New Paint Job - Old Detailer

C

chef

New member
Ok, so the car I am working on for my daughter comes back from the paint shop next week and so I am looking for advice on how to approach this virgin surface one it has sat and finished curing.



Now, technically I don't qualify as a newbie - however in reality the science and technology of the detailing process has changed since the last time I entered a show with a car of my own. I must admit that for the last 15 years or so I have...:o ...sent my cars out to be detailed. Yes I am ashamed, but thanks to this forum I am hoping to be reborn and come back to the fold.



Alright, enough history. Once the new paint has waited and it's time what steps, techniques and products do you all suggest for a medium blue car with brand new paint. It is an 89 VW Cabriolet by the way.



Thanks to all in advance
 
I have been scanning these boards for several weeks now and I have picked up a lot of info and I have seen some very impassioned opinions on a variety of subjects. I can't believe that no one has an opinion about how to aproach a newly painted car.



Please help, the last thing i want to do is screw up @k worth of prep and paint work.



Thanks again.
 
chef- Welcome to Autopia. I gotta sign off (dinner on the table) but I don't want you to feel blown off. This is one worth searching on as we've gone over it in depth just recently. Quick answer- use something like 3M IHG or Meg's #3/#5/#7/#81 until it cures and once it *is* cured just use your regular polishes and LSP on it. It'll be a little softer than factory paint but it won't be a biggie.



You'll get a million opinions as to what to use, but I'd use 1z MP topped with Meg's #16 if it were mine. But wait for two months for it to finish curing. Sorry, gotta go.
 
Welcome to Autopia



Patience is a virtue, as you well know.



Refinish paint requires a 30 day period of curing.



After that, do you have OVERHEAD fluorecsent lighting?

Look (deeply) at that reflection from the WINDOW. Crisp, clear and STRAIGHT, right?



Compare the same type of vision into the paint. Go back to the glass. Is it close?



Well, no, it is not. Now you see the problem.... Show us pictures of that. Then we can, hopefully help.



Jim
 
You can use Meguiar's #80 Speed Glaze on a new paint job. It will remove light to moderate swirls, etc. and it offers just a tad bit of protection to the new finish. Check with the body shop about waxes and sealants. I usually wait a couple of months before applying either just to be sure. Once the paint is cured. I'd do another application of #80 and the apply two coats of Meguiar's NXT -- 12 hours apart. If you want to top with carnauba wax try Meguiar's #16.



I like to stick within one product line. That way I know everything is compatible.



If you are coming back into detailing after a long lay off, pick up a Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher. They can work "magic".



Tom :cool:
 
Accumulator said:
Quick answer- use something like 3M IHG or Meg's #3/#5/#7/#81 until it cures and once it *is* cured just use your regular polishes and LSP on it.
Click to expand...



Thanks, I've never heard of actualy applying anything until the paint cures (on the other hand, we used to barely look hard at a repaint for a couple of months, when I restored cars 20 years ago) is there any danger of applying anything before it cures? I do have the option of keeping it off the road until the paint has cured.



Also, I have read quite a bit about clay on this forum; even the fact that a new car should be worked on with the clay. Is this a step that I should expect to use on the new paint? I definitely plan on doing my wife's car with it this spring, but it has built up road crap.



Thanks
 
Hey Chef,



I am old school like yourself (been detailing for over 30 years), but now do it professionally. I personally would not recommend to clay a new paint job as clay is used to remove road rash/overspray. When my clients buy a new vehicle I recommend a three step which includes Megs #80, topped with Mothers glaze, and then apply either Megs #16 or Mothers phase III paste wax. I personally like appling a glaze on top of a polish only to enhance the shine and give it more depth. You can use any combination which includes a polish, then glaze, followed by a paste wax. Paste wax will out last any liquid wax so that is why I choose paste. Hope this helps
 
where in LI are you?? I also would not clay new paint, let it cure but to protect it for now use a silicone free glaze. Locally you can probably get some 3m hand glaze and if you live close by I may lend some out. Let me know.
 
rlspringer, thanks for the advice; you even more than I understand how much all this has changed. Very technical compared to 25 yrs ago.



I am suprised and pleased to see that so far Megs products seem to be favoured for this application. At least it is a product line i recognise. With what I have seen on the boards I expected a lot of Zaino recomendations. Is Zaino not a good product for a newly painted car, or does it only really make a difference on dark cars?



tguil, thanks for the advice the PC is already ordered.



topnotch, thanks for the offer, I am in Brookvillle, so not far. I might like to try some of your 3M sometime.



Now just so I think I understand: I know not to polish until the paint is completely cured, but I can use a glaze topped with a wax until then? Is that correct? After the paint is completely cured I can then start with a polish to go for the gold? I guess i probably shouldn't let the PC near it until the paint is completely cured as well correct?



Thanks again
 
No wax until fully cured, only glaze. Once it is cured then go for the whole 9 yards. Zaino is not a good idea because it will seal the paint and stop or slow down the curing process, this may in turn lead to paint or clearcoat failure or a hazy poor looking paint job. Hope this helps. Shoot me an email anytime by the way, I am familiar with the Brookville area I have many family and friends there and in Oyster Bay.
 
chef- The whole curing thing relates to two factors, hardness and out-gassing.



Fresh paint is a little soft until it finishes curing. I've even had some that was too soft for the Meg's #80, but that's rare. Just be extra gentle with it for the first few months; this usually isn't a big deal. If you use *mild* polishes you can polish/remove swirls from fresh paint. The painter has often polished (or even wetsanded) the paint before you even picked it up. But there's no harm in just waiting until the curing's all finished.



The out-gassing *is* a big deal. This is the actual "curing". The new paint will emit solvent gases that need to escape for the paint to truly "dry". You don't want to interfere with this process. Products like those I mentioned do *not* interfere with the out-gassing but they still provide a little protection and can also make it look a bit better. Products like wax, sealants, etc. *will* interfere with it, so stick to the stuff I mentioned (Mother's Glaze is also OK and there are a few others but I can't think of them at present).



You can use the PC as long as you're using gentle pads and products. I enjoy using Meg's #5 with the PC and a finishing pad on fresh paint! Virtually foolproof and the results look great. Be sure to use a *very* soft MF to buff it off.
 
I suggest when you are ready to go with a SEALANT instead of a carnauba...

If it is your daughter's car she most likely won't care for the paint like an AUTOPIAN would (washing once a week, QDing everyday, LSPing every 2-4 weeks) so durability would be the best route.
 
Accumulator said:
out-gassing *is* a big deal. This is the actual "curing
Click to expand...



Accumulator - Ok I think I understand. I didn't actually know the science behind the curing, but it makes sense. Years ago when I was doing cars, glazes were not really part of the mix the way they are now so obviosly that is why the gospel about keeping wax away from the new paint. Like I said we literally would cover a car with a soft cloth and leave it alone in a garage if we could. Unless of course we were in a rush to get a car ready for a show.



dpeezy - In general you are right and and I may ned to go that way, but my daughter has actually been helping me and I am trying to impress upon her the importance of taking care of the car she is helping build. My guess is when he goes to college I will be lucky if I can get a good detailing and sealant on the car when she visits though.



As far as using the PC on the new paint I think i'll get a little practice on my while work vans and then my wife's car before I go after the new paint. By then the curing should be done anyway.



Thanks as always
 
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