New Mothers CMX CERAMIC SPRAY COATING

acuRAS82 said:
Wow, very interesting. This info goes against general consensus in these forums (any decent abrasive polish will remove any LSP). I don’t know enough but look forward to further responses here.
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Agreed. I`ve never had an issue removing any sealant or coating. In fact I`m continually amazed at how much clear I can knock down with a lowly GG6 and a good compound. With modern thin paints you can get down to double digits with a few passes.

So yeah, I`d love to have a sealant that was that resistant to an abrasive polish. Might do an amazing job with keeping swirls away.
 
Coleroad said:
In this video at about 14 minutes in.
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Larry has some top notch content, this is a great visual example that Kevin provides and a scary topic for product testing when abrasive polishing may not be enough to guarantee product removal, even on basic polymer products. I`ve thought about running a paint cleanser type like McKee`s 37 Coating Prep Polish prior to polishing on all tests and follow up with Prep-All. I currently only run Prep-All as a pre-panel wipe prior to polishing and then use this as a post-polish wipedown because it has been much more effective in most circumstances compared to the strip-style soap washes, IPA (Gyeon Prep and CarPro Eraser), and definitely against Duplicolor Grease and Wax Remover.

CMX doesn`t seem to show much chemical resistance in my tests, Seal N Shine is definitely one of the most resistant short term non-coating product I`ve tested chemical resistance against, I didn`t get the feeling that CMX survived my testing after going over it with M210. I remember Fusso Coat showing a very strong resistance to multiple heavy Meguiar`s Wash Plus applications so I`m going to see if I can run some extensive polishing tests with Seal N Shine and Fusso Coat and come out with a video that could potentially show evidence for any abrasive resistance.
 
Did anyone else jump on the CMX that was on sale in the Autopia store? Can`t beat the deal with 6 free microfiber towels. Looking forward to trying it out.
 
Loach said:
Larry has some top notch content, this is a great visual example that Kevin provides and a scary topic for product testing when abrasive polishing may not be enough to guarantee product removal, even on basic polymer products. I`ve thought about running a paint cleanser type like McKee`s 37 Coating Prep Polish prior to polishing on all tests and follow up with Prep-All. I currently only run Prep-All as a pre-panel wipe prior to polishing and then use this as a post-polish wipedown because it has been much more effective in most circumstances compared to the strip-style soap washes, IPA (Gyeon Prep and CarPro Eraser), and definitely against Duplicolor Grease and Wax Remover.

CMX doesn`t seem to show much chemical resistance in my tests, Seal N Shine is definitely one of the most resistant short term non-coating product I`ve tested chemical resistance against, I didn`t get the feeling that CMX survived my testing after going over it with M210. I remember Fusso Coat showing a very strong resistance to multiple heavy Meguiar`s Wash Plus applications so I`m going to see if I can run some extensive polishing tests with Seal N Shine and Fusso Coat and come out with a video that could potentially show evidence for any abrasive resistance.
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How long time from application to the chemical resistant testing do you useally wait?

I think that some products need to be haveing a little longer cure time until you attack it with chemicals. Full blown coating is often the recommendation to wait a week after applyied until you first wash it. And I think that it`s more the top hydrophobic surface you could mess with when aggitate it when washing than the chemical it self. I also think that you need to be haveing a little longer cure time with SiO2 toppers/sealants and polymer sealants that crosslinks. Even if it`s not mentioned from the manufactures with a cure time. I don`t think they expect you to do something to the newly applyied LSP in a least a couple of days up till a week. Some products I have used I see far more resistant to chemicals when used as normal and wash after a week or two. For an example I saw someone doing a torture test on Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer. And it was not even standing up to a iron remover or an APC. That`s not my experience at all with it. And that`s after a month with it on and done iron remover and tar remover with no impact at all for me with only BSD as the stand alone LSP.

Also I think that when you aggitate a harsher chemical product it`s gets really aggressive on the hydrophobic properties on LSP. And with a spray on a chemical and let it dwell and rinse off. Most LSP can handle a lot of it. I don`t think that you remove it and rather change the hydrophobic top layer to not bead and sheet water off. This is just what I think is happening and no evidence to back it up with. The problem would be that you don`t get the fair testing if you only do a chemical removal and testing another product on top. You can have bonding issues and also different results vs a real bare paint. So not so easy when doing a lot of different testing on test panels.

