new to the forum but not the game!

B

B.M.W

New member
hello all im 30 years old with having done detailing since i was 18 im soooo glad i found this forum. i started out at a mercedes/audi/porche franchise dealership for 6 bux an hour lol, but the stuff i learned to do with a rotary is priceless :headbang i just bought a dewalt 849 through my job and cant wait to go to town on some cars!! my first target is my red bmw 1993, hellrot red with mild oxidation.

where i worked we used a white course like grit compound followed by medium cut the hand wax, i know stuff has changed over the uears and would like to know whats hot and whats not :kneel
 
Welcome to DC!
With your experience with a rotary and some of the great products that are available from many suppliers, you should be in good shape.
Even a PC helps, but knowing how to use a rotary has to help lots more.

Charles
 
im a bit confused as my options are so wide open as far as products.

all i need is a good compound,medium cut and wax and i can have a surface looking like chrome. however with the introduction to " claying" in my arsenal i know my results will be even more amazing.

im torn between zymol and klasse as far as wax goes. i know ill use 3m stuff cor compounds and meguirs for a nice polish.
 
B.M.W said:
im a bit confused as my options are so wide open as far as products.

all i need is a good compound,medium cut and wax and i can have a surface looking like chrome. however with the introduction to " claying" in my arsenal i know my results will be even more amazing.

im torn between zymol and klasse as far as wax goes. i know ill use 3m stuff cor compounds and meguirs for a nice polish.
Click to expand...
For a last step product, neither Klasse or Zymol would be my choice, but to each his own.
Both Meguiar's and 3M have extensive lines that include compounds, polishes and LSP's. You might want to visit with your Meg's or 3M distributor for some suggestions. For professional use, your choice of products might be a lot different than for your own personal vehicles.
Meg's has a great Professional Products catalog and I would bet that 3M does too.

Charles
 
thats my dilema, i work for a company that distributes autobody piant and detailing supplies. i get everything at cost :shift but like i said theres a ton on product

what would be a basic arenal of products you would recomend for german cars?
 
Welcome aboard! Take a look at our sponsors sites and you can find some great deals on many great products. I personally like PoorBoy's lineup! Be sure to take some before and after pics so you can show us how it worked out! Good to have another rotary buff on here!

Mike
 
B.M.W said:
thats my dilema, i work for a company that distributes autobody piant and detailing supplies. i get everything at cost :shift but like i said theres a ton on product

what would be a basic arenal of products you would recomend for german cars?
Click to expand...
Being a hobby detailer, I'm not the right person to give you a list.
Of course not knowing what I'm talking about has never stopped me, so...

Since you are using a rotary.

Meg's #1 Medium Cut Cleaner
Meg's #83 DACP
Meg's #80 Speed Glaze
Meg's #20 Polymer Sealant (Possibly the new #21 which may be a replacement for #20)
or
Meg's #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax

For the quicky that isn't in too bad of condition, Meg's #66 Quick Detailer which is a fairly aggressive cleaner/wax. Don't be misled by the name. It is not a quick detail spray like most of us are familiar with.

Charles
 
how many steps are you guys using? when i worked at dealership this is how we did it.

1. wash/wheels
2. tape emblems ww/fluid tips, door handles ect
3. compound with a thick white gritty compound with a wool pad
4. wash to get crap from the compound from crevices then dry
5. medium cut with yellow waffle pad ( pinkish in color)
6. polish with a dark foam pad ( white fluid)
7. hand wax ( if i remeber correct it was blue coral)
8. remove wax with cheese cloth
9. have camera ready as there was always phat cars coming in

interior was a whole other animal, but this is how we detailed cars for the biggest mercedes/porsche/audi/vw in the state and rarly ever had complaints.

sometimes we had a treat!! when the bodyshop guys from the next bay over called out sick there was usually acsses to the comprssor with the air buffer, we all fought over that damn thing cause it was so fun to use and the paint came out well you can use your imagination
 
You'll find that most of us steer away from (heavier) compounds because the risk to reward factor isn't the greatest. It sounds like your experience is similar to mine...the shop I started at ALWAYS used a heavy, gritty compound first, no matter what the condition of the car.

Since coming to DC and the other sites, the "Less is best" philosophy has really taken hold. Basically, why use a heavy compound when you can get as good or better results with a medium polish.

I haven't had to use anything more aggressive than Meg's DACP since I came to see the light. I just did my wife's '96 Jeep (which is a scratch/swirl disaster) with a rotary and #9 Swirl Remover which is a very light polish and the finish turned out beautifully.

It's a lot easier to step up to a more aggressive polish if it doesn't remove the defects you're going after, but it's a different story if the product you're using is too aggressive and does damage. Like the old carpenters' saying "Measure twice, cut once," You can always cut off more wood (polish off more paint) if the piece is still too long, but you can't put wood back if you cut it too short (burn through to metal).

A side benefit is that if the milder product takes care of the defects, you've just eliminated a step (polishing out the marks from the heavier compound) and saved time/product.

Forgive the long post, once I get started, I tend to get on a roll and not stop :write ;)
 
Don said:
You'll find that most of us steer away from (heavier) compounds because the risk to reward factor isn't the greatest. It sounds like your experience is similar to mine...the shop I started at ALWAYS used a heavy, gritty compound first, no matter what the condition of the car.

Since coming to DC and the other sites, the "Less is best" philosophy has really taken hold. Basically, why use a heavy compound when you can get as good or better results with a medium polish.

I haven't had to use anything more aggressive than Meg's DACP since I came to see the light. I just did my wife's '96 Jeep (which is a scratch/swirl disaster) with a rotary and #9 Swirl Remover which is a very light polish and the finish turned out beautifully.

It's a lot easier to step up to a more aggressive polish if it doesn't remove the defects you're going after, but it's a different story if the product you're using is too aggressive and does damage. Like the old carpenters' saying "Measure twice, cut once," You can always cut off more wood (polish off more paint) if the piece is still too long, but you can't put wood back if you cut it too short (burn through to metal).

A side benefit is that if the milder product takes care of the defects, you've just eliminated a step (polishing out the marks from the heavier compound) and saved time/product.

Forgive the long post, once I get started, I tend to get on a roll and not stop :write ;)
Click to expand...

HEY MAN no sweat im glad to see similarities with other mebers, yea my boss always made us use the heavy grit on every car, needless to say by the time i got home i was ready to collapse :naughty

this place rules



:dj
 
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