New Rotary User Help

So lets just say that it is pad hazing what can I do to prevent it. Im also using my older Double soft towels from adams they are starting to leave a lot of lint on the surface when wiping away the polishing residue so that could be also what is being seen on the surface... Im probably going to make another new thread as ill be looking to purchase a finishing polisher soon but I really cant decide between the Flex XFE7-15 or the Rupes LHR15 Mk3 I currently have all flex machines
 
DarkThrottle said:
So lets just say that it is pad hazing what can I do to prevent it. Im also using my older Double soft towels from adams they are starting to leave a lot of lint on the surface when wiping away the polishing residue so that could be also what is being seen on the surface... Im probably going to make another new thread as ill be looking to purchase a finishing polisher soon but I really cant decide between the Flex XFE7-15 or the Rupes LHR15 Mk3 I currently have all flex machines
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Either it`s the finishing combo that`s too gentle and don`t take out the micro marring from the compounding step. Or that`s the pad is too aggressive and leaves micro marring behind or the finishing polish but doubt the last one since you used the sf4000. Maybe if you didn`t break it down enough. Don`t think that it`s the mf towel since it`s just so fine of a haze and uniform. Useally it`s shows in the ways you have wiped off the polish if you get towel marring. And if it`s clearer when you use the inspection light in real life then don`t worry about it. Pictures don`t always shows how it really looks.
 
Great point for reference I did use the LC white foam hybrid pad and the SF4000 to finish down in those pictures

Also...Are pads with center holes safe to run on my rotary I got a deal on 6 Force hybrid 5.5 pads I couldn’t pass up and I’m very interested in that as I can run 5.5 on the rotary and 6.5 on my 3401 and have a pad system that works across both of my current machines I want to add a DA for finishing work but can’t decide between Rupes 15 or Flex XFE7-15


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Heh heh..IMO there`s never a case of "the camera doing it" ;) More like, the camera isn`t as fallible as the human eye under some conditions; it can`t capture issues that aren`t really there. Hope that didn`t sound too snarky :o I`ll allow that OTOH it can be really *hard* to get pix of flaws when you want to!

DarkThrottle- Go with somebody else`s suggestions for Inspection Lighting; I use an old 3M SunGun and you don`t want one of those! And even with that, when I used the rotary I`d spend literally *HOURS* at just the right time of day, with at least one helper, inspecting in natural sunlight. I`ve heard mixed reviews on the various generations of Scangrip lights (some people here won`t post publicly about their poor experiences because others say "no problem") so be sure you get the right one if you go that route.

I won`t argue with you over the holograms :D If you`re happy then that`s that IMO! But I`ve seen even gentle Finish Polishes on soft foam pads cause `em (that`s how the Pro left `em on my Yukon).

If shopping for a RO/DA, since you have the Flex 3401 I`d probably look at the new Griot`s unit with the 9mm throw. Although I hear it won`t work with 3-4" pads.

SWETM brings up a good point- even though holograms are "mild, shallow marring" that *oughta* correct easy-peasy, it doesn`t always go that way. I`ve had to drop back down to pretty harsh stuff (via RO/DA) to get those "shallow little things" out!
 
Accumulator said:
Heh heh..IMO there`s never a case of "the camera doing it" ;) More like, the camera isn`t as fallible as the human eye under some conditions; it can`t capture issues that aren`t really there. Hope that didn`t sound too snarky :o I`ll allow that OTOH it can be really *hard* to get pix of flaws when you want to!

DarkThrottle- Go with somebody else`s suggestions for Inspection Lighting; I use an old 3M SunGun and you don`t want one of those! And even with that, when I used the rotary I`d spend literally *HOURS* at just the right time of day, with at least one helper, inspecting in natural sunlight. I`ve heard mixed reviews on the various generations of Scangrip lights (some people here won`t post publicly about their poor experiences because others say "no problem") so be sure you get the right one if you go that route.

I won`t argue with you over the holograms :D If you`re happy then that`s that IMO! But I`ve seen even gentle Finish Polishes on soft foam pads cause `em (that`s how the Pro left `em on my Yukon).

If shopping for a RO/DA, since you have the Flex 3401 I`d probably look at the new Griot`s unit with the 9mm throw. Although I hear it won`t work with 3-4" pads.