I meen like doing a torture test with an iron remover and followed with an APC Optimum Power Clean and then some stronger degreaser product. And you basicly gets the same results from mostly every product that is tested and that`s flat paint. It`s almost impossible to set them apart of which is doing better than the other. So finding a method that you get it to resist the chemicals and aggitations for some more times and then lastly fails or the hydrophobic properties is done. And get it to be so you can get some kind of difference between the products you do test has a more value. Than just make most to fail after 2 steps. Cause I think that it`s more difference between products than being removed so fast.

Don`t get me wrong I like these testing of products a lot. Just that from some youtubers I would like to see how a product behaves and not just how you remove it as some do.

Is your experience with Optimum Power Clean that it`s a LSP killer? He who use it kills almost every LSP he test with this second step.
 
When used on conventional LSPs that are considered durable, OPC and other APCs that I`ve used (especially the old EFHI) were able to compromise them. I just did it with the EFHI the other day and it worked great.

As I`ve posted before, I vary as to whether I strip the existing LSP or just compound/polish through it, just depends on all the variables. (FWIW, I usually do *not* bother stripping, but I`m just doing spot-correction.) I have indeed had (admittedly minor) issues from trying to just cut through a very healthy (conventional) LSP, but IME that`s pretty rare.

I can certainly understand somebody seeing benefit in using the same, known-effective, approach to stripping prior to using abrasives. But I wouldn`t go so far as to say it`s always necessary because IME it simply isn`t.
 
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This is what I have a week after application on the roof of my Mini. Hand washed with DG901. Much better results than the CG Citrus wash, but I`m going to test the CG stuff one more time to make sure it wasn`t user error the first time I applied the CMX.
 

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I haven’t used this product; but I’ve used similar: Permanon & Hydro2. My guess is this stuff is similar or more likely a watered down version of the chemistry in either of those.

My experience is, none of these products last very long and cost per application is very high - especially if you’re doing a complete vehicle. My gut tells me the durability of any of them is more impacted by the surface, quantity used, & the environment it’s exposed to - opposed to any specific product used. They do a decent job on a surface that’s too architecturally complicated to apply a traditional product on.

Other than that; Sonax BSD will significantly outperform this stuff and you can do a whole car with like 10 mls or so.
 
Swanic, maybe we should view these spray-on products as "gateway" ceramics :)

I bought the CMX a couple of months ago and used it for the first time this weekend, we`ve been enduring terrible weather. My son`s friend came over with his 2014 BMW 335i in metallic black. The car is kind of hurting and it sits outside 24/7, parked under a tree. They only worked on the hood and probably spent 2 hours just on de-con followed by polishing with our new knock-off Chinese Rupes. The scratches and other stains on the hood were not going to be easily polished away with Meg`s 105/205 combo, though their efforts did yield a dramatically improved appearance. I asked them to stop as they don`t really comprehend the downside of thinning the clearcoat with endless polishing. However, it all looked pretty decent following those two polishing phases. We then did a quick wipe down with Eraser and applied the CMX. The CMX definitely yielded further improvement in the hood`s appearance. It appeared to fill in some of the remaining light scratches. Gloss was nice, surface was glassy smooth to the touch.

I see this car every once in a while so I can monitor the longevity of this new coating.
 
So 5 weeks since I applied cmx to the Buick. Almost 1,500 miles, a drive to from the dr in K.C. Through a lot of rain. Driven tough the slush and aftermath of the snow storm. The thin atmosphere (= high uv) at over 7000 feet here.

Early on it beaded pretty well. The self cleaning of it was good, gave me a glimpse of what a coating can do. At 5 weeks it`s pretty much dead. Washed it with reset to see if it would rive it some, nope. Using the blower to dry the car was not very productive.


My experiences with lsp`s since moving here. Products I`ve had good success with when living in other states, but not here. Fusso coat, meguiers FF, turtle wax ice sealant. Here none of those gave me more than a month though. For this last fall I tried the FK1000p. Again got about a month. So really this cmx performed not much different. So I would say as easy as it is to apply. I`m ok with its performance compared to other sealants in this environment.


So im now gathering products to try the gloss shop coating. Looking at mf pads for the paint correction. After that I`m just waiting to get consistent temperatures. Still to cold here to be in the temp range for e coating.
 
