Newb with Z06. Need complete car info

[brewersprts]

Hey, I am a relative newbie who has been lurking on the forums for a while now. I want to take care of my Z06 the best that I can and get it looking amazing. I figured I'd say what process and products I've been using and anything I could do to improve my car wash/ detail results would be greatly appreciated.



So the car is black on black. I use a microfiber mitt and wash with use Turtlewax Zip Wash as my soap. If I feel I need to claybat my car I usually will wash it a second time and use the soapy water as the lubricant, instead of using a quick detail spray. I usually use just soapy water and another wash sponge or something to clean the wheels.



For wax I use meguiars show car glaze and yellow wax on top of that. I use the meguiars detail spray as needed.



Any problems with any of these products, combinations, or how I'm doing it?



Like everyone else, I want my car to look amazing. It usually sits in the garage but I do drive it often. Cars are meant to be driven.



I do wish I could find a good wheel cleaner because my wheels get very dirty, very quickly because of the ceramic brakes. It is not very fun to clean inbetween the spokes and all the little nooks in the corners. I've tried Armor all wheel protectant and it gives me little black spots all over my wheels, I'm guessing because of the ceramic brakes.



I'd also like to find a good interior cleaner that doesn't make my dash look like armor all and collect a bunch of lint.



As far as the interior, it's leather of course, but since it's GM I'm guessing that some of the seat is vinyl as well, but I'm not sure. I've been using megs leather cleaner/conditioner. I can't say Ive had problems with it, but I'm not extremely pleased, especially with the smell. My seats never smell like leather.



Any tips or info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.



Donnie

 

[Thomas Dekany]

Donnie - vehicles with ceramic brakes supposed to stay cleaner not get dirtier.:noidea:

 

[Dan]

Yeah, I'm pretty sure the Z06 does not have ceramic brakes. I've seen them with wheels that look completely orange. I would definitely clay, my brand new vette was coated with all sorts of crap and it only sat on the dealer lot for a week. As far as your products, I'd probably switch to a better wash as well as brush up on your washing technique to minimize any marring.

 

[Accumulator]

Hey, I am a relative newbie who has been lurking on the forums for a while now. I want to take care of my Z06 the best that I can and get it looking amazing. I figured I'd say what process and products I've been using and anything I could do to improve my car wash/ detail results would be greatly appreciated.



So the car is black on black. I use a microfiber mitt and wash with use Turtlewax Zip Wash as my soap...

I used to use ZipWash and when I switched to a better shampoo with better lubricity and encapsulation my wash-induced marring was significantly redu

For wax I use meguiars show car glaze and yellow wax on top of that. I use the meguiars detail spray as needed.

Which "yellow wax"? #26 perhaps? Looks nice, but doesn't last very long.

Any problems with any of these products, combinations, or how I'm doing it?

Are *you* happy with your results? IMO that's all that counts. If you're completely satisfied then I wouldn't look for problems you don't have



If, OTOH, you're not happy with something....the approach you're using (M07 + wax) is a good old-school approach that I used for ages back in the day. While it works well on old-tech single stage paint, IMO there are better, more modern, approaches that are much better suited to basecoat/clearcoat paint systems.



But again, if you're happy then I wouldn't look for something to worry about.

I do wish I could find a good wheel cleaner because my wheels get very dirty, very quickly because of the ceramic brakes. It is not very fun to clean inbetween the spokes and all the little nooks in the corners.

I'd buy some good wheel cleaner (I like Griot's and/or P21s) and some good boar's hair brushes ("BHB"s) made for cleaning wheels. When you made a vague reference to "using a sponge or something.." that did kinda catch my eye as I'll use a wide array of items (BHBs, sponges, sheepskin mitts, swabs) to clean my wheels; different wheels call for different approaches and all my vehicles are just a little different in that regard.

I've tried Armor all wheel protectant and it gives me little black spots all over my wheels, I'm guessing because of the ceramic brakes.

All my vehicles with ceramic brakes (and I wonder, are you running the GM ones?) stay cleaner than my vehicles without them, but yeah, they still need cleaned.

I'd also like to find a good interior cleaner that doesn't make my dash look like armor all and collect a bunch of lint.

I hardly *ever* tread my interior vinyl, IMO modern stuff doesn't really need it. I'd clean it with something like Griot's Interior Cleaner and then just maintain it with Meguiar's Interior Quick Detailer or 1Z Cockpit Premium. I utterly despise "interior slime" dressings, yuck!

