month to wash it?? 6 weeks? #$%^*&. Or is that my cue to get some good waxing in? (THIS IS MY NEWBIE SHOWING)



I orig had a blip of debris in the pillar from the factory, somehow the dealer managed to put dent after dent after dent in the area before, apparantly doing a paintless dent repair and shooting clear over it. Visibly noticible at the correct angle, or should I say M-ANGLE. I think I could have done a better job with an exacto knife, touchup paint, a sanding block and two or three blindfolds. :angry



Should I do some off surface corrections? Clay? Clear coat cleaner? Is there such a thing? Too soon? The last thing I wanna do at this point is make it worse. (WAAAA) :nixweiss



I can have them try again or find someone else.



It might be a while before I can arm into this puppy. I don't wanna grind into fresh paint. :xyxthumbs



In advance, any help appreciated in this area. Sorry so long. :wall I'll take some pics, life is no fun without pics.



Right now it actually looks pretty good overall, up to about 3 feet away.
 
Now we REALLY need pics to help you.



The general consensus is that you need to let fresh paint (clearcoat) cure for 30-60 days before waxing or sealing it.
 
Can I even wash it? Oy!!! I'm glad I initally cleaned the paint, but almost wish I had tried a little harder. Cause now things are like on 'hold', is my take here.



pics soon.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top