Coleroad- Man...with the FK1000P from last year still doing great on mine, your experiences sure have me scratching my head! YMMV indeed :eek:
 
Accumulator said:
Coleroad- Man...with the FK1000P from last year still doing great on mine, your experiences sure have me scratching my head! YMMV indeed :eek:
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when I lived in southern Michigan, I had really no issues get decent life out of most lsp`s. Environmental differences really makes for different experience. Down in Houston it wasn`t too much of a difference from Michigan. I think the temperatures made the only real difference. A straight up wax did last but seconds it seemed. Then west Kansas was a much bigger difference. The amount of dirt + winds in the teens most days. Just sandblasted everything. Even when I was stationed at fort Bliss there wasn`t so much dirt in the air on a daily basis. Then at least where I`m at in Colorado sealants just aren`t working for me. Now the camaro that spends most of its life in the garage wears souverän and I only applied it twice last year. It also only got driven 900 miles last year. Here I think it`s the more intense uv rays from the thin atmosphere at this elevation. It would be nice to hear if others living at 7000 and above have the same experience as I do, and what they`ve figured out that works.
 
Coleroad- Well, I`m glad your Camaro is safe in the garage at least :D Heh heh, 900 miles/year is a lot more than most of mine get :o
 
So I tried the Meguiar`s Hybrid Ceramic Wax on my wife`s car this weekend. I`d like to think I am the exact demographic they are looking for. I`m just a guy with a family, a mortgage, a job, 2 daily drivers, and no garage who used to think wax is wax is wax. I followed the instructions for the initial application. Long story short, I was not happy with the results. Here`s where I know I went wrong.
1. Didn`t decontaminate the paint. Pressed for time with waning daylight and distracted by an accident prone 4 year old playing with older kids down the street.
2. Used way too much product. I sprayed the whole car at once a little too liberally.
3. Some of the panels dried before I had a chance to buff them off. I should have done one panel at a time.

All of these factors led to streaking. I kept switching to clean cloths often but it was no use once the product dried. Oh well, the car looks better than it did and the paint does feel pretty slick, save for the obvious contamination. Maybe I`ll wash it again next weekend and put on a maintenance coat per the instructions, which will hopefully even out the finish. I`ll try to remember to report back in a few weeks to let everyone know how it holds up. One thing I liked is that it won`t discolor plastics as long as you wipe it off.
 
live311 said:
So I tried the Meguiar`s Hybrid Ceramic Wax on my wife`s car this weekend. I`d like to think I am the exact demographic they are looking for. I`m just a guy with a family, a mortgage, a job, 2 daily drivers, and no garage who used to think wax is wax is wax. I followed the instructions for the initial application. Long story short, I was not happy with the results. Here`s where I know I went wrong.
1. Didn`t decontaminate the paint. Pressed for time with waning daylight and distracted by an accident prone 4 year old playing with older kids down the street.
2. Used way too much product. I sprayed the whole car at once a little too liberally.
3. Some of the panels dried before I had a chance to buff them off. I should have done one panel at a time.

All of these factors led to streaking. I kept switching to clean cloths often but it was no use once the product dried. Oh well, the car looks better than it did and the paint does feel pretty slick, save for the obvious contamination. Maybe I`ll wash it again next weekend and put on a maintenance coat per the instructions, which will hopefully even out the finish. I`ll try to remember to report back in a few weeks to let everyone know how it holds up. One thing I liked is that it won`t discolor plastics as long as you wipe it off.
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Sorry, can you clarify please. You said you tried Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Wax. Did you mean Mothers CMX? They`re very different animals. B)
 
I am a little late to the party and had a chance to try the new Mothers CMX today. I picked up a bottle on the recent Autopia sale for $14.95 with 6 free towels. I definitely like this product better than Meguiars HCW. I applied with a block microfiber app and allowed it to sit for a few minutes to bond. Wipe off was a breeze with next to no streaking. I used it on glass, trim, and the paint finish. Amazing gloss and great slickness. I didn`t get any other of the "silica dust" or sand particles that others described during use.

I didn`t get the streaking that I did with HCW and it seemed to spread and wipe off easier. I did soak my MF towels in some APC afterwards to be on the safe side.

For a consumer grade product it definitely gets a "A" for ease of use. Time will tell on durability.
 
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