SWETM brings up a good point- even though holograms are "mild, shallow marring" that *oughta* correct easy-peasy, it doesn`t always go that way. I`ve had to drop back down to pretty harsh stuff (via RO/DA) to get those "shallow little things" out!
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I was interested in the Griots machine until I saw a lot of reviews that said it’s great But keep a lot of brushes on hand...I don’t believe in buying anything that requires me to have a stock pile of parts to make sure “Just in case this breaks “ I have another one..I’d rather buy quality then buy back ups of those so if I break it then I also have another unit of same high quality to continue with...I really want to stay within 1-2 systems and If I can buy a German or Italian version of anything and I can afford it I’d much rather have that option..Which brings me back to Flex XFE7-15 or Rupes Mark 3 LHR15 price don’t matter on either as I get any machine from either maker for a hell of a lot less than what MSRP is I care about ease of use , ergos and capability


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DarkThrottle- Ah, OK, that makes sense :D I`m all about buying quality (my Cyclos are so overbuilt/reliable it`s crazy but I don`t think you want one of those).

I hadn`t heard about the new GG unit going through brushes..gee, I thought they were all brand-new!
 
Yeah I been deep in my internet research and I see a lot of brush replacements even new out the box that make those machines a non option for me...I picked up a cyclo seems kinda heavy. To me lol it’s like the Kirby vacuum of polishers


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DarkThrottle- IME the downside of the Cyclo is its inability to handle certain panel contours. I`ve never found it heavy and it`s even easy to use one-handed. But enough about that ol` monster, you`re gonna do fine with something from Rupes or Flex :D
 
To bad the Flex don`t do a 110v version of their Top Tool 2. It`s like a cyclo on steriods and actually quite many pros uses this polisher. The main advantage is it`s ability to 2×6" polishing pads on it and it`s very powerfull electric motor on 1400W which is like the electric motor on the Flex PE 14-2. And when you look at the technique they are useing while polishing with it it`s impresive to see how they use it with just one pad to polishing something like the sideview mirror or the pad reach under the rails on the roof on SUVs and SW. It`s belt driven with 8mm throw on each pad and the way it`s built the vibrations is even less than on a rotary polisher as the joints are vibrations reducing. And on 2 6" pads working together you are polishing a wide width at one go with it.

When comes to the Flex xfe15 vs Rupes mkIII polishers. The Rupes seems to be haveing a little more torque when it comes to the correction part and on the finishing they are on par. Also seems like the Finisher is less sensitive to get more vibrations when you use different kind of pads on it. While the Rupes is more of a system and other pads like the Rupes ones in the weight they have. The ergonomics is which one that suits you the best between them. And IIRC you can buy a 125mm/5" backing plate to the Flex finisher if you want to. Have not used them my self but it`s what I have heard from the reviews of them. The Flex had some kind of fault on them in the beginning that did do so they bogged downed and stalled much easier than it should be doing. This has been resolved and those that mentioned it to Flex did get a replacement of the polisher. The Rupes mkIII polishers has gotten great reviews of that they are less prone to bogg down and stall than the mkII that was good at maintain the pad rotation from it for being a longthrow polisher.
 
SWETM- IMO the Top Tool would be even more limited than the Cyclo. Great for large panels/vehicles, but those "how to use it for tight spots" examples...nah, I`m not gonna try that. Using one pad on the Cyclo can be problematic, especially if both are wet with product. And again, I just find too many areas that I can`t do no matter what; they *require* a smaller unit, period.

I really wish it weren`t so! I tried and tried to do everything via Cyclo since I simply dislike using my other polishers.
 
Accumulator said:
SWETM- IMO the Top Tool would be even more limited than the Cyclo. Great for large panels/vehicles, but those "how to use it for tight spots" examples...nah, I`m not gonna try that. Using one pad on the Cyclo can be problematic, especially if both are wet with product. And again, I just find too many areas that I can`t do no matter what; they *require* a smaller unit, period.