As far as the interior, it's leather of course, but since it's GM I'm guessing that some of the seat is vinyl as well, but I'm not sure. I've been using megs leather cleaner/conditioner. I can't say Ive had problems with it, but I'm not extremely pleased, especially with the smell. My seats never smell like leather.

My GMs (including the 'vettes I've had) never really smelled like "leather" but rather like "GM vehicles with leather interiors", which is a bit different from "GM vehicles without leather interiors".



Good leather stuff IMO: Leather Masters and stuff from Leather Doctor/Richard Koh (Richard is a member here). But again, IMO modern leather interiors don't need all that much other than to be kept clean.

 

[brewersprts]

Yeah, I'm pretty sure the Z06 does not have ceramic brakes. I've seen them with wheels that look completely orange. I would definitely clay, my brand new vette was coated with all sorts of crap and it only sat on the dealer lot for a week. As far as your products, I'd probably switch to a better wash as well as brush up on your washing technique to minimize any marring.

You're kinda right. Only the new Z06 Carbon Edition's or cars with the Z07 package have carbon ceramic brakes. Unfortunately, at 24, I can't spend $90,000 on a car. I have aftermarket brakes on my car, maybe that is the reason for the excess brake dust. I also dont drive the Z06 a lot, but when I do, I can't say I'm the most cautious driver all the time.





I am not really happy with what I've been using. After using the glaze and wax I can't say it looks much better than if I just wash and then use a quick detail spray. I am going to get my car buffed by a local guy here soon, and I want to make sure I dont get anymore swirls or anything, plus I want it to look better.



I want my car to have that wet look, and I just don't seem to get the results I want from what I've been using. I don't want to waste a bunch of money trying a bunch of different stuff either. I know everyone has thier preference in car products, but I just want to know what type of newer products I should be using.

 

[Accumulator]

I am not really happy with what I've been using. After using the glaze and wax I can't say it looks much better than if I just wash and then use a quick detail spray...

Then yeah, you do need a different/better approach.

I am going to get my car buffed by a local guy here soon, and I want to make sure I dont get anymore swirls or anything, plus I want it to look better.

Oh man I hope that guy is good. There area *SO* few decent people out there....IMO 95% of the people who do such stuff (and I'm talking about "professionals" at least in the sense that they charge money for it) are utter hacks who do more harm than good. I'd be nervous as can be :nervous2: I'd do it myself, but it's easy for me to spend your money (though a polisher oughta cost about the same that a good pro would charge) and time (this stuff takes a while).



How much is the pro charging? This stuff doesn't come cheap when decent people are doing it.



Once you get it corrected, the trick to keeping it nice will be to sort out your wash regimen so you don't mar it up again. Easier said than done.



Other than the washes, it shouldn't need much other than occasionally redoing the wax/sealant.

//I want my car to have that wet look, and I just don't seem to get the results I want from what I've been using. I don't want to waste a bunch of money trying a bunch of different stuff either. I know everyone has thier preference in car products, but I just want to know what type of newer products I should be using.

You need to remove the exixting marring (that's the "swirl removal"/polishing part of it) so the pait reflects light instead of refracting light. Apply a wax/sealant/LSP (Last Step Product) that has the look you like. Then just avoid marring it up again.

 

[brewersprts]

This guy isn't a detail guy, he's a body guy. He owns a body shop that does mostly commercial and really high end body work. He has done several cars for me in the past and done a few of my friend's cars. They always turned out magnificent. I absolutely would trust his body work on any car I ever have. I haven't ever had him do any type of paint correction so I can't say if he is good at that or not. I hope so, but body work and detailing are a seperate skill set. I would love to tackle the polishing myself but I am afraid to burn through my paint or cause more damage than I fix.



And I do want to reduce any problems that I might cause in the future, but I am not sure which way to go. Are higher end products always better? Adam's videos have me wanting to open my bank account. Is it really worth the extra money over Meg's or something else that is cheaper?



I'm not sure what products have the look I like.

 

[togwt]

The Corvette like many other vehicles has finished leather upholstery-



Finish leather Cleaning / Care CliffNotes® Version



Simple cleaning and protection steps that will prolong the life of finished leather. The type of leather upholstery used by 95% of OEM is a multi strata covering over the leather hide; pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane. Finished leather s only requirement is to be kept clean and protected, urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation



An acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, then two or three aqueous (water- based) pigmented base coat applications, and then a clear aqueous (water- based) top coat is applied, which usually includes additives to give it a soft feel and abrasion resistance as well as a limited amount of ‘slide’ to assist in entering and exiting the vehicle as the final stage of the finishing process.



