New paint: What is the typical cure time frame before detailing?

David Fermani- Now that everybody's going to those water-based paints, I guess you and I won't have this topic to :argue about any more :chuckle:
 
Accumulator said:
David Fermani- Now that everybody's going to those water-based paints, I guess you and I won't have this topic to :argue about any more :chuckle:
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Don't forget, the basecoat is the only thing that is waterborne, not the clear coat. That's still solvent based. Let just say that were not quite out of the woods yet..... :)
 
David Fermani- Hmmm...You can see how little I know about this stuff, might be time to educate myself a bit.



Ketch's post had me thinking that the "gotta wait to LSP for the curing to happen" thing was no longer a concern :think:



Eh, if I can wean myself off my good ol' M05 I'll just use Speed or OCW or somesuch. Though I still like to just park 'em until I no longer smell "that's just been painted".



Though now my biggest concern is whether my painter will get things right the first/second/etc. time. Sheesh, everything was *so* dialed-in before :rolleyes:
 
Yeah, the smell thing is something that is hard to argue with in regards to something still going on...Just not 110% certain if and when to seal? (just 105% sure right now :) )
 
David Fermani said:
Yeah, the smell thing is something that is hard to argue with in regards to something still going on...Just not 110% certain if and when to seal? (just 105% sure right now :) )
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Paint manufacturers still use the "three solvent system" for the clearcoats.

Difference today is that those solvents are mixed with water, using an emulsifer, and that is necessary in order to get the VOC's down under 3 lbs per gallon, California requires an even lower VOC in their regulations.

Because of the "catalist" used in clears, the polymer content, etc, the crosslinking process and the use of even low VOC solvents, there will continue to that off gassing that produces the "new paint" odor.

 
Ron Ketcham said:
When "water borne" and HVLP guns first came out and too a good bit even today, they struggle with old habits and a poor air supply to the guns.

Water/moisture filters used in the 70's and 80's just don't cut it, so now a shop has to invest in a high dollar "dryer" system to remove any moisture from their air supply.

Miss one needed maintance of the system and the next paint job will probably not be so good!

The other thing is that all painters are prima donna's and "I been doing this for 15 years, I will mix and such, my way, I am smarter than PPG/DuPont,etc."

Grumpy
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LOL! That's exactly what my father said about the painters at a shop he worked at a few years ago, where they had dedicated painters. :D
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Because of the "catalist" used in clears, the polymer content, etc, the crosslinking process and the use of even low VOC solvents, there will continue to that off gassing that produces the "new paint" odor.
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Any correlation between the smell from the outgassing and "when it's OK to seal"?
 
Accumulator said:
Any correlation between the smell from the outgassing and "when it's OK to seal"?
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OEM, nope, not a problem, our AutoProcessing Center has been doing Toyota's out of the Kentucky plant for the last 8 or 9 years, the cars are a day off the line.

They have probably, by now, put the paint sealant on in excess of 10,000 of them and not one problem reported.

Now, "refinish", that is as I have stated before, depends on the paint system, the booth, etc that the shop uses.

A truly modern, up to date, VOC compliant, major brand of paint, one day is plenty.

For a shade tree shop, error on the side of caution, is my advice, go back to at least 30 days.

:biggrin1:
 
Ron Ketcham- Well, *new* vehicles I can understand (though I can't help but think how Toyotas have a reputation for being softer than I'd want to own)..it's the refinished ones I care about :think:



I still can't help but feel nervous about sealing something that's still exuding that odor :nervous: Guess old habits can indeed die hard.
 
For the most part, Toyota's, middle and upper class vehicles have less orange peel in their clears.

That is due to the "tailing solvent" used in the clearcoat's carrier system.

Means that it has more time to "flow out", reducing the orange peel effect.

When the tailing solvent is modified to allow that, the clear still cures, it just stays a bit less dense for a year or so.

GM went through this with their Cadillacs a few years back,(PPG system, modified at Cadillac's request) and for all I know, may still be exhibiting a "softer" clear for a year or so.

:evil:
 
I was reading some of the forums at Auto Geek about this same topic I started here and they stated that it would be safe to apply Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze on it and follow up with Meguiar's #26 Hi-Tech Liquid Wax. Any thoughts or suggestions about these products being applied now? :pray1:
 
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