I really wish it weren`t so! I tried and tried to do everything via Cyclo since I simply dislike using my other polishers.
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The pads go more outside of the polisher than the cyclo and the first Top Tool. I can put up a picture of it and maybe can find a video about it. But the the polisher body is not on the vertical but stands up with the gear house from the body points downward. You have a handle around the body of the polisher. Looks like those bigger wax polishers in how you hold it. Also the the 2 pads rotates inwards so the left clockwise and the right counter clockwise. This makes it to be very easy to control. Then of cause it`s not a polisher that fits into all of the tight places on a vehical it`s still a big polisher. And if you use a little of common sense when you use the 1 pad to polishing with and plan for it. When you look at them who are used to it it`s looks they reach places where you don`t think that they would do. The backing plates on them are 115mm/around 4 1/2" so some use 6" pads and some 5". So it`s not a polisher that all places. But you can cut down on the time on big parts of a vehical and switch to another polisher that suits the other parts. Some like it and some don`t. And the price is higher which also makes a big part if getting it as in Sweden it`s $1100. So certainly not something for me that do a couple of cars a year at most LOL. But think those that could be polishing with 2 GG6 with 6" pads on them in sync at the same time. For light cutting compounding to finishing polish and LSP application. You can get some time saved in a detailing shop.

Sorry for getting off topic.

I still thinking about ad a rotary polisher to the 21mm longthrow polisher and 3" DA mini polisher I have. Thoughts has gone to the Rupes Mille and also to a 15mm longthrow polisher. But the rotary polisher which are light weight seems to be so smooth running. And with the developed pads and polishes it looks like it would suit me. Another thing is that the 8mm free spinning DA polishers is not so common to be used here in Sweden at least by the domestic forum members on the detailing forums here. Entry level polishers who those that don`t are on the forums or social media. When they come in to those many have Cyclo copies LOL. Then they go to a longthrow polisher mostly. Even the VRG3401 is not so popular here either as those goes to with the rotary polishers.
 
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Lol this thing is huge I can’t see any comfortable way of using this but it looks super cool tho


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LOL yeah it don`t looks to much comfortable. But they are not so heavy as think. Then many don`t like how you hold it either. So much of a personal preference as useally. But with the handle that sticks out you get a simualar holding as with a normal polisher. And this is the first Top Tool that has 2×95mm backing plates. The Top Tool 2 you can use even wider pads with. And I know many don`t believe me. But many detailing shops use a rotary polisher to do the cutting step and then goes with the Top Tool 2 to finishing with. This is to work with polishers with least vibrations from them. The 2 pads seems to be holding down on those as there gets a more balance with 2 pads. It`s a lot of technique to use this though. As when you move the polisher with the 2 pads after each other you double the correction. But hey we have a lot of Volvos here with huge flat panels LOL. That can be a part too LOL.
 
SWETM- Thanks, I bet I`m still thinking of the original Top Tool. Sounds like they`ve made advances.

But I still don`t think I`d like that so much...for one thing it seems it`d be hard to be, uhm... uniform. The areas done by the outermost sections of the pads would get different treatment from the areas done by the innermost sections. Not an issue with 4", but even with one-head tools it can be a concern for me when using larger pads (esp. on the Flex 3401 it seems).

[EDIT: maybe I`m just talking myself into not considering alternatives to my beloved Cyclos, which will last a lot longer than I will ;) ]

But yeah...back in the day I cut via rotary and then switched to the Cyclos and it worked OK. Good combo/progression IMO.
And yeah...it seems that a lot of people *just don`t like* the Flex3401. The direction, the "recoil"...I don`t mind it a bit, but others sure do.

DarkThrottle- Heh heh, maybe it`s just me, but there`s no way I can express how much better I like the Cyclo, and I bet that similar Flex unit would be a *LOT* more user-friendly than you`d ever imagine. The looks of such things just say "you won`t like me!" to some people, but I dunno if that`s really how it`d work out.
 
Accumulator: It basicly a developed cyclo polisher. That`s what have been used at least to my knowledge the cutting with rotary polisher and finishing with the cyclo. In the bodyshops and dealerships and also the detailing shops for many years here. For an example when I bought the Kia cee`d SW I have now for about 3 years ago now. They did a one step to correct things I wasn`t happy with. And used a cyclo polisher to do this polishing was what the dealership used. That`s when my journey took on with not wash it in the swirl-o-matic LOL. And I have not polished it since then. What I can see the defects mostly comes from takeing off the snow during the winter. It`s a law to not drive with a build up of snow from when you have parked the car and it`s not a great fine to get. Then my loved nephews has been done some defects on it when leaning against it when dirty. And a few wash and dry marring on some places before I got the hang of it. Maybe sounds bad but are rather satisfied with that it`s not worse. For a DD that sits outside 24/7. Is very interested to see how the claying goes and what it picks up. As it`s have not been clayed and just decon washed and washed and not so regualary as I wanted LOL. Then sadly it had big defects when I bought it so. It was a quick buy where I needed a car and got able to get this at a low price against what they useally sells for. But have been a great experience and don`t be afraid of messing up a great paint condition LOL. Next car I will be looking more on the looks on the car and not just the condition of everything else that I use to do but both how it runs and looks.
 