Identifying characteristics - this type of surface; it will also have an even shine.



The water-drop absorbency test- water drops will ‘bead’ on the surface



Absorbency rate -Low



(a) Clean - as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear. Use aqueous (water- based) foam cleaner (Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner) especially on aniline or ventilated seats. Always apply product to an applicator not the finished leather surface. If you spray a cleaning product directly to the surface it will ‘spot / streak clean’ certain areas



(b) Hydrated - use aqueous (water- based) products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use them. Clean surfaces with a damp towel.



(c) Protected - is essential as it will protect the surface finish (Leather Masterâ„¢ - Protection Cream) as a sacrificial layer and makes dirt easier to clean off and an ultra violet protective product (UVR) will preserve the finish.

Leather Masterâ„¢ - Protection Cream (a Scotchgardâ„¢ type product specifically formulated for lather) the polymers penetrate the surface of finished leather and cross-link to form a durable protective film that is breathable and keeps the leather supple. Being aqueous (water- based) it restores moisture to finished leather and provides a protective barrier against every kind of soiling, water, oil, alcohol-based stains and perspiration marks.



(d) Patina(softness) - used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre to ensure the finished leather remains soft and supple; apply Leather Masterâ„¢ Soft Touch (ex Soft Vital) and allow to dry for approx 20 minutes, finally using a clean dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel buff to a matte sheen. This product is NOT a conditioner per se but is used to restore the softness to hard finished leather; place the car in a sunny location and roll down the windows. Allow the car to sit in the sun for one or two hours to warm the surfaces.



The hides used for automobile upholstery are treated with fat liquor and then sealed at the tannery. The only 'conditioning' required for finished leather upholstery is hydration; oil-based products cannot permeate the finish (urethane pigmentation or covering) that is used in 95% plus of modern automobiles



Always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself



I'd also like to find a good interior cleaner that doesn't make my dash look like armor all and collect a bunch of lint.





1z Plastic Cleaner (Plastik-Reiniger) - an intensive, non-corrosive, non-acidic two-phase deep cleaner that removes grime build-up, scuff marks, bitumen (tar) and nicotine thoroughly and effortlessly with dust-resistant anti-static action. Use to clean armrests, door handles, shift knobs, vinyl seats, pedals, dashboard, storage compartments, tires, rocker panels, wheel wells, and etc. Water-based formula is biodegradable, silicone and formalin-free as well as environmentally friendly.



Iz Cockpit Premium – an interior care and protectant developed specifically for that original matte-satin factory finish. This is a treatment spray for all interior components including the dash, finished leather and vinyl seats, door handles, trim, navigation screens, stereo head units, and clear plastic. It has very limited cleaning ability but it provides UV protection for interior materials. The gentle formula is water-based and free of oils providing a non-slip finish, which allows for application on the steering wheel, shift knob and both finished leather and vinyl upholstery.

 

[togwt]

[As far as the interior, it's leather of course, but since it's GM I'm guessing that some of the seat is vinyl as well, but I'm not sure. I've been using megs leather cleaner/conditioner. I can't say Ive had problems with it, but I'm not extremely pleased, especially with the smell. My seats never smell like leather.]



The Corvette like many other vehicles use finished leather for their upholstery, my experiences with 'leather aroma' products is that they smell a lot more like chemicals than leather



Finish leather Cleaning / Care



Simple cleaning and protection steps that will prolong the life of finished leather. The type of leather upholstery used by 95% of OEM is a multi strata covering over the leather hide; pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane. Finished leather s only requirement is to be kept clean and protected, urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation

An acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, then two or three aqueous (water- based) pigmented base coat applications, and then a clear aqueous (water- based) top coat is applied, which usually includes additives to give it a soft feel and abrasion resistance as well as a limited amount of ‘slide’ to assist in entering and exiting the vehicle as the final stage of the finishing process.



Identifying characteristics - this type of surface; it will also have an even shine.



The water-drop absorbency test- water drops will ‘bead’ on the surface



Absorbency rate -Low



(a) Clean - as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear. Use aqueous (water- based) foam cleaner (Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner) especially on aniline or ventilated seats. Always apply product to an applicator not the finished leather surface. If you spray a cleaning product directly to the surface it will ‘spot / streak clean’ certain areas



(b) Hydrated - use aqueous (water- based) products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use themClean surfaces with a damp towel.



(c) Protected - is essential as it will protect the surface finish (Leather Master™ - Protection Cream) as a sacrificial layer and makes dirt easier to clean off and an ultra violet protective product (UVR) will preserve the finish.

Leather Master™ - Protection Cream (a Scotchgard™ type product specifically formulated for lather) the polymers penetrate the surface of finished leather and cross-link to form a durable protective film that is breathable and keeps the leather supple. Being aqueous (water- based) it restores moisture to finished leather and provides a protective barrier against every kind of soiling, water, oil, alcohol-based stains and perspiration marks.



(d) Patina(softness) - used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre to ensure the finished leather remains soft and supple; apply Leather Master™ Soft Touch (ex Soft Vital) and allow to dry for approx 20 minutes, finally using a clean dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel buff to a matte sheen. This product is NOT a conditioner per se but is used to restore the softness to hard finished leather; place the car in a sunny location and roll down the windows. Allow the car to sit in the sun for one or two hours to warm the surfaces.

The hides used for automobile upholstery are treated with fat liquor and then sealed at the tannery. The only 'conditioning' required for finished leather upholstery is hydration; oil-based products cannot permeate the finish (urethane pigmentation or covering) that is used in 95% plus of modern automobiles



Always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself





[I'd also like to find a good interior cleaner that doesn't make my dash look like armor all and collect a bunch of lint]



1z Plastic Cleaner (Plastik-Reiniger) - an intensive, non-corrosive, non-acidic two-phase deep cleaner that removes grime build-up, scuff marks, bitumen (tar) and nicotine thoroughly and effortlessly with dust-resistant anti-static action. Use to clean armrests, door handles, shift knobs, vinyl seats, pedals, dashboard, storage compartments, tires, rocker panels, wheel wells, and etc. Water-based formula is biodegradable, silicone and formalin-free as well as environmentally friendly.



There is no such thing as a permanent UV stabilizer, it a matter of physics, not chemistry. Providing protection from ultra violet radiation (UV) is very important to avoid photo synthesis (colour fading) particularly in an open-air roadster/convertible UV protection is a sacrificial / renewable component; this is due to the UV protection layer being degraded by exposure to the elements (sun, sand, road or sea salt, and etc); so it is imperative that you renew it and needs to be re-applied on a regular 45 to 60 day basis (dependent upon location climatic condition)



Iz Cockpit Premium – an interior care and protectant developed specifically for that original matte-satin factory finish. This is a treatment spray for all interior components including the dash, finished leather and vinyl seats, door handles, trim, navigation screens, stereo head units, and clear plastic. It has very limited cleaning ability but it provides UV protection for interior materials. The gentle formula is water-based and free of oils providing a non-slip finish, which allows for application on the steering wheel, shift knob and both finished leather and vinyl upholstery.

 

[Accumulator]

This guy isn't a detail guy, he's a body guy. He owns a body shop that does mostly commercial and really high end body work. He has done several cars for me in the past and done a few of my friend's cars. They always turned out magnificent. I absolutely would trust his body work on any car I ever have. I haven't ever had him do any type of paint correction so I can't say if he is good at that or not. I hope so, but body work and detailing are a seperate skill set...

My one painter is almost as good as I am, but 99.9999% of the really good paint/body guys I've known (and that's a long list) were utterly incompetent at correction by my standards. I sure hope he does more good than harm.

I would love to tackle the polishing myself but I am afraid to burn through my paint or cause more damage than I fix.

That's *extremely* unlikely. More likely is that your efforts will be too gentle to get things as nice as you want.



More likely that the paint/body guy will do damage IMO, not to disparage somebody whom I don't know or anything...don't mean to be unfair.

And I do want to reduce any problems that I might cause in the future, but I am not sure which way to go. Are higher end products always better?

In some cases yes. E.g., very good shampoos offer much better lubricity and encapsulation than cheaper ones, resulting in less marring (all other things being equal).

Adam's videos have me wanting to open my bank account. Is it really worth the extra money over Meg's or something else that is cheaper?

Depends on the product(s) in question, though I've never used Adam's stuff (I found his "how to wash" video *very*...uhm.....well....that approach wouldn't work for me).

I'm not sure what products have the look I like.

There's a degree of trial-and-error involved, but maybe you'll get lucky.



Actually, IMO...99.9% of "what looks best" is utter BS with regard to applying to normal people, and is just somebody trying to sound high-falutin' . Pick something well-regarded from a major brand and I bet you'll be happy. Short answer: try a wax from Collinite or FK1000P from FinishKare. Or just use Zaino All-In-One.



When it comes to polishes however, most are *NOT* user-friendly so I'd absolutely stick with the ones that *are*. But it sounds like you're not planning to do your own polishing anyhow (repeat concerns about letting the paint/body guy do it).