SWETM- Your conditions over there always sound so challenging!

I figured Cyclo must still sell a lot of their units in Europe since they continue to list the EU voltage ones. They might sell more overseas than they do in the US!
 
Accumulator said:
SWETM- Your conditions over there always sound so challenging!

I figured Cyclo must still sell a lot of their units in Europe since they continue to list the EU voltage ones. They might sell more overseas than they do in the US!
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In some way it`s challenging to be doing a proper maintance. But it`s also how you live and work. And there are not so different if you have the same basis. Think we all have some trouble to get it easy in everyones environment on it`s own ways. But I hate that law LOL. And as always it`s people that doesn`t care if they have a feet or two of snow on the vehicals when they drive off. That gets a big safety issue for the rest of us that drives behind them. And even the truckers did not get this snow off or sometimes big ice blocks that flew off them. So they got in and restricted it with a law and a huge fine. And I have yet to solved this problem to a perfection. Especially when it`s ice closest to the paint and gets lighter or how you explain it on the top layer. This I would want to get off either if it`s a law or not. Since it`s a safety issue for the vehicals that drives behind me if this flying off in big parts. A heated garage if I would have access and afford it would be one of the best options. As it`s useally builds up on the vehical while they are warm when you park them and the snow melts and freezes again until the morning. Have been thinking on a tourch LOL. A good LSP is helpfull so it`s not so hard to get it to release. And get the car fully warm helps you a little when it`s not too cold. Then I have a horse hair brush that I wipe it off as gently as possible. And hope I get some help with the melted snow to push the ice off the paint and picks up the parts I can.

I think that they still sells to the dealership and bodyshops but not as before. The longthrow polisher is takeing more place into this industries. They are quite good at keeping up with newer technology over here. Then the rotary polishers is still the main polisher for cutting. But then you have the ones that does a great job on the finishing with them and it`s still the last step with 3M Ultra Fina LOL. They have been needed to be going with the DA polishers since the asian car brands with their mostly softer paints. Has been selling more and more. They have gone up to the big sellers as Volvo and VW that has been in top for many years here. Just read today that Volvo has been building a new manufacture plant in South Carolina IIRC. And they build all of the modell S60 there. The S90 is build only in China. While the V60 and V90 and the XC modells of those are build in Sweden still. But cool that they have one modell that`s only is build in the US and not anywhere else.

The polishes for rotary polishers has been very much better than over 5 years and older ones. Also the pads has been of a better quality. So on production detailing they are still an option to go with and delivers great results. Just that they get the time to do the finishing polish properly and you don`t get them full of holograms that stands out. Think it`s the hacks out there and the beginners that don`t know how to polishing. That`s gives the rotary polishers a bad reputation. With the knowledge on what to avoid and being carefull with. And also that the very cheap rotary polishers has a lower speed settings. Then they use good polishes and pads. You can get good results from it. But the DAs have really made it to more that DIY the polishing with polishers today. The cheapest and most popualar first time DA polisher here in Sweden is a cyclo copy from an autoparts store chain. To use an AIO and the polishing pads that comes with the polisher. Just to get a clear finish and cleanded paint. Then we have some detailing webshops that has growned bigger and where they maybe gets a better setup of pads and polishes first. Then upgrade to an longthrow polisher or a 8mm free spinning DA polisher. Some still goes with a rotary polisher and finishing with their cyclo copy. The ones that buys the a new original Cyclo polisher is few. They are harder to get for the consumer as they are expensive here. You get a new Rupes or Flex for a little less money here in Sweden.
 
SWETM- Huh, your Swedish perspective is always interesting! I never would`ve thought that a Cyclo-type polisher would be that popular! I`m somehow *not* surprised to hear that the Rupes/Flex are cheaper than the Cyclos.

I would simply have to have a Disposable Car if I had to park outside during Winter there...that required snow removal would mar things up too much for me. When we were teaching, my wife and I had to park *FAR* away from campus, at significant expense too, just to avoid that kind of thing. We have Boar`s Hair Window Brushes (plastic ice scraper on one end), and if you accidentally touch the paint with those (dry) bristles it mars things up, but not as badly as plastic bristles would.
 
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